Darren

Starter motor not engaging. The whine is the motor running with no load. Try giving it a tap with a hammer as this sometimes frees them up.

You should also consider Dunsfold Land Rovers in, er, Dunsfold, which isn't very far from you. Masters of pretty much everything Land Rover and great for finding the less common/obscure parts. Not the cheapest in the world, of course, but very handy to have them so close.

Sorry - IME = in my experience.

I've no idea if they operate in NI, but the NFU understand Land Rovers and, IME, are also very competitve.

I did Morocco in '02 for a couple of weeks and the whole trip was a great experience. Getting there (and back) safely is half the challenge! To be honest, if you're wondering about the distance now then London to Cape Ton is going to come as a real shock to the system. I'd have thought a jaunt to Morocco would be considered an ideal shakedown trip before embarking on the big one.

I bought my old Discovery from Keith Gotts in Alton and they then looked after it for me for the next five and a half years. Not the cheapest by any stretch, but I could never fault them. I've stopped using them for servicing now, but only because they're a bit of a trek from where I am and I've found somebody much closer.

To be fair, the lighting regulations are pretty easy to read and understand - it's just that most people don't bother, although it's amazing how many people seem to be experts whenever the legalities of roof lights is mentioned Insurance, on the other hand, I believe is deliberately made inordinately complicated as a tactic for extracting money from people.

If this looks like something you're going to be doing repeatedly then why not just permanntly fit a second fog light? All that then leaves is the headlights, which can be taken care of by beam benders as already mentioned. Doesn't seem all that onerous in the context of driving all the way back to the UK for an MOT in the first place. My parents moved out to Spain last year and took their Mit Pajero with them, still on UK plates. All they've done is fit beam benders (although now they've discovered what pajero means in Spanish they're not driving it much ).

According to the Road Vehicle Lighting Regulations (schedule 11, specifically), the rear fog light must be between 250 and 1000mm above ground level, so in the middle of the roof isn't legal I'm afraid.

It's the compressor for the air suspension just levelling things out as you come to rest and is perfectly normal.

Now that is a nice looking truck. Every time I see a 'commercial' station wagon I'm taken with just how practical they look - the best of both worlds in terms of ability to carry people and 'stuff'. If a Series hard top came my way cheaply enough I'd be very tempted to do this to mine.

Yeah, it's quite new to me. Bought it last September but have only been using it as my daily driver since Christmas. As I say, I am a bit sceptical that the fix was that easy but, as it does seem to have fixed it, I'm not complaining at the moment. If you've already tried adjusting yours without success then I guess it sounds like a different problem. I still think I'd consider a MC replacement before a full clutch, though.

I'd definitely recommend TD5 Alive. Based near Grimsby unfortunately, but I believe will do exchange ECU's.

Ok, got my truck back last night and was told that the master cylinder is fine - in fact it appears to be quite new. The only thing wrong was the adjustment of the pedal where it pushes on the rod inside the MC. I'm not entirely convinced, but I took it for a good long run and it does seem to be working fine. The only problem is having to re-learn how to drive it as the feel of the pedal is so different As it's a very cheap and easy fix, it's worth checking this adjustment on yours before considering a new clutch.

I've swapped from a DII to a 110 station wagon and I can tell you that the latter is noisier, draftier, less comfortable and has a lot less in the way of creature comforts. I love it (because I'm a LR anorak), but I've only been really able to justify it as my wife now has a DII of her own. Perhaps that's something you should consider... The other option, of course, is to prepare your DII in a manner that will shrug off green lane knocks more readily, although scratches will always be an issue.

I had an Allisport standard sized replacement intercooler fitted to my 300tdi Discovery and the difference, eventually, was pretty fantastic. Some years earlier I'd had the pump optimized by Van Aaken, primarily to offset the slightly bigger tyres, roof rack and other weighty goodies that I'd added, which worked quiote well at the time. However, knowing this Allisport still recommended that I could benefit from their own pump re-setting so I let them fit it. They also checked the turbo boost but didn't need to alter that. Initially, the gains didn't seem that impressive but Allisort had warned me that it would take a few hundred miles for the additional airflow to clean out some of the accumulated gunk in the manifold. I was quite sceptical, but they'd been highly recommended so I decided to give it some time and see. In the end, it took closer to 1200 miles but one day it suddenly dawned on me that the truck had a lot more get up and go. Gear changes weren't needed so often and the engine just felt a lot more willing. Smoke was virtually zero, too. I'm not sure about changes to fuel consumption as my daily driving doesn't lend itself to decent MPG figures anyway (lots of short journeys). Unfortunately, I sold it not long after this as I was seduced by a V8 DII (which was a mistake that I'm still kicking myself about - ho hum). Having said all that, for your particular application it would seem to make sense to get the fueling right for the current set-up first before adding anything else. Fueling issues aside, if you do a lot of low speed work then have you considered fitting an electric fan to the intercooler?

It's not something I've done myself, but I know of at least one person who's repaired a damaged keyway with chemical metal without any subsequent problems. Taking it apart in the future may be a bit of an 'issue', of course

Sounds like the water pump. If it was just the thermostat then the heater hoses would still be hot.

Yes.

Ah, that's a shame. Never thought to look this time around.

Right there

Attached is a circuit that shows one possible way of wiring up work lights. This enables the lights to be automatically switched by the reversing lights and independantly switched from the dashboard. Note that this is just a diagram to show the switching and doesn't include niceties such as fuses. You should always protect a circuit with a fuse, the size of which will depend on the load.

In my case, I've found that the bite point travels upwards during the course of 10 - 15 miles driving, but it returns to normal after a few hours standing. I strongly suspect failure of the master cylinder but it's in the garage today so I'll hopefully find out for sure later on.

I've fitted my 110 with Insa Turbo Rangers, which are basically a BFG AT copy, and they seem very good so far. I'm also planning a jaunt down to Spain later in the year and these are my only tyres so they'll be the ones I go on

What about using some anti-luce fasteners? It's not something I've tried myself but I'd think a couple of the smaller 10mm fasteners for each mud-flap would work ok and be very easy to release, which would be important given their proposed location.