V8 Freak

After 130k miles I'm not sure they would entertain a discussion... I'll assume not and just move on with life

I have no bottom end noise I can hear above the rest of the engine so would you just recommend flushing a few times as above to try and wash any bit out of the sump and just focus on top end?

Surely crank down would need engine out or gearbox off the back Mo? Wasn't going to go that far without cause. Dropping sump and checking / changing big end shells not too much of a job. So long as oil pump all comes off and no sheared bolts...

It's the only one. No evidence of metal on the top of the engine. I had already drained the oil and tipped it into the waste oil barrel so no chance to look for fragments this time. I'll see if i can get a magnetic sump drain plug. (NIGE....) I'm more than happy to change the oil and filters as suggested. Thanks. As the engine has 130k miles now and is used daily I was going to get replacement head from Turners so I am not mixing too many old and new parts. Anyone think it's worth dropping the sump to check for fragments and check out the bottom end while I'm there? Not looking for work but curious. (No weird sounds and drives fine) Neil

Hi all, Appealing to the collective knowledge on here and would really like to understand what could have happened to cause this... TD5, cylinder 5 (At the back).... Camshaft / injector rocker Opened the top to change the injector loom as part of a general service and spotted this.... AFTER I'd dropped the oil and changed the filters.... Looking forward to understanding this as I don't want it to happen again if I can prevent it.... Neil

Just a wild thought... Try depressing / resetting the impact switch on the bulkhead. I can't remember what it stops apart from the engine (of course), but it would make sense to not pump fuel after an impact is detected... I've disconnected mine to crank for oil pressure before now so the engine will crank if it's tripped.... Worth a try? Other than that replace the crank sensor... Neil

Does this help?? http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/images/source/CV_joint_rework.pdf Neil

More reading and our overdrive expert is redeemed.... http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/jod/JOD1/JOD1.htm He did know his stuff.... The Unidirectional clutch is now on the suspect list....

Maybe he was an expert on other Overdrives I think taking it apart again without buying any new spares is worthwhile... Getting those last few areas opened up will help us to decide if it could be springs losing their strength over time... Could add spacers temporarily under the retaining plates to increase pressure I guess and replace springs if proven correct? I don't have a convenient test bed now as mine is 1.2 T/box.... (Mo... Where are you when I need you.. Well your truck !!!)

Them springs were already on top of my list.... Will call some experts today and see what they say ! Edit: The helpful chap at Overdrive Repair Services was talking about a Uni-directional clutch which has a plastic carrier that he suspects may have broken up and therefore not be applying the pressure required. Apparently the cone clutch is only engaged when reversing or in Overdrive ! (Hard to figure that one out but he's the one who knows his stuff...) He doesn't like working on them as he has no way to test them and suggested Devon 4X4 as the only other company he knew working on them. Last time I called them they were talking at least half of a new Overdrive to "potentially" provide a fix.. They assumed cone clutch, which has been replaced.. So... we are no further forward... Might be time to get it apart on the bench again ! Rich....... You wanna play some more? Neil

Ally, What do you think would make one slip when not engaged? I've got one that used to be found under my 110 V8 but it had a sabbatical and lived in a box in the garage for a while. We've replaced the clutch material and replaced the filters..... Still slips under power. Do you think the pressure springs pushing the cone clutch in can soften with age? Neil

I've got the Crystal / Wipac style lights in my 90 with Osram Nightbreakers and lighting loom wired directly to the battery etc. and they are very good.... Clear light definition and definitely good enough for my motorway / road or off-road use.. Regards Neil

Chris, If you want to head up you can swap known working parts off mine to see if it has any effect if you wish? Only so far we can go like that but MAF, MAP, Air Temp sensor, blank off EGR if not done already, check hoses etc. I think I have an old set of hoses and spare standard intercooler in case yours is leaking etc.... Neil

Hi Steve.... Good to see you back and with a new project as well..... I'll watch with interest and of course if I can be of assistance, give me a nudge... Neil

Or spend a little more for something like a Griffin exhaust system and get a lifetime guarantee !!!

Spoken like a Pro Mo..

Nope..... Have you uploaded the picture to the forum or are you trying to link to an external site? Nothing in the post to suggest either is happening....

Hi Gerard, As above..... Purge fuel until gurgling stops... 2 or 3 times if needed. Regards the centrifugal filter, some are quieter than others but to hear it spinning down is good news... It's spinning !! You've already done the injector seals so unless your fuel pump is getting weaker with age (Mine lost a lot of pressure at around 90k miles) it's just taking time to clear through the system. The gurgling / swishing should be quite audible.... If it's not, you may want to consider the in tank fuel pump.... Neil

Hi and Welcome to the forum.... Can you have another go at attaching a picture? Nothing in the original email! Neil

I didn't bother with an isolating switch... Positive feed I used is ignition fed so it's not putting power to ECU when car switched off. It's all quite simple once you get your head round it. Made looms for a few people now that are virtually plug & play taking feed from another pin in the black plug. Pop the pins & blanks out, pop in the new pins, mate up connections with removed pin and earths, insulate etc. Route cable to switch, slide on 3 spade connectors and off you go.... (Slightly more involved if Defender changed to 1.2 ratio transfer box, but fitting a Speedo-healer only adds 20 mins to the process.)

But plugs out could help diagnose over fueling / flooded?

It's only a few wires and a two way Mom switch. This is the simplest way to show how to wire it up. Where are you based??

This might be sending you away from the real problem, but if you change the plugs for a fresh set (After stalling and failing to start) does it run? I recall having issues with some spark plugs, moreso with some brands than others. Once "wet" they would not fire the engine.... I can't see how a running engine, would stall and not start for an hour if it's a wiring issue? How do the wires mend themselves temporarily? Sounds more like overfuelling during warm up cycle and a sort of flooded issue requiring time to re-start and run. Is this 14CUX / Hotwire or Flapper? Neil

Not really different from the known failure of the main light switch ! Regardless of how many looms LR built in, one point melts and you have no dipped beam feed at all! My view is it's maybe a vulnerability but likely to last longer than the light switches do without the loom. Worst case is a dozen screws to plug in old loom / connectors if it should fail.... Yes, more points fed separately by different power feeds would be ideal, but for a plug and play solution this is pretty good and simple. Regards Neil

One addition that we did was to fit an airline adapter in the side. (Basically a normal tyre/wheel fitting) We then just use the air line to keep the pressure up. Cannot over pressure the container as it has a pressure relief valve.