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steve b

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Everything posted by steve b

  1. Boiled off through radiant heat and altitude is how I arrived at a heat shield. Thanks for the pic's , by all means keep them coming over time. Very interesting terrain and so good to see a Real Land Rover in it's home environment. Happy trails Steve
  2. That is a very tidy looking job, hope it's sorted and I'm not in the least envious that you are in the mountains around La Paz working a V8 If you can post some pic's of your "day to day" scenery I for one would enjoy them. Steve
  3. A piece of wood big enough to cover the inlet on the manifold works....so does the base of the battery on my rattle gun - wasn't prepared last time it happened Steve
  4. If you bypass wire it , connect a wire to the starter solenoid terminal and touch to battery live- either at the battery or a shorter wire to touch the main live starter post Steve
  5. If that thing doesn't work then it's a live to the FIP solenoid and a wire from the starter solenoid to touch on the battery live to start it (with main earth and live connected correctly) I usually remove the intercooler to intake pipework to avoid any self fuelling disasters with a cold start and a stuck open FIP and also have something to block the inlet manifold should it rev and not turn off on the solenoid. It sounds over the top but better to be ready than have a long lay up cold start go bad..... I know from experience and it's not fun Steve
  6. Got to be worth a try. Not sure how easy it would be to source locally but a heat sensitive sticker on the slave cylinder will record highest temperature Steve
  7. Not just body trollies but tracks into the paint booth. Clearly going to be a high quality renovation and as others have said it will be interesting to see it develop and how some of it is done. You must be pretty excited Nick, a very original RRC to start with too. Steve
  8. Might I suggest your twin downpipes directly below the slave may be affecting things? A quick bodge up heat shield cover might be worth a test ? Just a thought. Steve
  9. The centre of the driven plate letting go is a pretty normal failure mode for Tdi clutches from my experience, often around 100k miles or within 10 years. Good result though, much simpler and cheaper than gearbox issues. Steve
  10. Also, the slave cylinder is only so big....one or two refills of the reservoir would take the piston to the end of the travel ( they do have a circlip?) or out of the cylinder. Does it only lose fluid with use or will it drop when still for a period? This is a head scratcher for sure, but I would want to eliminate everything else before splitting the engine and box. Steve
  11. Does the pedal action change during the fluid level drop? Are you using DOT4 fluid? No fluid showing at the bellhousing drain? Steve
  12. That's it . They can unwind with vibration so a cable tie round the outer behind the adjuster helps Steve
  13. A bit more detail would be helpful, no names needed just BH#1, BH#2 and BH#3. I've posted on here before asking for real feedback on pattern BH quality but never really had any detailed responses. It's such a critical body part in the build up sequence so any factual info will be useful to anyone considering one. Steve
  14. Straight bolt under job. Technically not legal here in UK but your rules may be different. Steve
  15. I would say so, being steel. Steve
  16. Looks like a yacht sail/boom rope capstan. Steve
  17. The main thing is, whether drilled/dimpled/grooved or slotted they only really work fully when the callipers are painted the right colour.... Steve
  18. Not taken the wrong way at all , just trying to explain my point, keyboards aren't the easiest way of conversing! The set up Paul C posted is a further level of upgrade to your discs so not really comparable- @Paul C , is that a full LOF performance kit? I don't recall ever seeing vented rears before on a Defender. Re: the noise, I'd be looking at the engine - maybe run it up the road with the turbo disconnected first to see what difference there is, then a very short run with the drive belt off to eliminate belt or any of the items. With no waterpump running it would need to be done with care. From cold would help. Steve
  19. The whole point of putting spiral grooves in the disc face is to throw water/mud out to the edge of the disc and off, just like a tractor tyre's directional tread blades. Of course the brakes still function whichever way the discs are fitted but my point is still correct and I stand by it. Steve
  20. the dimpled and grooved disc is handed ....and that is on the wrong side. As for the noise, from your description it appears more engine related than transmission. How are the viscous fan hub / drive belt and tensioner / water pump etc? Steve
  21. This is open to all Series and 90/110/130 Defender Land Rovers Shaping up to be a fun little event Steve
  22. Sealey model LED1001 - they last well and are bright. Mains charge adaptor or USB Steve
  23. The Series 2 Club have a gathering at Clare Park on June 18th with optional green lane run as well. I understand you have to be a member and pre-book to attend as a event entry. Event organiser is Chris Mortimer - contact through the S2 club Steve
  24. That looks good in that layout and with what appears to be a galv. chassis Steve
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