Maverik

Yes you're right they had a smooth filling of sealant in the gutters, just needs filling and making as smooth as you can.

A good friend just cancelled his order for one too. He took one for a test drive and he did like it, but he struggled with the pedal position with the bulge under his left foot, only after an hour it said it was getting pretty uncomfortable. He said he got back into his Landcruiser and did a big sigh of relief, he said that pretty much summed up the experience, I think he's probably end up just upgrading the Landcruiser. If the price tag wasn't quite so steep he mused he could probably look over the various quibbles, but as it stands it doesn't make a huge amount of sense.

Welcome to the forum Can you clarify what model of discovery you have? - considering its a rear half chassis change, I'm guessing its a Td5 Discovery 2 you're talking about? Mav

I'm sure I saw somewhere you can get the boge unit re-built. I'll have a look, if you could rebuild - from what I've read in old posts the boge unit works very well. After a quick search looks like this chap got it rebuilt by ZF. RRC self levelling strut reconditioned by origianl manufacturer | Land Rover UK Forums (lrukforums.com)

Check your earth's, and clean them all up really well, especially any in and around the underseat fusebox, if also maybe run some temporary earth's directly back to the battery negative.

There's a small buzzer located in the mfu unit which is integrated into the fusebox below the steering wheel (rh drive). You could probably tactical damage it so it no longer works. (Black circle thing) That's a picture of a post 95 unit, pre they're slightly different.

Thanks for closing this out super helpful for readers doing research on the same topic👍

Their bread and butter are Td5's, while they do Puma remapping/upgrade too, the ford engine is not really suited excessive tuning, I think they said the most they'd got out of one was about 196bhp.

That manifold was a thing of beauty, the boss at the turbo end was a machined billet weldment really nice bit of kit.

So a good friend just bought a low mileage (20k) 2.2 Def 90 which is pretty much standard apart from a few upgraded fittings and fixtures. He wants to have a good usable not in your face 90, so he booked the truck into Alive tuning down in Louth, when I heard this I dually invited myself along for the ride. We where met at the door by one of the engineers, went through some legal bumf and then offered an additional dyno run for a before and after, this wasn't required as it was a simple Stage 1 flash remap that was proposed. Luckily I was there to persuade said owner or we'd have missed out on some geek fun, after a brief vehicle health check, they got the truck strapped onto the rolling road. I think it was a slightly quieter day but they where super chilled out and where happy to answer all my ridiculously technical questions. So while she was getting the pre tune run, we got a poke about one of there test trucks. This thing is tuned to 306bhp with verious upgrades as well as a full transmission fettle too. We got a chance to ride passanger in a test drive of this thing and all I could think was how is this engine not spontaneously disassembling itself... a testimony in itself of the quite honestly phenomenal robustness of a core td5 engine. Pretty cool. Back to the Puma, on paper they're meant to be 122bhp with ~300nm of torque. This one ran out at 131bhp at 310nm apparently this isn't unusual, like the body build tolerance, the engine output is quite broad and this one being one of the far right end of the scale - so a pretty good starting point. They then send the output to the boss who checks it over then sends the engineer the new remap flash file which they then flash to the ecu. Apparently they don't get very many stock trucks in to play with so they where pretty excited to do some base value comparisons, so she went on again to qualify what the flashing achived. An impressive increase to 160.9bhp and a whopping 400.6nm Test drive completed by the engineer to make sure it felt right then after answering another 100 questions from me we had a rather swifter drive home with my mate mulling over the shopping list of the additional suspension parts he's going to upgrade to compliment the better engine performance. I'm not affiliated or sponsored by Alive, but after a visit to their garage I am super impressed with there professionalism as well as there outstanding knowledge on tuning, they where even interested in having a look at my 200tdi. Super impressed and had a great day to boot. Mav

To close this a little, I found these for a bargain price on ebay. Wire Crimper Crimping Pliers Jaw JX-1601-2546 AWG14-10 2.5-6mm² Bootlace R9I2 | eBay They fitted perfectly in a ratchet crimper I had already.

I've got a trutrac in the front and a gleason in the back and when taking tight turns maneuvering they clunk and creek, its them locking up and doing what they should, it's quite disturbing at first but you get used to it in certain conditions. Was particularly interesting driving in the snow and ice, it did it a lot which tells me the transmission was working how it should.

Does this remove any programmed security code?

Hi folks, I can't help take this to a slight extreme, trying to install this genuine Discovery radio unit but its locked, anyone got any recommendations for radio code retrieval? The Web is flooded with people offering code services just not a clue who to use. Cheers Mav

Thanks @PaulMc great info as usual 👍 Where about do you get your tools from?

Can anyone help me identify the correct crimping tool for the "open barrell splice" type crimps as pictured below. Wire sizes 18.5 - 13.5 AWG and 12 - 9 AWG really struggling, I've been using a terminal crimping tool, but its not wide enough to get the whole crimp in so you do half of it at a time, it's a real pain. Thought it would he a good "quick" way for joining wires, turns out it takes me twice as long as what I was doing before.

Defender apparently... Thanks for the suggestions folks.

Hi folks, can anyone help me identify this 2 pin socket, it's attached to a horn. Cheers Mav

Yes they are from the main branding. from what I read it will still be used but not as the "overreaching" brand which it is now.

This seems to be not really new in the automotive industry, all the big brands have done it - a few examples Subaru - Impreza WRX, they dropped the Impreza and made a model line WRX. Another one I noticed was Seat Cupra, they just made it Cupra. I dont think "Land Rover" is specific enough for the JLR brand these days, and partly to what you're saying, the customer base is very different to what the "Land Rover" original brand was associated with. They've updated there range of vehicles but the brand hasn't necessarily been updated at the same time I see it as them playing a bit of catch up.

A blade from a stanley knife used with gloves can help, also if its on the steel block you can use a small hammer with a point or the edge of a hammer to tap the stubborn part of gasket and it will displace it and cause it to lift off. If its on aluminium I just use a a blade as above then rub it back carefully with some scotch bright pad.

I was going to go, but canned it due to the weird opening times, I should imagine thats what put off traders too.

As far as I know you can turn the immobiliser off by using a EKA (Emergency Key Access) this is a 4 digit number code you use the key to input the code in way of turning the key in the drivers door lock, user manual shows you how to do it. You can also plug into a testbook/nanocom you can turn off the immobiliser this way also - it will also potentially give you an indication if there's anything else stopping the start-up.

So I've made some good progress today, I've given up on the battery back up Siren, I've spent enough life tokens on that particular topic, I have however got the alternative Alarm Siren working so I'll settle for that. For info anyone else reading for future. From 96 onwards discovery was fitted with an OBDII port, and the great thing is you can plug a nanocom in and talk to the 10as unit. I was cheeky and used my mates one which had a Defender Td5 license but that matters not, just log it in as a td5 defender and it will open the test function of the 10as and even recognise it as a Discovery type. I successfully programmed 2 new fobs to the original 10as and then I had an alternative 10as which I programmed a new fob too as well. All my jobs for the Alarm are now done for now so here endeth this topic for now.😁👌

Awesome thanks you.