miketomcat

Getting the buggers moving is normally want causes the problems. Mike

I can't take all the credit for design, the wife has played a major part in designing it. Many hours have been spent in front of her computer (I'm not safe to own a computer) hashing out the best layout and use of space. Then changing it all again because the box was the wrong size, hence the rear extension. The first trailer didn't work with wheel position and the second trailer ment the layout had to switch round again. A lot of people (our neighbours included ) couldn't grasp how this seemingly random pile of bits were going to become anything let alone a caravan. But we had a clear vision of how we wanted it to look and work, I think we've nailed the look hopefully it will work as well though we won't know this until the kitchen and shower areas are done. Mike

I'm planning to cut the rear cross member of the trailer off in line with the box and in half right the way across to tidy the back up a bit. I don't want to commit to that till I'm sure I don't need it for rear legs. Mike

Plywood infill fitted and bunk bases have first coat of varnish then I ran out of varnish. And we may of taken it for a test tow. Tows nicely even at a bit of speed. Some minor niggles to sort before Thursday but nothing that will stop us going. Productive weekend. Mike

Wheel carrier fitted. Due to the plan to use it next weekend I need to get a lid over the kitchen area so we don't fall down there in the middle of the night. I still had a little bit of insulated panel left so figured this will do nicely. Especially as we want to be able to leave the kitchen area open in winter but not loose heat from the rest of the trailer. Just need a plywood infill between the panel and bunk top not sure if there's room to insulate the infill yet. Mike

Having had a persistent oil leak from the nearside hub seal, I figured I better fix it before towing the trailer to Silverstone. I replaced the hub seal before seven sisters hoping that would cure it but alas no. So hub off mass clean up, new stub axle including new seal, bearing etc in the back and new hub seal. Fingers crossed I've sorted it this time. On top of this my radiator sprang a leak yesterday (I don't seem to have much luck with Ali radiator's) so broke out the rad @Stellaghost generously donated last time (didn't use it last time due to fitting clash which I've since sorted). Seeing as my dad popped round to give me a hand I pressed him into service switching the rad. Hopefully that's that sorted too. Mike

Lt77 takes ATF to don't forget. Mike

The insulated panels are now in position under the bed these will support the frame and insulate the kitchen area from the interior. I want to mount the spare wheel over the drawbar, since the wheels are lr stud pattern and I have two lr spare wheel carriers one is the stud type the other is the pressed steel type. The trailer wheels are quite a bit narrower so I either have a big gap behind the wheel or I cut the carrier down. The stud type is definitely the easiest one to cut down. I cut the welds on the back which allowed me to slide the studs back through the plate by 60mm. I re-welded the outside, cut the excess off and welded the other side to. A drop of paint and it's ready to fit. Mike

Where there's a will there's a Stephen. 🫣 I love this. Mike

I'd lay money it's a scam. Please send deposit.......etc Mike

It's a boat building term sorry. Some call it rebate some call it rabbet it mostly depends on how old you are or the guy that taught you was. Mike

Took the boards for the double bed to work so I could trim one down and extend all of them width ways. I've machined a rabbet in them to create a halving joint, I then glued it up with epoxy. None of my clamps are long enough so weighted them down. Also glassed up the foamed joint on the insulated panels. Mike

Not even close. It does look like we'll have beds for Silverstone though. Got two of the blinds fitted last night and this morning I foam filled the channel in two of the insulated panels (left by the joint of another panel that I removed) that I'm going to use to section off the kitchen area inside. Trim back and glass tonight. Mike

Your alternator is likely to be 60-100 amps so that's a theoretical start point. Even if you add up all the current fuses on the wire you have in mind I suspect you'll go above 50 amps. Fridge freezer did a cable calc that might help. https://fuddymuckers.co.uk/tools/cablecalc.html Mike

Both @TSD and @FridgeFreezer run overdrives. I'm fairly sure Dave is on his second and had stripped one when it failed though I'm not sure what make any of theirs are. Mike

Mark out the window position and drill the four corners. Cut between them with a jigsaw and you have.... Test fit the window, then apply copious amounts of sikaflex. Fit and screw on inner frame. Repeat three times. Mike

I've got some goldspar varnish for the interior wood work it's satin finish and goes on really nicely. Not the cheapest but we use it at work so I know it's good. The toilet area will have thin fibreglass panels to create essentially a wet room. Mike

Extra stiffening under the bunks to stop the ply moving so much. Again some more re-purposed Ali. Also sorted a lid for the seat. Cleaned up the corner post so there's no sharp edge to catch you toe or knee on. Mike

Check the bulb in the ignition light if that's blown the exciter wire has no voltage so doesn't wake the alternator up. You should be seeing up round 14v when running. Mike

I've been a bit slack this week due to a slight run on the injury side of things. I've managed to burn the entire outside of my lower left leg (ankle to knee). Some extractor dust at work caught and flash burned, unfortunately my leg was in the way. So after some 1st aid, a trip to both A&E and then the doctor's it's slowed me down a little. It's all dressed and hopefully on the mend. Meanwhile I've got the bunk frames in. Tonight I've got the bunk bases in place. The aluminium is more recycled metalwork from the box originally and the bases are 12mm birch ply. Upper will be fixed, lower will be removable. Mike

I looked at those when looking for our trailer but they were to short and or narrow. Mike

The cradles at work move surprisingly easily on castors even with 6ton on boat on them. The trick is largest wheels you can use, one of ours has around 4" castors which will stop on a small stone. The others have about 8" castors and they are much better. I can move them one end at a time on my only, as long as the wheel is pointing the right way. If not a nudge with a pole to get it started is all that's needed. Mike

Great trip, and one I still need to do. It looks much better on the Mach 5's. Mike

With those you'd need to move the range not the steel. Mike

This how I was holding it unfortunately I didn't get my finger out of the way quick enough as it came full circle. Mike