V8 Freak

If changing providers the links will die... If those members with images in threads can add posts in the threads with updated links before they die we can try and work through the respective posts and update the threads.... Probably wise to "Report" the respective threads to Mods so we can make the changes without having to scour the board for the threads... You can upload to the board here if you wish and then the links / threads should not suffer the same fate associated hosting sites that do eventually close out the links. (Or die if the user moves on etc.) Neil

No.. The grommets were still the ecu connector so I suspect pulled through while someone working in there, both snapped clean, showing no wire outside of the insulation... Possibly past owner fired up, it ran so they knew no better and taped them out of the way assuming them to be surplus. Only conjecture.... Anyone else care to embelish the possible happenings of more than 5 years ago on a truck they've never seen... Maybe a Nige story, distracted after coating the cat in Waxoyl and forgot the wires.... Let the imagination run free.....

My 2003 XS also has Air Con....

Thanks for all the responses... The final outcome was good although not as hard to track down as I'd originally feared... Got hands on the truck yesterday and got the meter out to check continuity between MAF and pin 11 on the red ECU connector... Looking at the red ECU plug it had a metal socket connector in pin 11, but no wire coming out the back ! (Same for pin 10) Closer inspection of the loom behind the ECU plug showed two wires taped together and out of the way. Checked continuity of grey wire to MAF and bingo. Other wire was output from Ambient Air Pressure sensor.. Continuity check to that plug also good. Wired up two connectors onto the wires, popped out the redundant sockets and plopped the new ones in... Fired up and all looked good in Nanocom. Owner took it for a drive and is very please with his "new" truck... Turned out he'd lived with this sluggish performance for 5 years !! Neil

I think the routing will be different Rich.. Defender ECU under drivers seat, Disco in engine bay...I think it'll probably go over the back of the engine and join the main loom then under the truck to the seatbox... Not had a look yet but hopefully any chafing will be obvious...

No but tried mine in his..... (As mentioned above) Mine working and showing air flow in Nanocom when connected to my vehicle... He's borrowed my spare VDO MAF as well.... But I think we have proven he has a wiring issue doing what we have done so far. Now to trace wires and check connections...

Cheers.. Will get he meter on mine then compare to his...

I have a friend with a poorly TD5... Awwww.... Engine has no guts.... Popped on Nanocom and can see that MAF not working.. Constant reading of 4.0... Put on my working MAF and no difference... We will need to check wiring continuity back to ECU but it would help to know the route it takes in the loom and if there are any connectors before it finally get to Pin 11 in the red plug... Can anyone help please.... Thanks in advance. Neil

Was all the pipe he had left is my bet..... Doesn't look like they use the bump stop much so will be fine..

This is the one. The nozzle doesn't clog and has worked fine on loads of applications from diff casings to rocker cover. Neil

I have some from Halfords I think.. Grey stuff that is meant to be anti-burst and good for holding back the Oil.... If I get a sec I'll nip into the garage and have a look for you...

That's the place they all want to leak. I've not used genuine gaskets. Careful application of a good sealant and it's not leaking. Neil

Always happy to exercise the old grey cell... Especially if it pleases my favourite nephew...

Can I play?? Uncle Neil....

Back of the rocker cover has a half circle shape cut out and the gasket can leak there if not sealed properly on fitting.. May be worth a look....

If you go for a drive and oncoming drivers aren't flashing you... They are probably ok.. (Flashing their lights you filthy minded lot...)

Is the black plastic bung on the front of the head sealed?? A small amount of oil goes everywhere.....

It was raining when I got home... As much as I like you Rich, you can wait til it's dry LOL

I think there might still be a sticker under my bonnet with % dip required... (That may be the Golf though !!) I'll have a look tonight when I get home for you. I typically pull up behind another car on a flat surface (Tesco car park or similar) at about 3 car lengths distant and see if the flat line on the top of the dip beam it hitting the average cars rear window..... Adjust to not blind the average car driver.... I think the main beams on most cars are suppose to be parallel to the ground, so maybe try setting the main beam up parallel with the ground and see how far down the dip beam is after that? Never had any feedback from MOT by using common sense methods... Neil

I had similar. It was leaking diesel that thinned oil in its path so it looked like oil under the truck. Also check the plastic bung in the front of the head. It was leaking on mine and oil came from all over the engine because of it (Looked like it did anyways) The fan blows it back to almost every possible run down the engine.

Happy to do that with my dash cam and can use nanocom if more convenient for monitoring purposes. Just the problem of distance.

Black smoke is un-burnt diesel..... This could be less air than required at the time it smokes or more fuel than required... I would start with the real basics... Remove air filter and see if it runs any different. Check the turbo waste gate is moving ok... Temporarily blank the EGR to eliminate it? Borrow MAP sensor out of another TD5.... I get a cloud of black smoke when I pull away and have the throttle down. (Usually worse when slightly bogged down when trying to move off.) Rarely any thing noticeable under other conditions unless I bury the throttle at low RPM and over-fuel when I get black smoke bellowing out the back..... I have a spare turbo if you want to go that far trying other parts.... Neil

Mine did that when I replaced the belt & tensioner..... (A lesser known brand of belt... Can't remember the brands but not blue box....) Got hold of another and the problem went away. No issues with the crank pulley when I tested it....

The Ctek would be an option but I think it will need to be connected to a battery to be able to supply.... I've not tried mine without a battery but if you did use a Ctek charger on a bench battery Nige it would make sure it's always conditioned and therefore you could grab the battery for other purposes in an emergency.. (Starting truck etc.) Neil

Welcome to the forum.... Un-plugging the MAF should allow you to run the engine..... If it won't run, it's unlikely to be the MAF....