Orgasmic Farmer

Do a drop test (google it) to test the quality of the cabling/earths to the starter. I had almost identical symptoms, ongoing for 4 years. New batteries, new starters, new earths etc. Always just about good enough to not worry too much about it. It only failed to start twice in that 2 year period but would play up maybe 8 times out of 10. Was always a little sluggish too. Eventually did the drop test and found it was losing 1.5V on both the + & - cables, so only about 9V getting to starter. I invested (talking £60+) in enough 70mm quality cable to run new + & - cable direct from the battery terminals to the starter/starter mounting bolt (thus by-passing the chassis as an earth strap!). All new terminals properly crimped and soldered. That was about 6 months ago and it has been perfect ever since. Starter flies over and starts in a fraction of a second, all weathers.

Get yourself down to the Adventure and Overland show in Stratford this weekend and have a look around there will be hundreds of them there, including several companies in the UK that now offer to buld/fit them.

We are gluttons for punishment. Having had such a great event back in May, with perfect weather, we are going to run another event next month. Similar format with a few new things on offer. Check the website for more details. Hope to see some of you there. Big Outdoors Website

Mine was a 200 tdi, albeit a disco one, but it still had the ladder frame in there. However, the conrod that was bent corresponded to the only place in the ladder where you can access the big end without dropping the frame. As I said. I got lucky. I think it was number 3 cylinder (but it might have been number 2).

If you are lucky you may have only bent 1 conrod. I did the same starting an engine that had been stood and snow melt had gone down the snorkel. Was able to change the offending rod by removing head and sump with engine in situ. I had a used con rod from a mate who breaks trucks, Cost me £10 for the rod and about £15 for a new head gasket. Has been perfect since.

I did look at those when I needed a new welder but decided it wasn't quite man enough for many of the farm repair jobs I end up doing... think 12mm steel, long long runs etc. I ended up buying one of these from Phil Weeks in Bath after using them at my mates engineering works. They are also UK made. OK it is twice the price but can only recommend it if someone wants a bigger inverter welder.

I have had intermittent starting issues on my retrofit 300 for 4 years since I fitted it. Been down the new starter, new battery, new ignition switch route, new earth strap route. Never solved it. Starter often sluggish, sometimes the solenoid would click but not engage, sometimes completely dead. But leave it 2 minutes and try again and it would probably start fine. Only once in 4 years did it ever fail to start after I left the CB on for 24 hours. Finally a few weeks ago I decided to do something about it. After talking to a mate who is an auto electrician, I did a drop test on the + & - cables to the starter. Both were about 1.5 V, so 3 Volt drop in total. Anything over 1 is considered too much. Anyway, I spent £40 on 3 metres each of some quality 40 mm2 copper cable and ran new + & - cables direct from the battery to the starter/starter housing. Drop test on new cables came in a 0.5V combined. And the result? Now perfect. Never started so easily in 4 years, not had a single issue in 4 weeks. I am guessing the old cables were breaking down or had dry joints which caused resistance and the associated voltage drop. So I would definitely do a drop test. Really simple. Plenty of instructions online

Is there delamination in the pipe to the turbo? Or is it collapsing under full boost? Mayber a split in the tube from wastegate to FIP or not even attached (been there done that!). Do you have a join in the fuel feed done with a jubillee clip instead of a crimp? Could it be drawing air in extremis? Have you tried a new lift pump incase the current one is a bit weak? I am guessing you have ruled most/all of them out but just thinking out loud a few things which may affect running as you described.

Sorry, missed this. I found you generally get some time to peel it off and restick if you completely fudge it up.

Yep, I used disco 1 ARBs on my 110 and they fits fine

Hmm, interesting. Not seen that before. I will look into it. Saying that, the blown bridge going north would be a hell of a struggle in anything other than a full blown challenge truck the last time I saw it earlier this year.

Anything can be made to work. Mine has the rear wiper motor from a Subaru Justy on it. Just needed to change the seals where it passed through the door from angled to flat. Plus crimp on new electrical connectors. I guess only a LR one will be plug and play, but the motors and spindles are pretty generic. Get your tape out and tour the local scrappy if you want to save money :-)

In my mates 90 And less of the Fatboy :-)

I bought 3 kits back then. Cut the green nylon cover off and simply glued it on with quality carpet glue in a spray can. Used it over bitumen-type flashing in places, then covered with carpet covered ply. However, it is directly glued to metal in some places and is still fully exposed on the rear wheel boxes as I still haven't got round to covering it. That is 3 years now and it is still holding up really well. Fantastic quality stuff it is.

Shame it has been closed for the past 5 years or more :-(

To save starting a new topic I have a couple of related questions.... I have a number of transfer boxes on the floor including a late TD5 disco one without the difflock mechanism. I am hoping to rebuilt a good box using the internals from the TD5 box (Q gears???) into an earlier case with a difflock fitted. Is this possible to do? This will be to replace current box on the 110 which is starting to leak quite badly from around the slaked nut. Is there a temporary fix for this without removing the box from the car?

Not suggesting anything in these links will fit, but there may be something there you could work with, or at least get some more ideas for alternative solutions. http://www.malpasonline.co.uk/s/c/tractor-parts/front-axle-steering/4wd/track-rods-drag-links/?Keyword=track+rod&SearchContext=KeywordExactSearch http://www.malpasonline.co.uk/s/c/tractor-parts/front-axle-steering/2wd/track-rods-drag-links/?Keyword=track+rod&SearchContext=KeywordExactSearch

WRT tapered inserts..... Massey Ferguson TRE have a habit of working loose and turning the tapered hole oval. The solution is straight drilling/boring the hole and dropping in a tapered insert with a top-hat profile that when tightened down cannot pull through. I have an insert here on my desk... I bought the larger of 2 sizes they make when I needed the smaller one so there are at least 2 different sizes out there to buy off the shelf :-)

Best thing to do is forget the idea of using the ddor. It will make so much extra work it is never worth it. Do what Muddy (and I) did and build a frame out of 20mm box and sheet it in and use a window of your choice. I used the side windo from the rear of a 90 station wagen

I thought about that too Tim. But I thought if they can survive 5000 combustion cycles per minute under extreme heat and pressure, surely they can stand being left turned on for a while. Or not?

300 tdi, been fine for past 4 years since retro fitted. Today the glowplug warning light stayed on. Will do analyticals and will no doubt solve it, but if anyone can save me some time with sensible suggestions as to what to check first. i.e, is there a common cause for this? Cheers OF

My 110 runs a bog standard set of ARBs taken off a 300 tdi discovery. Cost was nothing as I was breaking it! Like you I also have an locker in the rear so articulation isn't really the be all and end all of making progress through the twisty stuff. However, the following picture shows that even with the ARBs fitted the amount of articulation is still pretty good. However, a 110 is actually better at squeezing the most out of them by virtue of its' extra leverage. Should have got a barge mo :-)

I used a ca. 30 cm long piece of 100 x 100mm box with 2 ends welded on as an air tank. I drilled it for a push-fit fitting before welding the ends on so there was no swarf in the tank. It sits in the void above the exhaust back box botled to the floor, with the compressor in the cubby hole directly above it. All the extra manifolds and take off points are in the cubby box with the compressor rather than under the floor.

There is a thin O ring in there. Mine was pouring oil out until I changed it. Been dry as a bean now for over 4 years. Unfortunately the O ring is only available as part of the complete steering box seal kit

I run my 1983 110 using the engine and loom from a late 300 tdi disco. Nothing special, just threw away all the gubbins associated with the alarm and central locking etc and connected the wires needed across a new multi connector on the bulkhead. Very straightforward to be fair and works fine