Dave W

I have a selection of part numbers for the ones I need BUT am struggling to figure out EXACTLY what is included in each kit. I have a late model rear door on a 90 which I don't have a key for so I need a barrel and key for it. The front doors and ignition are 300TDi/early TD5 style at the moment. I'd like to use the late model barrels/keys where the doors and the ignition all use the same key as used from VIN 2A622424 I will need replacement door handles to take the bigger barrels (I think I'm correct in saying that's all I need but verification would be nice !). The kits I am looking at are: CWB500630 - listed as "With steering lock 3 barrels/2 keys" I think I'm right in thinking that the CWB500630 has a steering lock with fitted barrel plus 3 additional barrels for the doors. So would fit the bill for what I need but there is also a CWB500640 which is more expensive and is variously described as "Lockset - Complete Vehicle" and "With steering lock 1 barrels/2 keys" which seem to be at odds with each other as I can't see how an ignition lock and a single barrel could be a "complete vehicle". Can anyone confirm which is the correct one and also if the fuel filler lock barrel can also be matched to the ignition key... ?

I probably ought to make it clear that this ONLY applies to tickets for the event and tickets for the event that included camping. Bookings for camping made with Billing that happened to coincide with the dates of the event aren't covered because the camping is still available so if you choose not to turn up because the event isn't running, that's your option. Billing have allowed people to transfer their camping bookings to the new event dates but you have no chance of a refund in those circumstances.

In UK law they are required to give a full refund if they change the dates of the show. Regardless of any T&Cs. From: http://www.adviceguide.org.uk/england/consumer_e/travel_leisure_and_food_e/consumer_event_tickets_e/if_the_organisers_cancel_the_event.htm Unfortunately travel/accommodation costs aren't normally covered unless you paid by credit card in which case you may be able to get a refund through your card issuer.

If you paid by credit card contact your card issuer. Regardless of their terms and conditions, their T&Cs cannot stop your rights under the distance selling regulations and your basic consumer rights. A credit note isn't acceptable or warrantied IMV because they can't offer an alternative to the services they originally sold you. It seems to me that "Live" are trying it on, personally that would make me even more determined to get a full refund.

No, on the Carling Off-On-On switches they are independent circuits but are configures as off - circuit 1 on - circuit 1 and 2 on I use a similar setup to that for my spotlights with a relay connected to each circuit. I can then have the spotlights off, the centre pair on or all four on. I can't have the outer pair on on their own. Because it wasn't complicated enough I used a second off-on-on switch in front of the spotlight switch to control if the spots were always off, on with main beam only or always on, I had to use a couple of diodes to stop the always on position feeding power back into the high beam circuit - which I think is what you are trying to do ?

If you're not using the FIdle output or you're upgrading it for use with a PWM, I use the original FIdle circuit to control the cooling fans and reroute the PWM FIdle through a spare pin. The FIdle output is identical to the fuel pump output in standard form and you normally end up modifying that circuit anyway. It;'s a habit I picked up when I was using v2.2 boards that didn't have the prototyping area or the spare pins that the v3 board has and I've pretty much stuck with it. The transistor is capable of handling 2 relays quite comfortably so if you have 2 fans I use a relay for each and a fuse for each so you have redundancy in the system should a relay fail or a fuse blow you should have at least one fan running.

I really would think twice about connecting breathers together, even more so when the breathers are for items with different fluids. When a gearbox/transfer box/axle component overheats it's not unusual for the oil to be thrown out of the breather. Joining them together not only causes potential problems with cross contamination but also makes it difficult to identify the cause of the problem.

I've never used it, I don't think it's necessary or gives any benefit on an MS install. Providing your map is matched to it being in use or not it doesn't seem to matter. Even Land Rover ditched it on later model V8s so presumably they couldn't see any benefit in it either. MS has enough options to reduce fuelling in overrun situations that having a pseudo mechanical variable fuel pressure as well is more likely to get in the way than provide any benefit IMV. I've always assumed it was introduced on the primitive EFi systems to try and compensate for limitations in the control systems.

I use a Ram mount for mine, holds it firmly off road. I used their "seat" mount which bolts under the front seat mount on a Defender and it works really well. The one I got works for both iPad and iPad 2. http://www.ram-mount.co.uk/device-mounts-apple-ipad-c-360_673.html

If it's a normal hydraulic ZF then it has 4 wires going to it through a single 4 way connector. The wires are arranged in pairs, which are connected to 2 switches in the gearbox. One pair of wires will be connected together when the gearbox is in reverse (reverse light), one pair of wires will be connected together when the gearbox is in park or neutral (start inhibit). No idea what the colours are I'm afraid but very simple to figure out which is which with a multimeter

Yes, you don't want this happening to you... At least the Britpart HD drag link is straight

The standard ones (both drag link and track bar) can bend due to "forcing" them with the power steering. You should avoid using "excessive" force when trying to turn the wheel against something. With strengthened arms you probably won't bend them in that way but you won't be doing the steering box any favours either so it's still not a good idea.

It's been discussed on here a lot in the past. Yes, they are Britpart but despite that they are actually very good. I've used them on my motor since 2005 and they've been fine, including 2 trips to Australia for the Outback Challenge. The TREs they supply are "variable", I've had some last for a couple of years and others a few months although they'd probably have got through an MOT OK, scrutineers tend to be stricter.

