Orgasmic Farmer

Definitely fits as I have one on my 110 :-) Not sure about what you would need to change to retain the 110 stubs though. I could sell you a complete early 110 axle complete with good chrome balls, brakes, and arms. Here on the floor, 1 hour from Bristol, ready for collection £100

Hi Sam I did check that one I have but it is a Britpart. Guess it is of no interest to you in that case. I could send it for £100 if it helps though. Mark

On the other hand... when you want to roll it just to see how far it needs to go, it is damn near impossible :-)

Will check it tomorrow Sam. I have a feeling it is a Bearmach one.

Sam. I have a brand new one in the shed (not sure of make). I was planning to fit one day to the 110 but guess I won't ever get around to changing the flanges etc. How much are the LR direct ones?

Do you not want a relay between the 2 batteries to stop the starter battery being dragged down by the Aux? As wired you could just use a bigger single battery for same effect??

On the D1 this seems a common problem and is usually indicative of a need to replace the red flasher relay. This should cure the issue EDIT> Sorry I see you have tried that.

As said. I have extensively modified my Stainless system (from a Disco to a 110) just by using a few bought angles and straights and simply welding them on with a mild steel MIG. Welds perfectly well and after 3 years still looks like new on the joins I did.

I think getting creative is the way to go. I used a Rear wiper motor and arm from a Subaru Justy on mine. Can't remember if I had to shorten the arm or just used a 12" blade, but whatever, it works better than the original.

Seems I am in the same boat. My new Genuine Bosch remanurfactured starter, whilst a great starter had issues with the solenoid and whenever it was warm would not engage. You had to bang away with the key 10-15 times until it finally caught. So I sorted a replacement under warranty which I finally got round to fitting this evening and bugger me, that one turns the engine at a snails pace. So time for new motor number 3. What a pain in the neck

My 110 is plated to tow 4 tonnes though the vacuum brake system has long been removed. Bear in mind when it was legally capable of towing that weight it was a 2.25 NA diesel... in Scotland! Now that would have been interesting :-)

I would be tempted to weld a 6mm plate onto it and then drill through that and tap it. Don't think the cross member will be more than 2.5mm at most, but could be wrong? On my challenge truck I used a 2 gallon tank off a leyland truck. On my 110 I just needed a small reservoir to trigger the rear locker so I welded shut the ends of a 25cm by 100x100mm RHS box and tapped it for a fitting. Works perfectly.

So discovery TD5 commercial steel wheels fit then?

POst removed as I just realised there was a second page to this thread and everything I added had been said there! :-)

Have a read of my thread where I fitted a Disco 300 and box into my early 110. I adopted a novel solution to keeping the dsico shifting gear (nice short throw) and improving the seating position at the same time (seats back and inboard slightly). I also have a nice flat centre console for phones and money etc and a well sound proofed gearbox tunnel. For me it is a win/win solution but there was quite a lot of engineering involved to do it tidy. A mate of mine fitted the same set up to his 110 by cutting a roung hole in the seat box for the sticks and then plonking some think rubber mats over the top!!!! Works, but looks a bit (lot!) gash. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=79226&hl=itch

pics

When I rewired my 1983 110 I used the fuse board from a 200 Tdi Disco. I removed it carefully from the doner with plenty of wire tails and cut and spliced the relevant circuits in while adding new ones to spare circuits. Most of the wiring colours are common as are guage and most of my upgrades were catered for on the disco board already so kept the standard layout. Best of all it was free! I also added a under bonnet main fuse board from a 300 tdi disco to protect major circuits with the mega fuses and to have a handy set of extra fused circuits to take relay feeds from for headlights, spots etc.

I,m in this club too. 110 van with TD5 type disc braked rear axle and the simple PDWA valve fitted on bulkhead. Will always lock rears first in an emergency braking situation. Been looking to fit a G valve or a bias valve for past few years, just never got around to it :-)

I had a 300 tdi disco and the brakes were rubbish. I fitted the EBC grooved discs and greenstuff pads. They were even worse. I stuck with it in the hope they would improve but they never did. It would not even lock the wheels on gravel. In the end it would appear that the pads/discs were not the problem. I tried a new master cylinder but that did not improve anything either. That axle now lives under the front of my 110, which during the rebuild, had fitted vented discs and 110 (TD5) callipers (new genuine), a new OE mater cylinder, a new uprated Bearmach Servo, and all new brake lines/hoses. The brakes have been fantastic since the rebuild so I can only conclude that the problem was with something other than the pads & discs and master cylinder. Good luck, but maybe try changing the callipers first :-)

Just to compare. This is the set up I have, as described above... You can make out the swept area just about.

