KKMobile

What he said!!!!!!!!!!! Mine's not a td5. But just changed clutch etc in mine & fitted Veleo. got the 130 clutch plate as it's harder wearing other than that everything else was the same on the 200tdi i have. Paid £116 for the lot inc delivery.

You wouldn't on a 110. as the rear props longer. I had no issues on my disco either.Then i got my 90 that was standard originaly!! After fitting 2 inch lift i got terrible vibrations, contacted local landrover garage who said new prop needed wouldn't bother with wide angle as never had a problem!! even after i had questioned this with them as a few guys from my local club had, had the same problems & told me i would need a wide angle prop for the rear. Bought a new one from garage on there recommendation & on the understanding if it didn't cure the problem i could return it & get refund!! It never made a difference!! Ordered new one's from a company called "Driveline" (i have there number if you want it??) Very helpfull bloke on the phone. He asked for the measurements from flange of tansfer box to flange on diff, He done all the working out!! The price he quoted was the cheapest and he contacted me the following day to take payment & delivery address, as he had made them already, They were with me by 9am the following day & have never had a problem since!! That was 2 years ago & i've not had to replace any uj's!! The 90 is road legal & does go on pay & play days, Also compete's in events to!! Hope this helps you sort your problem??

Should be able to tell from looking at the outer flange of shafts!! Rears: Solid flat face will be 24 spline 2 part flange (the ones with the rubber cap) will be 10 slpine solid large dome'd flange 10 spline Fronts: Slim 2 part flange 24 spline Fat 2 part flange (with large rubber cap) 10 spline Solid large dome'd 10 spline

Is the brake pedal spongy?? If so it's probably the rear wheel bearing rumbling?? Need adjusting or replacing. Then your brakes will be back to normal to.

I would say if all the measurements are the same go for it??

Drain it!!!! This could happen if it starts to run on it's own oil!! Then you will need a new engine

Gave mine a quick rub down & sprayed with tough black paint. Instantly looked better & not touched for about a year now.

have you checked uj's on steering column ??? mine weresiezed when i first got it made the steering hard & wouldn't centre. checked all the usuals but that. ended up doing the bearing in the bottom of the column before i found out whatit was!!

Yea that was the one i found.

Thats been on flea bay before!!! Wonder why it didn't sell?????

Cheers for the advice guys!! on recomendation i have got some Has anyone got any pics of how to fit them(the best way) into ear drfenders?? Have had a search through the old posts & found one with some pics but they were mounted on the outside! thought you could fit them inside?? Any pointers?????

My rear trailing arm bushes came a tad loose one day & had the same problem as what you have described!! replaced rear bushes & no more problems

Think this has been posted as a problem before and it was a simple case of cutting the inner arch to fit round??

Might sound stupid but have you checked your bearings???????? If there's alot of play in them that will not help!!!!(ie soft pedal & having to double pump)

What he said

Just had similar noise appear over the weekend. Checked all the uj's they were fine so gave the a grease while i was there. Then jacked the up the rear to find rear wheel bearings had loads of play in them. Replaced them both for new ones today & noise has gone completly. On inspecting as removing the nsr hub from stub axle the inside of the disc had started to rub on the face of the stub thus causing the noise. bearing was totally shot! Might be worth checking yours before doing diff??

Welcome to the nut HOUSE!! Let the fun biggin!! Changing the bushes arn't a major job just a bit time consuming if they are the original ones. I found that wd40 & large hammer with the use of some lorry impact sockets and a good strong vice does the trick and when refitting use the 2 part one much easier!! As for the a frame ball joint remove the 2 bolts & cut the lugs of then same as above for removal then find someone with a press for refitting! Hope this helps??

I fitted one of these when i done mine. old one of and new one one in about 2 & 1/2 hrs http://www.devon4x4.com/products_a/p2219c43/0/d44-lowline-rear-cross-member-with-winch-mount.html

As i'm a tyre fitter!! I would just like to add my 2 pence worth! I have fitted beads for a friend who run's them in a set of large fedima's & they work fine for him! he fitted the beads in 2 of them himself & it took him ages (about 1&1/2 hrs) i think he said! He asked me if i could fit the others as he was loosing the will to live and they were done in about 20 mins. the best way to fit them is to take your motor along to a fitter ask him to strip the wheels down & make a hole in the tube & pour the amount you want fitted into the tube, Then repair hole with a patch & rebiuld wheel & tyre. If you are using agricultural tubes with the air water valve system as i have supplied a few competition people with you can pour them straight into the wider part of the valve when it's flat of course!! On the other hand i run Mach 5's with insa'a / a friend run's Mach 5's with external beadlock's with 35 inch Simex / another with Wella? & external beadlock & 33 inch Silverstone's / another with Modular rims & 37 inch Maxxis, and i have balanced all these with stick on weight's to the inside of the rim. No one get's any problem's but the larger ones do take a bit or weight!! The worst being about 930 grams to balance as the tyre mould was all over the place & that tyre was a Maxxis. Hope you get it sorted!! Or if you want any advise just send me a PM

Dismantle and check the length of the cv's the early ones seem to be 9&1/2 inch and the later one's are 8&1/2. The other way to check is the splines where the shaft meet's the cv. If there were 23 spline then they will probably be 9&1/2 inch cv's and if the new ones are 32 spline then there the 8&1/2 inch cv's. If you changed to the later ones but have used the original stab's that will be the problem!! new cv's are not long enough for the stub's! In which case you will need to replace the to the hub assembly to match the later stub's. I had the same problem when changing the front end to 24 spline from 10's. Luckily i had an old Disco 1 front axle already stripped down an used the parts from that. Hope this help's??

Yes a 200tdi Disco axle will fit straight on!

Mine been wired like this for 2 years now with no problems!! even left for 4 weeks at a time without starting!(in extreme cases)

I know but you never know unless you ask!!

Cheers for the heads up guys!! Will have to wait a while as just done a fortune!! Unless you know of second hand pair up for grabs?? incase anyone updating to the new ones??? Cheers Kev