steve b

The engine has the correct number and rpm's so it will work.... Good to know you are back home, a long day but hopefully fruitful Steve

An all too brief visit but it's a long drive back with a full van....we all have something to look forward to as Sid grows some power cubes Very good to meet you Stephen , safe trip home and thanks for the parts exchanged. Steve

pm'd you earlier with my mobile number and yes I will be in on Wednesday , it'll be good to meet you Steve

That makes the search even more fun , the risk is buying all the other interesting finds along the way........ Good hunting Steve

Hopefully your ongoing search will be successful in due course Steve

As far as I know all the 4 cyl. diesel starters will interchange and work fine , the only issue would be length clearance using a 2.25d one on a Tdi as the turbo would be in the way. So yes, the Tdi will work on the 2.5TD Steve

The extra holes are not needed on the 300 , the important thing is that it is a Turner seal and not a JLR as they certainly were oversize in recent years and, for Turners, a known fault Steve

After some digging through the pile of transmissions it's here 14D confirms the ratio Oil was good and clean inside and no chips off teeth It has all the parts to mount back onto a 4sp. auto including Hi/Lo linkage , adaptor and spud shaft and lower stiffener plate V8 ready.... SBC on a short LT77 in an 88 2a near completion hiding in a barn nearby and owned by one of my LR buddies. Very tidy build with the standard 2a front panel and headlights and red and yellow knobs in place and functioning as original. Quite the sleeper until it starts!! Steve

I did wonder if you had already checked the pick up pipe. I've always found Turner Engines very helpful when phoning for parts advice , maybe a call to discuss the symptoms would throw fresh light on it? Steve

Not quite correct - the bearing and shaft has clearance when cold to give room for the oil and heat expansion in use. When they do wear it is possible for the blades to hit the housing leaving a shiny witness mark. An unlikely source of your cold start oil pressure as well. Maybe at the next oil change pop the sump off and remove the oil pick up and inspect for any issues Steve

I use M8 x (length to suit shim pack) screws with a pozi or torx pan head on the inside foot well face. All bodywork fasteners are 8.8, and getting the alignment and door gaps right is worth every minute of effort. The sill should not be bolted to BH foot until the door gap on vertical edges are correct - is it the Station Wagon in your pic that we are talking about? Steve

There are several Kiwi members on here - @Paul C and @deep are regular contributors , Paul has a 110 build thread including converting to 4.6 V8 Steve

Welcome to the forum. They are indeed shims and would be fitted once the BH, doors and rear body are fitted and aligned correctly. Steve

Smith & Allan....of course, thanks for putting the link in too. The MTF90 is interesting - there is noticeable drag in cold weather with EP90 until it's warmed up Steve

EP90 ideally, (Allan oils ?) but I have been told GL4 is ok but haven't researched it technically. Steve

There are seat belt hoops available in a low profile (shoulder height) full width hoop or left and right hand for just the outer seats off the shelf. Steve

Welcome to the forum, As above, it sounds like something moving and hitting something else. Fan and cowl would be first check along with engine/box mounts. Steve

Found a ropy pic of an original 300 Defender 90 valve, a bit obscured by the air intake water drain The mount bolt hole is on the lower side, below the foot well fold, Not that it really matters unless originality is the aim. The hole it is currently mounted to is the bonnet cable grommet hole. Steve

The valve is normally mounted on a bracket bolted to the foot well to chassis support. Yours would appear to be a Defender 300Tdi? Steve

A layer of grease and put it together, then wipe off any that comes out of the joint. Steve

Weighbridge to get the facts on springs and shock settings, an upgraded drag link and some reinforcing of existing portal box steering arms and more testing locally if possible, the tyre issue is limited by what is available with a flexible sidewall that will resist rock/debris cuts and is 38-44" diameter and 20" rim now but could be 18" maybe ? ...oh and an oil light/buzzer, temp gauge/level buzzer and tickle the FIP This is a vindication of the effort and dedication to build it once and right approach all through . Now it's time to dial it all in with some fine tuning Steve

Good to hear it's worked out well Steve

S355 iirc? Maybe something like EN9 might be stiffer? Steve

A bent jockey wheel is right at the bottom of the list of issues with that trailer..... Steve

An extremely successful test run overall (ignoring the trailer...) I've enjoyed reading each update on this and the 7s thread, 8 would seem more fitting when a good one turns up but in the meantime there should be some hidden extra bhp in that 200. I have a 1.003TB here so you know the choice is there, no decent V8's though What psi did you have in the tyres? What is the minimum rim diameter to clear the brakes? I did mention Wildfing on the 7s thread in terms of how both trucks make challenging terrain look like a Park drive, I guess Bill is retired now? Steve