Maverik

I think scube is probably refering to cranked trailing arms, they do allow the axel to sit back more at its natural position. I have an LR90 with harder raised springs (~2") and a salisbury rear, I have castor corrected rad arms and trailing arms, the front shaft is a standard NA one with original flanges and the rear is a front prop of a 300tdi with wide angle flanges. Unfortunatly its very much veriable from truck to truck for most part of it, best thing to do is do some measuring and work out how your truck sits...

Snow in Aberdeenshire, helped 5 people this morning! pushing them (by hand) though as I forgot the tow rope! wasn't quite expecting the snow to be so bad as it was, still glad I took the 4x4 though. My Karma is topped up for the rest of the week now!

try behind the dials? - do your hazards work? they use the same relay? there is a good fault diagnosis thread in the tech archive on flasher bits n bobs.

A few links Link1 Link2 Link3

Do you know the garage you are taking it too? If you do and are on "friendly" terms, ring him up and ask, or you could be anonamous and ring another garage and ask them? I don't think they really should be opening your bonnet so from that point of view they shouldn't really notice. I would stand by the point of saying the system is not fitted as there is no pump or hoses personally.

To be honest, it looks like someones put a lot of time and effort into that "thing" better then most film props that come up for sale on fleebay. I don't perticularly like the look of it, but I can see why it would be desirable.

I recently drained my front diff also, and the oil looked very similar, looked almost reflective at first, and yes it was rather alarming, but I put it down to the molyslip I used in the CV's and the 1 shot CV joint oil/greese migrateing past the seals, the only other thing it could be is the hardend face of my cogs wearing theselves into oblivion, which I found difficult to belive as they where perfectly happy last time I checked, but there wasn't any big bits that i would have maybe expected if it was this. I'm guessing time will tell...

A very interesting link you posted Nigel, and it does tie in with a few other sites I found with regard to newer engines, but I'm guessing it depends on the grade to which the refurbished engine bores where honed to.

Read this article My link In this case the context is a small marine type engine, but the information carries over to Automobile engines too. If you can understand what the full problem is then you can apply the correct solution.

I've been thinking about exhaust heat for a while now too, but after being prompted by another thread I picked up a 12v electric heater matrix out of a Peagot, not actaully got it yet, so not sure on what size its going to be but I'm planning on putting it next to the water matrix already there, sort of slot it in. Hopefully it will arive this week, so going to get on it asap.

Yes its is possible to blow relays. I once shorted my starter motor +ve onto a copper brake line, it blew my headlamps, brake fluid test relay, ingnition relay, some lights showed on the dash when I started it after the incident, then didn't. get your hands on some relays and get swapping them out I'd suggest.

A job on my "to-do" list too... See VWP Linky

£120.... I know everyone as to make a living an all, but really?

I upgraded my wireing too when I did mine so maybe that's makes the difference?

I vote crystal upgrade, its like night and day, (excuse the pun) I got a pair with bulbs and new bowls and everything for 30 squid (wipec ones - from bolt on bits), even if they go yellow after a few years, just replace them, its a no frills easy job to do too and cheap. they use standard 2 fillament H3 bulbs.

again when you speak to the mechanic tell him you have new brakes... I had new pads, shoes, discs and calipers, they had only done less than a 100 miles, don't go nuts before hand as you can glaze your new pads and disc if you do it a little too heavy, the guy I used let me off on that as the rear end did lock up a tad under really heavy brakeing its fine now the pads have bedded in.

I also agree with that, I like to sit on the fence sometimes! if its all bolted up and together, I'd leave it.

I've been thinking about this and I'd have another look at the return spring closely - maybe pop the hatch of the top of the pedal box?, make sure it hasn't gone ping - it could deceptivly look ok, when really you have broken off one of the ends etc.). From the parts book Ralph has listed you can see you obviously have the internal type return spring (I just learn't something as I didn't know there where 2 types!) As your clutch is still working I'm struggling to picture what would generate enough friction to allow the peddal to stick down especially against the force of the pedal return spring. It could be that it is literally the death throws of your (educated guess) master cyclinder, so the seals are still sealing but are chewing themselves up in the cylider bore causing the stickyness... Have a look underneither at the slave, see if its leaking? it may leak into the flywheel housing so you might see something coming out the flywheel housing drain hole...

To be honest it very much depends on the garage and the guy thats doing the test in my experience, the best thing I found was to go down to the garage prior to the test and just chat to one of the senior mechanics, if you can. After my rebuild I chose my garage carfully, and went to a "land rover friendly" garage. I'm not sure a cracked headlight would be a fail... unless its effecting the headlight beam pattern, then I guess it is a fail. Again, ring the garage and ask them. Don't forget to give it a good run before it goes in (maybe with a redex treatment), help clean out the engine a bit before they do a smoke test.

Hmmm, you're only talking about small weight I guess, I wouldn't have thought you would feel anything different, its a small mass compared to the overall mass of the flywheel. I doubt it will have much effect, but saying that long term it might, think about what happens to an imballanced wheel and they only stick small weights on them (usually) to get them balanced again. Land rover engine are precise machines but are built to withstand a lot of abuse. To be comfortable I would probably try and replace the missing stud. your flywheel is constantly turning at relativly high RPM so even a small imballance over some time could cause extra stress on the back of the engine bearing surfaces... just my thoughts.

I've got a R380 shorty and trans box from Andrew at AW transmissions, great box so far... and very very helpfull chap. definatly reccomend him.

Hmmm, well in the clutch system there are verious springs that should help the pedal to return to the top, the big two are the clutch annulus spring itself, and a spring that is attched to the pedal assembly istelf, you can see it if you have a look in the footwell, (behind the sound damping if you have it). You'd know if the clutch annulus spring had gone as you wouldn't be able to lift the clutch. you could have lost the pedal spring? that would potentially stop the pedal from returning up, could have broken/corroded through? The other spring is in the piston housing itself, but thats relativly small in comparrison. If the pedal spring is still in tact, then I would guess that one of your cylinders had started to deteriorate.... but if that had happend then they would be bypassing and you would not be able to operate the clutch properly. I'd check the pedal return spring first, should look like this one... then check the resovioir for black rubber bits (very fine bits) - means some of your seals are on the way out.

I have to think about it a bit more, but yeah I agree there will be a limit to the input frequency... another thought, could I modify an indicator flasher unit to give me a pulse... although I'm guessing there will also be a limit to what i could get the relay to switch too, but in theory, if there isn't any fancy elctrics in the transducer... I fear there might be though. Hmmm, but if you wanted to go all the way to 99999 what happens when you get there? I guess it could just lock at that number?

If you're going big guns on the clutch I'd also recommend an alloy clutch release bearing carrier rather than the scabby plastic LR one, I got it from Rakeway motorsport, very helpfull guys there and they know what they're doing. My link