Mo Murphy

Thanks Thirsty, I did actually run a new wire which improved the reading to where it is now. Mo

Fuel guage works fine Callum I paid a bit extra on ebay for a module with the plugs and 2" of wire from each, money well spent Enjoy your undersealing Mo

I haven't met you, I don't live in the SW or Horsham and I'm not in the States. There. Mo

Never mind Ralph, over to Stephen in the studio ... Just a thought, is this a resistance thing ? Could one introduce a resister into the wire from the sender to alter the reading ? Perhaps, I suspect, that's too easy Mo

Erm, I made my own "harness". I wonder what's in that Tdi harness to change things ? From the wiring diagram, the TD5 wiring to the temp gauge is different to the Tdi in that the sender wire is routed via the speedo, in on pin 5, I think and out on pin 9 on the c1061 connector (the lower one) on the back of the speedo. The wire from pin 9 then goes to the ground terminal on the back of the temp gauge. On the Tdi according to the diagram, it goes from sender straight to the ground terminal bypassing the speedo. Stu and I tried both today, getting low reading on the tdi set up and nothing on the td5 set up, so next stop is a late 300 sender. Thanks guys Mo

I've got the TD5 dash all up and working now except that the temp gauge (no, I'm not going to get a vdo one so save your fingertips ) which reads low (normal running temp is in the blue segment). My engine is a 300 Tdi transplant so I'm not sure what sender is in there now. I've done a search for sender threads but they tend to be clogged up with vdo recommendations (well intentioned but I want to keep LR parts). I've searched microcat for a number for a TD5 sender number to no avail. Does anyone have the part no. and is it different to Tdi senders as regards the thread ? Does anyone have any suggestions as to a course of action to remedy the reading ? Cheers Mo

There's nothing to see Callum, 2 wired plugs going to the old harness and a soldered joint on each wire. Which wire goes to where is no mystery, some are still the same colour and the others are easily worked out using a wiring diagram for your current landy and the TD5 wiring diagram Make sure that you get the plugs for the warning lamp module with it, it will be a nightmare without them. I've finished wiring up the rest of the TD5 dash now and it all works except that the temp gauge reads very low. I'll try a TD5 sender and see what happens. Pics tomorrow. Mo

Good stuff Barros, I can't wait until next year Mo

Update :- I have the TD5 warning lamp module wired up in the vehicle and working Piece of cake in the end, providing you have the plugs Mo

I know how too, Ian but not this time. It's drivable but I've a new oem master and slave cylinders coming tomorrow, so I'll start from scratch and work up. Cheers Mo

Perhaps you could find a cheap wide track with a damaged or missing body, then you could make your own custom body for it in the style of that one in your link. You'd then have a bomb proof chassis with a body incorporating all the bits and pieces you'd need, without spending 15K. That's certainly along the lines that I'd think. Mo

Go here Uncle

I forgive you Ralph Mo

Firestone SATS and a V8 in my 2A, happy memories Mo

Ralph, then hang head in shame but thanks anyway Black Cab, I'll try that then, cheers. Mo

Back in your box, Stephen

Anyone

Thanks Jim, just what I needed. Chris, I don't know if that's what I needed ???????? Cheers Mo

Hmmm.... Hear hear, I think Kev's talking in the right direction. Mo

You don't need a trailer now Chris, you've bought a barge ! Mo

My hi-lift is secured to the roll cage back stay with U clamps with a M10 bolt welded to each and wing nuts to secure the jack to the bolt. Quick and secure. I have lots of QFs in my landy but I don't think I'd like to rely on one to hold the jack in place which is why I didn't use them for that purpose. HTH Mo

I can't adjust 2" of free play out of the clutch pedal. I've just fitted a 300 Tdi clutch pedal assy to my 90 and I can't adjust the play out. I'm getting no air through in the last 2 bleeds, I've set the pedal height to 140mm and I've set the push rod play to 1.5mm. I did have a bit of extra play with the old pedal which I put down to worn pivot bushes (they were very worn), so I suspect the problem may lie elsewhere, the slave perhaps ? Your thoughts and assistance would be welcome. Mo

Morning Chaps, Two quick questions for you - The current warning lamp module is the original '86 version with a single shared indicator warning lamp and the trailer warning lamp which also acts a the hazard warning lamp. Where in the system can I pick up separate L and R feeds for a later warning lamp module with R and L indicator warning lamps. Since I don't use a trailer, I shall plug the trailer/hazard straight onto the hazard lamp in the new. Anyone foresee a problem with this ? Cheers Mo

I've never had nylocs come loose either ! It's probably, as the others say, a quality issue. Mo