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steve b

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Everything posted by steve b

  1. Getting very close to the finish line now Stephen, the anticipation must be immense Steve
  2. That has come out very well, your process is noted for the future Steve
  3. I thought you had done that, might be worth pulling the rear off and checking it, also the HB shoes while you're there just to be sure they are retained and seated properly. Have you removed the drive belt and checked the PAS pump pulley shaft for end float and bearing noise? Steve
  4. A firm favourite with many LR electrical anomalies... Good fishing! Steve
  5. TTT is asking about the cam follower locator bolts along the block just below the head joint. Put new copper washers on and torque up and wire should be fine. Checking the valve clearance is also a good idea on a new to you Series. Steve
  6. I have heard of concrete cleaner used to clean tanks but boiling water and washing machine powder might be better if you're doing it manually ? The industrial steam cleaner would be my choice I think, with degreaser dosing Steve
  7. An industrial steam cleaner/vapour blaster would probably get rid of most of it. I can say one thing - the only new ones available are pattern and the quality is sub standard to say the least - the last pair I had 12 months ago would not accept the filler filter/tube and the original caps would not tighten or seal. I ended up cutting the entire top out of both old ones and welding to the new tanks All the deposits in yours and rust is a result of SVO sitting in it long term Steve
  8. Thinking about it, isn't the NAS 90 Anniversary model a 3.9 ? Steve
  9. The loom would benefit from a strategic multiplug just there but pulling it out attached is a chance to check for chafing (more powder please Matron) along the clipped section on the inner arch to wing. Steve
  10. There is a wiring earth bolted to the inner wing to wing support plate at the front edge and the wiring loom clips along that same inner guard to wing support. Easiest done with the arch extension off . Also an M6 on the rear bottom edge for the wing stay/siil trim. They are a bit of an awkward lump once loose but it's by far the best way to access the BH footwell area and a chance to check the post and inject some cavity wax in there. New floor screws and plastic inserts are handy to have for easy finishing off if the whole footwell is being cut out, along with the correct M8 screws for the BH support bracket. Steve
  11. Yep, just make sure any stickers inside the tyres are removed and the adhesive is cleaned off (brake cleaner works) as they will fret/interact with the tube. Steve
  12. 235/85-16 will work on a 5.5" steel and up to a 7.5" wide in other styles Steve
  13. I'm pretty sure all Modular style rims are tubeless. How big are the tyres you have? Steve
  14. After market steel wheels , these on eblag now £90... Steve
  15. Buy a set of cheap modulars the right width for the tyres and swap them. Peace of mind and safe use restored, allowing more time to move the project on? Steve
  16. Excellent news Simon, and as you say, saved for posterity Please do keep us all informed of progress, always good to see another coming back to life - enjoy the process. Steve
  17. Wheelspacers... Not much else to say really apart from no harm done thank goodness Steve
  18. Yep , mark it up as another senior moment........... I should know, I've got 15 of them Steve
  19. Those 1 ton replica's are 8" wide too - originals are 7.5" . Nakatenanga (sp?) offer similar I think? That said , Daan's banded steels look equally tidy Steve
  20. I predict the only thing that will stop Sid is running out of diesel through driving the site from gates open to gates closing two days in a row. I hope there are plenty of people to film him in action. Steve
  21. "behaving Off Brand" sort of sums up the lowering of the Land Rover profile into history. As Geoff says , bang on. Steve
  22. Great pic's Don, I wouldn't call them off topic This one made me look twice Steve
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