That's the one

The main thing with any P38 is making sure everything electrical works. Make sure you put it into low box and back again, (It's a servo motor system and can get stuck) Check the air con is charged and working, Cycle it through all suspension heights to check the height sensors. If it has electric seats make sure they are fully operational. On the V8, listen for any rattles from the cat. Check all the washers and wipers work - rear as well as front/headlamp (the rear washer pipe often gets crimped and stops it working - a real PITA to find and fix). Check the carpet, in the front footwell around the tunnel, for damp. The O rings on the heater deteriorate and coolant leaks down the side of the tunnel into the footwells. There used to be a really good Range Rover site with decent buyers guide on it - can't find it now though, perhaps someone else can find it and post a link.

I would have thought either would be better than a 110 200TDi. Even at 15MPG on LPG it would still be cheaper to run than a 200TDi getting 24MPG. The P38 Range Rover will get better MPG anyway than a 110 with the same engine, especially over 50MPH. The P38 has something called "aerodynamics" whereas the 110 treats air with contempt and just barges it out of the way. I get up to 22MPG in my 4 litre V8 P38 auto on a motorway run but combined it drops to around 18MPG or 16MPG if I really try hard In very rough figures for LPG knock 2MPG off the petrol MPG as, even with a sophisticated LPG system they all seem to lose around that much. Double it for the comparative diesel cost. On LPG in a manual P38 you're probably looking at the equivalent of around 32MPG on diesel, cost wise, 36MPG on a motorway run. The same engine and gearbox in a Discovery gave me 16-18MPG, the same engine and gearbox in a 90 gave me 12-16MPG, air resistance is a bitch. On a DSE I'd expect to get somewhere between 30MPG to 35MPG, as I said before, the cost of LPG locally relative to the cost of diesel can make the difference in cost. Having said that the V8 will be MUCH nicer to drive

From experience there will be very little in it in running costs, if anything the V8 on LPG will have a slight edge but that will depend on your local LPG suppliers and how aggressive they are on pricing. In some areas LPG suppliers tend to overprice the LPG, particularly if there's not much local competition. If you're in an area like that the sums may not add up for you. I would spend some time looking at the local LPG stations and what they are charging compared to the cost of diesel. The warm up time will probably give the V8 an advantage, the diesel will take MUCH longer to warm up, especially at low speeds/around town.

I've used the Gwynn Lewis ones and the Britpart HD ones, both are very good. Main difference is you can buy the GL ones individually whereas the Britpart HD ones are only available in pairs - not a problem when you first buy them but extra cost if you happen to bend one. GL ones come with better quality TREs but you pay extra for them. If you use a Disco 300 drop arm/drag link setup the GL steering damper clamp works fine with both GL (obviously !) and Britpart HD bars.

I'd second NavFree, it works well and, as the name suggests, it's free ! It has some neat features when you have internet access such as searching google for a place and grabbing the location information for you automatically so you can search for a pub name, for example, and navigate to that pub. The app doesn't need or use an internet connection normally as all the maps, post code lookups and POI are loaded onto the phone. The free version uses the open source map project so occasionally you get the odd glitch where one of the contributors has got it wrong - on the plus side you can correct any mistakes you find yourself. I've never had a problem with it though, it always gets me there. There is a paid for version of the app that is very similar but uses commercial maps instead of open source ones, SWMBO bought that for her iPhone.

I'm building an auxiliary system using one of these... http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/relays/sockets.php#box (Modular fuse and relay housing system). I'm using the 5 slot version. The maxi fuse module has a single 8mm bolt input that is connected to one end of each of the 6 fuse positions. I'm using one Maxi Fuse module as the first distribution step and then splitting the feed from three of the maxi fuses into a 20 way mini fuse module with the other 3 maxi fuses being available to feed the ARB compressor, fridge and a couple of 12v DIN sockets. I'm using a 6 way micro relay module and a normal/maxi relay module with the maxi relay being used for the ARB compressor. The micro relays are being used for lights and anything else I think of. I've yet to decide what the remaining slot will be used for, I'm considering another Maxi Fuse module with a feed from the main battery.

One other thing, do yourself a BIG favour and make sure you can access the tank unit without taking the tank out of the vehicle. Cut an inspection hatch in the floor if needed.

You can use a 300TDi Discovery in tank unit (plastic tank version), it doesn't have a built in swirl pot but that shouldn't be a problem unless you run low fuel levels off road. There is a RoW tank unit that does have a swirl pot, designed for use with a 300TDi engine in a Defender with a TD5 style tank, that would probably be ideal. I use the 300TDi Disco one on SWMBO's 90 as I'm using an external pump for the TD5 but I used it because a mate had a scrap Disco so it was free An easier way still is to discard the external pump and use a V8 in tank pump unit from a Discovery or P38. If you use one form a Thor engined vehicle, be aware that the fuel rail will need to be modified slightly as the regulator is built into the pump with no return pipe. I used a P38 4.6 pump/sender unit and modified it to fit (the 90 tank isn't as deep as a P38 tank so it needs to be shortened - not a difficult job. I used this method when I was running a 3.9 V8 from a TD5 tank. 8mm I/D pipework is "normal" for V8 systems and the 300TDi unit uses the same size.

Protection and Performance do their own snorkel that matches the cage. I bought one with the cage for SWMBOs 90 but not fitted it yet so no pics. They also do adaptors for other snorkels that moves the snorkel forward. The P&P one can come with an ARB top (big round clear plastic vortex thing) or you can fit a Safari top to it. pics here... http://www.ppcages.com/?page_id=194

This is mine, two inline sockets are mounted in the tub next to the rear off side lights. When the tow bar (and electrics) are removed there is nothing vulnerable left behind. Rear door open... Rear door shut...