KKMobile

No the pipes are different

http://www.firstfour.co.uk/steering-guards/shadow-defender-steering-guard-right-hand-drive-815535-181333-445618.php

Got one of these myself! Had it for 2 years now. Does exactly what it should do & no rust showing through yet

Have a look at the goldfish winches.

Nice vids!! Showing some very nice driving

Spoke to him & he has a set but wants to keep them as spare set.

Think one of my friends had them on his truck?? before he uprated them for gkn hardened. Will call him tomorrow to see if he still has them & let you know!

I don't have parts book! so don't know the numbers! when i changed my front axle running parts from 10 spline to 24 spline. This is when i found out about the different cv's and what i needed to change. As i also had the wide hub end caps. Just trying to pass on some info to help you!! Like i have said before hope this helps!!

defo looks like the wide one's!! which will have the 23 spline cv's ( stronger ones)

All the 32 spline cv's are 8 1/2 inches long. the 23 spline which are the stronger are 9 1/2 inches. If you have the wide end flanges on the outside of the hub then you have the 23 spline. if you have the later thinner flanges then you will have the 32 spline cv's But if yours look like this then the above is wrong: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/LAND-ROVER-DISCOVERY-FRONT-N-S-HALF-SHAFT-CV-JOINT-10-/120451355948?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1c0b75d52c Hope this helps??

As Disco Ron said the ratios will be the same! The front brakes are normally double feed to the calippers on the Disco's. A friend did convert there's to single but can't remember what he done!! so it is possible. The brake line feed for the rear axle will need to be removed from the axle & turned 180 digrees to take your rear feed as the ones on the disco face the opposite way to the 90's.

If i remember correctly the cv's you have are 8 1/2 inches long total end to end?? if you get the 10 spline / 23 spline ones the cv's for them are 9 1/2 inches long?? therefore you would have to replace the stub axles to take the longer cv's & replace hub assembly?? i know i had to on mine when i went from 10 / 23 to the later type 24 / 32's. Just a thought would it not be cheaper to get a complete axle second hand?? think i paid about £120 for one on my old Disco from the breakers all swivels were good etc etc??

Might be of interest / something to keep an eye on?? http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=56256

I would get it checked asap!! you don't want it to start running on it's own oil!!!! I had a 200tdi Disco engine in my defender when i first bought it! It started ok & run with no funny noises. Had it on the road less than a week, driving home after having some work done on it & it just stopped for no reason, but would turn over and try to run then stall. After investigation under the bonnet i noticed while trying to start the air pipe from intercooler to engine was sucking in. I.E no air. disconnected the pipe to find it had a fair bit of iol in it. The car started with pipe removed! got it home Cleaned / flushed all pipework & intercooler all ok. Then 3 days later just going out for a run it stalled again when approaching a roundabout with thick black / blue smoke comming from exhaust & raised air intake, would'nt start for love nor money even after diconecting the pipe i had done before. Got it towed home & removed head only to find bottom end sh@gged!! It had pressurised the sump forcing the oil up into air system etc. Not saying this is the same as yours!! As i'm not a trained mechanic with cert's etc. But something to beware of as you don't want oil getting in there!!

Think you'll find the pas pumps are different!! As for the oil cooler pipes they had a different connection where they bolt onto the engine side & the connections to the rad are different! luckely the bloke i bought the engine from told me to take the whole motor so if there was any pipework that needed changing i had it! & return motor when finished. The bit that connects the oil pipes to the side of the rad had to be changed to take the defender pipework. didn't take the rad from his car as someone else wanted it. Yes the exhaust was different as well. I sleeved mine from the down pipe to the old exhaust with metal flexi pipe intil i got new one made up on motor.

A friend of mine is running the same tyres & constantly broke things!! Diffs shafts etc. He is gently with it but does like to do extreme things!! As above try & see what happens!! Just a word of warning though!! when my friend measured his tyres and they measured at 36.5's although they say 35's on the tyre! He has ripped the pop rivets from the rear tub where tyre caught on the inside of wheel arch. If your running 1.222 trans box you'll probably end up changing to a lower ratio box. Good luck with them if you go for it as they are a nice tyre

I changed mine from a Disco lump back to a Defender one. All the loom was the same but i had to change power steering pipes & oil cooler as they had different fitting on the end of the pipes. Hope this is of help??

That don't look good Got some new Ashcroft flanges never fitted to fit a 110 if your interested?? when your sourcing parts?? Kev

Not sure what size it is you want, But if you give driveline a call with measurement from flange to flange he will make one for you

He's already fitted new bearings

A freind of mine uses them & says they work! Another freind tried the powder & it didn't.

Sounds like your having fun John!! I have a spare one here if you want to try it?? But it leaks a bit!! have kept it just as a spare. your welcome to try it & see if it makes any difference?? You have my number give me a call if you need it & i'll leave it out for you somewhere as i'm off out soon

Or even a diesel heater?? They are 12v & have a thermostat. I beleive you can set a timer on them aswell. If you put the air pipe into an insulated container in the car, you could play & it will heat the container from the timer?? Don't think they use alot of juice (battery or fuel)?? Holyzues had one but he's just sold it on. I am sure if you send him a pm he can confirm / answer some questions on this matter??

Could you not make something up that your fluid's can be held in with a compartment at the bottom to take a 12v coffee warmer thing?? Like the one's you can get from camping / caravan shops? They plug into the cigarette lighter and you just put them into a cup. leace for a while & then hot drink. Don't think they actually bring to the boil? just heat to drinking temp?? You could warm it as you play?? Just a thought! Might be of some help??

Depends on what tubes you are getting / size!! If you are fitting 32inch upwards go for an agricultural (air / water) valved tube. If you gave the new type rim with the small valve hole you will have to drill it to a 16mm hole to allow for the bigger tube valve system. When you remove the insert from the valve it has a larger hole for filling with water. in your case dynabeads!! then refit insert & top up to desired pressure. If your fitting the skinnier type valve'd tube then take to the nearest tyre shop slice a hole in tube with say a penknife & fill with dynabeads then get them to fix a patch over the hole to seal it! This will save you time & aggrivation from the beads backing up in valve while trying to pour in with the filler funel you get with the beads. I'm in the tyre trade & have done a few now!! the first guy that asked me to do them lost the will to live after it took him a hour & half to pour beads into one wheel!!!!! Hope this helps??