steve b

The plug on the left in the last pic appears to have bare copper strand(s) near the white wire? I want to suggest the switch might be from the Iveco parts bin, but that is only based on what I remember hearing years ago somewhere.. Are the colours to an EU/TUV standard of some sort? It may help to decode the loom Steve

Is there enough difference to put a sleeve on the 1UZ bolts to fit the Tdi holes? Is there a dowel or could you add one or two? Another question at the other end , how splash/waterproof is the cambelt cover? Steve

Welcome to the forum, Can you post a pic or two of the wiring to the connectors and the switches? That might help to identify which parts bin the switches came from . The Hazard lights should be fed by a permanent live so in theory would still work with a fault in the indicator switch. Could be a faulty flasher/hazard relay too Steve

Auto, you won't regret it - with the portals and diff locks, tyres, a torquey V8 and suspension travel it really does round it off Just for reference, since you opened your van back doors in my yard I have not looked at Lexus V8's for sale at all , well not much............or V8 TLC's at all........ Steve

@dangerous doug Indeed , that was what I was alluding to . I'm very interested to see the weighbridge number for Sid as weight and excess transmission load are related and that roach is no chunker by any standards Steve

@dangerous doug, do you know what tyres were on that grenaded portal box? Also what terrain ? Rock crawling in the Moab is a lot different to bog hopping in the borders. I think the V8 will work fine for Stephen's truck and for me I think auto would work really well. The constraint is space for the extra length but that could be mitigated by extending the wheelbase a little more if needed maybe? Steve

Maybe, but equally could be driveshaft joint or a locked up VC winding the transmission up on tight corners Steve

glad to help and equally thanks for the parts from your treasure store. The heater and diff are for the 88 re-chassis you saw and the rear bumperettes are for a friend with an FFR 109 that was de-militarised by a previous owner so they will give the back end some originality again Steve

The engine has the correct number and rpm's so it will work.... Good to know you are back home, a long day but hopefully fruitful Steve

An all too brief visit but it's a long drive back with a full van....we all have something to look forward to as Sid grows some power cubes Very good to meet you Stephen , safe trip home and thanks for the parts exchanged. Steve

pm'd you earlier with my mobile number and yes I will be in on Wednesday , it'll be good to meet you Steve

That makes the search even more fun , the risk is buying all the other interesting finds along the way........ Good hunting Steve

Hopefully your ongoing search will be successful in due course Steve

As far as I know all the 4 cyl. diesel starters will interchange and work fine , the only issue would be length clearance using a 2.25d one on a Tdi as the turbo would be in the way. So yes, the Tdi will work on the 2.5TD Steve

The extra holes are not needed on the 300 , the important thing is that it is a Turner seal and not a JLR as they certainly were oversize in recent years and, for Turners, a known fault Steve

After some digging through the pile of transmissions it's here 14D confirms the ratio Oil was good and clean inside and no chips off teeth It has all the parts to mount back onto a 4sp. auto including Hi/Lo linkage , adaptor and spud shaft and lower stiffener plate V8 ready.... SBC on a short LT77 in an 88 2a near completion hiding in a barn nearby and owned by one of my LR buddies. Very tidy build with the standard 2a front panel and headlights and red and yellow knobs in place and functioning as original. Quite the sleeper until it starts!! Steve

I did wonder if you had already checked the pick up pipe. I've always found Turner Engines very helpful when phoning for parts advice , maybe a call to discuss the symptoms would throw fresh light on it? Steve

Not quite correct - the bearing and shaft has clearance when cold to give room for the oil and heat expansion in use. When they do wear it is possible for the blades to hit the housing leaving a shiny witness mark. An unlikely source of your cold start oil pressure as well. Maybe at the next oil change pop the sump off and remove the oil pick up and inspect for any issues Steve

I use M8 x (length to suit shim pack) screws with a pozi or torx pan head on the inside foot well face. All bodywork fasteners are 8.8, and getting the alignment and door gaps right is worth every minute of effort. The sill should not be bolted to BH foot until the door gap on vertical edges are correct - is it the Station Wagon in your pic that we are talking about? Steve

There are several Kiwi members on here - @Paul C and @deep are regular contributors , Paul has a 110 build thread including converting to 4.6 V8 Steve

Welcome to the forum. They are indeed shims and would be fitted once the BH, doors and rear body are fitted and aligned correctly. Steve

Smith & Allan....of course, thanks for putting the link in too. The MTF90 is interesting - there is noticeable drag in cold weather with EP90 until it's warmed up Steve

EP90 ideally, (Allan oils ?) but I have been told GL4 is ok but haven't researched it technically. Steve

There are seat belt hoops available in a low profile (shoulder height) full width hoop or left and right hand for just the outer seats off the shelf. Steve

Welcome to the forum, As above, it sounds like something moving and hitting something else. Fan and cowl would be first check along with engine/box mounts. Steve