miketomcat

Yeah no problem but it is likely to be a long while yet. Mike

There is a tread insert that the stud goes into but be careful not to loosen it when you remove the stud. Standard ones are coated in zinc passifate (silvery gold sheen) this should last 5-10 years. Coating them with grease or copper slip when fitting will increase longevity. Mike

I will say it is possible to do it on a budget both myself and a friend have build tomcats for around £12k (believe me that's cheap for a tomcat they normally run to £25k+). My current build is an ibex which should come in around £15k (again normally £30k+ for my wheel base). But to build "cheaply" you either sacrifice quality or it will take a vast amount of time. In my case I don't refurb parts I'll fix anything that needs it and paint them but I simply cannot afford to strip and rebuild every component. That's not to say I'm sacrificing quality but I won't have a brand new car at the end I will have something that looks new but will need regular maintenance to keep it reliable. If I had the money I would build with new or nearly new parts. As a friend once said of me "you wanted an ibex but couldn't afford one so your building one instead". Mike

Land rover use GKN. Mike

Probably something like nitrile sheet 1-2mm thick but will check it's suitable with a rubber dealer. Do your wheels have a bolt on rim like mine or do yours just have a flat plate bolted on the outside. If the latter I believe tubes are the only way. Mike

I had a snapped one on mine so got a length of M10 stainless stud bar and turned it down (read filed down whilst in a pillar drill. I've bought a lathe since) on one end then ran a die down it to give me about 10mm of M8 thread. The M8 end goes up through the hole in the bottom and locates in the thread under the window runner. Leaving the M10 section hanging out of the bottom to go down through the top of the door. Mike

Mine have sealant on the rim bolt face, I may change to rubber gaskets later. If yours aren't the same as mine (pictured further up) I believe you need tubes. Mike

Read lots in members vehicles and special projects there are numerous rebuilds and projects. More importantly post up what you plan to do there are people on here who can advise on every aspect and believe me the help is invaluable. Mike

I had a motorbike luggage net on the tomcat it's smaller than the halfords type and fitted nicely on the bonnet. Mike

Glad you got it sorted in the end. Mike

I would say starter but having had a similar problem on 45 (200tdi) that turned out to be the ignition switch I would say you'll be double checking all the above. Start with the easy bits connections then work up to the expensive bits. Mike

If I remember correctly the 300tdi defender's front prop is almost full closed in normal running position. The splines move far less than you expect on normal set up I can't remember but I think it's something like 10-15mm going down and 0-4mm going up. Personally I would separate, clean, grease evenly then put it back together I would then grease it through the nipple then put it back on and grease it again. I wouldn't worry about it to much you clearly look after your truck more than most do so it will wear slowly. Mike

No question drill the nut and spilt it off the stud then replace both. Mike

Yes they should with the possible exception of puma front prop. I believe these don't have splines they have something similar to a cv joint (balls in grooves) so I was told. Though just because it should doesn't mean it will. Mike

Yes you will need to take the heater out completely. Air shouldn't be a problem if the hoses are on the right way round ie fill the matrix from the bottom. But failing that I just connect it all up but leave the hose clips loose run the engine up bleed the air from both pipes one at a time then tighten the clips. Mike

You should be able to cut both dash and bulkhead in situ I would use an airsaw/bodysaw or chain drill it and file/flap wheel it smooth. Mike

This is not a land rover bulkhead but the hole for the heater is the same. The square hole should line up with the heater out let. The tear drop you describe would of been the hole for the steering column on latter bulkheads this hole is square to make it easier to change from right to left hand drive. Mike

As above obviously engine mounts change and really early ones have the right hand rear shock pointing backwards but that's only holes. Yes the station wagon body cross member is bolt on. Mike

It was a lot of fun but it was also my only/every day car at the time. Winter was chilly. Mike

I put this through the passenger vehicle sva in around 06. And I'm currently building this to pass iva in a year or so. Have a read through the iva manual you clearly haven't. You will see it's not that hard to meet the regs with a little thought. Mike

To be honest I was expecting a flap issue but those were the only other things I could think of. Mike

Check the motor is wired the right way round it could be sucking instead of blowing or full of mud easy to check by removing the cowl from under the wing then you can see the fan blades through the opening. Mike

If I remember correctly you won't be able to change it for the likes of congestion charge or commercial rate tolls etc as they closed that loop hole a while ago. Mike

I'm not sure for iva as I haven't got there yet but when I did sva your pass certificate was handed over to the DVLA when you go to register your car (you could not get a registration without it) they then issued a registration number and v5. If the vehicle is a kit car the manufacturer will no longer be land rover. I don't know how a v5 is worded for a hybrid. Mike

Old git.... Oh no wait so am I