Here is a write up I did when I rebuilt my 110... The modified wipers and set up still function perfect after almost 3 years and disco wipers actually park dead flat against the bottom of the screen and not 6 inches up it!. Sweep is just about near perfect, maybe another 1-2 degrees would be nice. ................................. I also decided to bin the 30 year old wipers and did an "upgrade" to the later TD5 type setup. A few photos of the wiper upgrade I did. I bought the later TD5 spindle boxes which have larger gears (40 teeth as opposed to 32) and a bigger oval spindle. I had to drill the bulkhead out to 13mm and then enlarge the holes sideways with a dremel to get the spindles to fit. The TD5 bulkhead must have a wider channel at the mounting points put they do (just) fit OK. However, refitting the drive cable saw a problem with the larger gears meaning it now runs about 1cm higher up the bulkhead. So the central stiffener needed modifying and the cable bending a little bit to get around this. The brighter ones out there will realise that the extra 8 teeth on the gear will alter the sweep of the wipers and lead to a reduced swept area. To get around this I fitted the gear and crank from a late TD5 motor (available cheaply enough as a genuine part). This has the crank mounted more outboard on the driven gear which leads to a greater stroke on the flexidrive thus restoring the original stroke to the wipers. The early type crank is marked 113 degrees and the later one as 140 IIRC. Unfortunately I have no photos of this but it is a very straightforward swap involving a circlip and 4 screws! Next up was to modify some discovery Tdi wiper arms to fit the new spindles as this was one of the main reasons for the upgrade. The disco arms, being larger and longer, have stronger springs than the defender ones so theoretically when cut down should be even better (though I have yet to test them). Here are 110 and disco units side by side First up, remove the springs from the arms. Pull one off and the other falls off. Then cut clean though the arm leaving the right length on the bottom bit for later. Now you have to separate the inner and outer bits from both sections of wiper. On the top bit I cut it through again to leave only the length of inner needed when reassembled since that mean there is less centre to drift out. They are a very very tight fit and I was unable to simply tap the middle bit out so I used a slitting disc and carefully cut the outer off. On the lower part of the arm you need to first remove the rivet. Unfurtunately this seems to be made of the hardest metal known to man! I used a small disc to grind it down flush with the spring mounting plate which I then levered off and then ground it down again level with the inner part of the arm. It would still not drift out so at this stage I ran a thin disc up the full length of the central bit careful not to damage the outer part. With a slit in the rivet it was possible to knock it out and then fairly easy to drift out the central section The shortened end piece can then be knocked back into lower section to the correct depth. Check length with the original 110 item. When happy I drilled through the old rivet hole, through the shortened arm and through the spring mount. I then tapped them for an M5 screwhead bolt (just to minimise and chance of movement) and then bolted it together. A bit of tidying and a coat of paint to finish and here are the 2 new wiper arms ready to fit the TD5 spindles and the old one as comparison On testing of this mod it was found that the springs were too strong and the motor would not move the wipers! I removed the springs and stretched them slightly. This resulted in not enough pressure on the wipers! The solution was to fit one stretched spring and one unstretched spring to each wiper which has proven to be just right. Whether it is any better than later defender arms I can't say but they certainly work well enough!

Came in a Bosch Box with a big Plastic tamper-proof seal fastened to the motor with Bosch Quality Assurance stamped on it !!!!

Why not Email them and ask them to phone you at a certain time with an English speaker. You never know?

All I know, I just fitted a brand new (probably recon though) Bosch starter to my tdi as I was having intermittent solenoid issues, and first drive out it already has issues. So just beacuse you pay extra for a supposed quality marque, doesn't mean a thing. It "may" have settled down now one more issue and it is going back.....

Hmm, are they back in stock then? I was hoping to buy some a while back but they didn't have any. Then they had the ally skinned ones in but not the compete steel ones. Better have another look