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miketomcat

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Everything posted by miketomcat

  1. The 90 and 110 are near enough the same from 83 to puma it's just bracket difference's and engine/gearbox configuration. So most mid and tail will fit as in shape you just may need to change or mod brackets to hang it. The front is where it all gets tricky, they changed the diameter several times and the position of the turbo/exhaust manifold outlet moved in the engine bay. Mike
  2. And some more sanding. But got the wife involved today. Honest I was sanding too. Then for some...... Paint. Mike
  3. In short no. Something like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/landrover-defender-90-td5-exhaust-system-middle-back-inc-fitting-kit-98-06-/255571676526?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p4429486.m46890.l6249&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0 You will need a bit of the front pipe to connect to the SP down pipe. But it will depend on what you do for a down pipe. Mike
  4. Definitely bring the other springs, easy swap. There's always plenty of help on hand so most things can be addressed. Mike
  5. Enough to get it to spray nicely to thick it'll spit and have a patchy pattern, if your only spraying your chassis your not worried about a bit of orange peel, less thinners equals less flow out but more paint. More thinners allows it to flow giving a better finish but less thickness. Mike
  6. Yes it is, it's part of the thermostat bypass system. @Stellaghost you might want to change that to a loop of hose. Mike
  7. Just some food for thought this is my free spool on the ibex. The rod exits through the front of the seat box and is just bent 90° to allow it to be gripped. Mike
  8. From memory yours is a 200tdi, if so I've never needed to remove the radiator bung as the bleed pipe is quite high so it's always bled up fine. Mike
  9. In my opinion the Steve parker exhaust down pipe is worth every penny. We have one on our 110 and had one on the 90 before that. It's much nicer than the copies, it just fits and does what it's supposed to. Mike
  10. You need the Steve parker down pipe unless you change the turbo to 300tdi but I think you then have an engine mount clash instead. The td5 exhaust is either the same size as the 200tdi exhaust or slightly bigger. The td5 has a better route on a 90 I believe. I went td5 because I needed a rolled end on my tail pipe for IVA and I wanted it to exit out the back. Mike
  11. I was going to suggest the td5 exhaust as I have, however mine is the 110 length and wasn't sure about the 90 version. Mike
  12. Most remote sets plug into the solenoid, they don't replace them. Mike
  13. You can keep the exhaust but later ones are better, however the 200tdi 90 exhaust is horrible as it has a strange back box arrangement. Mike
  14. Don't forget you need to move some bell housing studs and fit new bolts through the flywheel housing at the bottom you need to either countersink or counterbore the holes depending on the bolts you use. You'll also need a Steve parker down pipe for the turbo. It is possible to use the viscose fan on some but often it fouls the steering box and pipework. Top pic is a 90 was a td bottom is a 110 was a n/a not that it makes a difference. Mike
  15. This weekend I've been mostly sanding. Sanding the fibreglass repairs, filling the repairs and sanding some more. Then not content with that the boss told me I needed to remove the step in the wall. So out with the multi tool, I managed to peel the inner fibreglass skin off and remove around 20mm of insulation which of coarse needed sanding. I then glued the skin back in place. Finally while I had the multi tool out I've cut the rivets holding the roller shutter door tracks on. Mike
  16. Probably due to the massive import duty most EU customers have to pay on delivery when buying from the UK since Brexit. Some countries it's up round the 30% mark. Mike
  17. Even the professional's struggle with that I can assure you. I'm fairly sure the diaphragm fits any 90/110 bulkhead (though not sure about puma). Mike
  18. They are good winches however I've never been able to justify the extra they command. Their main benefit is speed and potential for bigger drum. So if your just dragging yourself and others out on greenlanes and playdays just about any winch will do, I've had an EP9 and now an X9 both very good winches. Whereas if your doing competition an 8274 is a good start but you'll likely disappear down the upgrade hole. Mike
  19. 45's chassis was spayed with por15. 5 years and one Ladoga later, the areas that were rusty (surface rust) the paint was good still stuck and still black. However anywhere that was shiny metal or previously painted (original lr paint) the por15 had come off, the metal was rusty along with some of the previously painted. The ibex chassis is galv but I painted it with 2k etch and 2k top coat. All the suspension, axles etc I just painted with 2k top coat. 8 years on (5 on the road) the chassis is mostly good the paint has come off where it's been rubbed on the ground etc. The axles are better than I expected there's still paint there but they could do with a repaint now. The springs are looking rougher but that's to be expected. The 110 was done with jotamastic 87 (now 90) and arcrite defender chassis black. 3 years on some rust spots are just starting to show through where there was surface rust prior to painting, but on the whole it's holding up well. The Kit car built years ago came powder coated and I painted the suspension with hamerite. The powder coat came off in sheets a year later and the hamerite didn't last that long. I re-painted with single pack enamel which seemed better but I soldthe car a year later. Mike
  20. When I insulated the ibex I used this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283631065128?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=IkpvIq3XTAW&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=rj9sNdGlTqa&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=MORE I wrapped it around the frame before I covered it for the same reasons you mention. Mike
  21. I've got so long runners but I doubt they're long or strong enough but I figured bearings and aluminium box section as I seam to have a lot of that at the moment. Mike
  22. The 109 you can just climb through the door gaps with the doors "shut". Mike
  23. Thank you for the photos, due to the thickness of our walls that style of window won't work very well so eds more than welcome. Mike
  24. I've already been told I've got to remove 25mm of insulation off of one area because she doesn't want a step in the wall. It's where the insulation was increased for the freezer section, the other side is ok as it's where the door was so the infill is only 56mm anyway. The pull out kitchen is going to be a 2m tray that I've got to sort runners for.......... Mike
  25. Don't you think I've got enough to do, as it is I made the mistake of looking at what she'd be drawing. Ignorance is definitely bliss. Mike
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