elbekko

There are two that if you mix them, they coagulate and plug everything up, I'm guessing that's OAT and Glycol? Other than that, erm, the blue stuff?

Oh, I forgot to add. Yesterday I mainly used the scanner in this configuration: That's the included WiFi link, which I connected my laptop to. And then just used a Bluetooth mouse app on my phone to press start/pause. Way easier to swing around without being attached to a cable, but still all the processing power of a proper computer

Just how old do you think I am? That's just the style we have laying around at the workshop, I must admit I'm about 100x quicker reading a digital scale over a vernier, but I do know how to. And at least the vernier doesn't have a dead battery whenever you need it.

I did a bit more scanning today as I had some more time at the workshop. The scan spray works well, but you need to remember to put the scanner into texture mode, otherwise it doesn't help at all. Also did a quick measurement comparison: I'll take that.

I used some S355 for the winch cradle in my bumper, the numbers made it look very much worth it. And I noticed the difference drilling it...

So a set of rings and a weekend's work for this one?

Not sure how useful a turntable would be for that, just hang it off a chain and move the scanner around? I don't think that's necessary at all, it might help with photogrammetry but I don't think it'd do much for this type of scanner.

That's not a bad idea. Would require me to get along with my 3D printer again though... Although so far I've preferred using a computer with the scanner. It's more powerful, you're swinging around less weight, and getting the scan off the phone to the computer is a bit of a pain. I think just using a bluetooth mouse app would probably work to press the button remotely. Or one of those bluetooth presenter remote thingies ziptied to the handle.

Depending on the colour scheme, texture mode might work. Just pure white could be a challenge, and might require markers. A small turntable (maybe you have a welding positioner or something?) could also help for that. On another note, I forgot to add I experimented a bit with the included WiFi bridge as well. That seems to work fine, both with a phone and a computer. It seemed to have a little bit less bandwidth maybe than just straight USB-C, but not being tethered to the cable was nice. But what this thing really needs is a start/stop button on the handle, instead of having to reach over to the phone/computer. I've also noticed the phone app has an undo button while scanning, but the computer one doesn't for some reason. That's too bad. I think for now my biggest limitation is my Fusion360 skills Haven't had much more time this weekend to play around with the model. Last I tried was fitting some sheetmetal sketches to the mesh, which worked well, except that I defined my plane slightly wrong so it wasn't level. For some reason you can create a plane at an angle to a feature, but not another plane, which is weird...

Would something like this be a better solution if the sloshing is the problem? https://www.tanksrus.co.uk/water/water-tank-accessories/baffle-balls

Looks very good!

The stuff I bought together with the scanner is this: https://www.3dprima.com/3d-printers-more/others/3d-scanner/aesub-white-scanning-spray-400-ml_27665_9126 Cheap enough to take a punt on, but haven't used it yet.

It actually doesn't show the whole picture - the mesh lines were from a few cm further back than the face shown. This sort of shows it better (not easy to capture in a screenshot): The idea is definitely to use it as a general reference, and build your own shapes from there, which is what I'm playing with now. These videos explain it quite well:

Well, erm, wow. I did some reading of the manual (ludicrous, I know), and instead of doing the auto-processing, I set it to manual and set the resolution to max (same scan, just different processing). This is the result. So much more detail! It shows the thickness of the chassis here at 3.2mm, which is probably not far off. More later.

Oh ffs don't turn this into another EV thread...

Can you still find anything with a running engine for 1k? With how prices have evolved, I doubt that'd be the case, around here anyway...

Oh, it definitely could be Just nitpicking really. Not sure how terrible it would look to have those few spots shiny instead of blue though, might be ok without having to start all over? But as you say, the guy you're making it for is the important opinion to get

It looks pretty good. Maybe knock the bits of blue on the boat down a bit with a flap disk?

No clue if they're any good or whatever, but looks like getting it coded out is pretty cheap: https://www.empiretuning.co.uk/product/land-rover-defender-discovery-td5-msb-nnn-ecu-immo-removal/

Yeah, but having a new engine build combined with MS makes it difficult to tell where the problem actually is. Ideally you'd do one change at a time, but that wasn't really an option in this case, sadly.

That's my next step, yes. Making for Motorsport did a test with a 1-2-3 block and came in at <0.5mm error IIRC.

Yeah, I bought some of the spray, but haven't used it yet. Would probably help, didn't have much time to screw around with it yesterday. It can work with the dots, but that seems to be a different scan mode. Haven't tried that yet.

True. Good thing I'm not normal then To be fair I've been getting similar reactions on MBWorld, but in the other direction Guess I'm not a normal Merc user either...

Ain't nobody that wants to see that. What, too modern?

Tried it out on a car yesterday (using @Escape's P38 as a model because it doesn't have a rear bumper on it yet), this thing is brilliant. Now to learn how to work with the software... especially that GOM Inspect stuff that Making for Motorsport uses, appears to no longer be simple to download. Again, not perfect, but a hell of a lot better than what I could manage with a tape measure. Tracking went fairly well, it mainly got confused at large flat surfaces (side body panel), and the towbar mount tube/bracket also confused it a bit, but I think that's mainly due to light. I also took a quick scan of the other side, and that didn't go quite as well, but still not bad! Again, I think light was important here, as this side was less well lit. ke Maybe a ring light like this mounted behind the scanner would work. But just pointing a few portable lights on the underside already helped a lot. Now to learn how to use MeshMixer and such...