Dave W

I used a full TD5 setup bar the engine harness for my wife's 90. I then modified/combined a TD5 and V8 engine harness and put the Megasquirt and LPG ECUs under the driver's seat, tapping into the TD5 wiring without cutting it to support the V8 requirements. This has since paid dividends because a change of use has led to the V8 being replaced with a TD5 and having most of the wiring both present and unmolested made the task a LOT easier as it was more or less plug and play. I used a variable resistor to bridge the TD5 ECU wiring to support the temperature gauge, I could then adjust the gauge to read centrally when the V8 was at normal operating temperature. The TD5 ECU takes the input from the coolant temp sensor and outputs a modified value in part because the TD5 temp sensor, without modification, would make the Defender temp gauge work backwards !

TD5 and 300TDi harnesses are very different but if you're not using something just leave the plugs alone. If it's a TD5 or a 300TDi with an immobiliser then you'll need to provide an earth for the starter relay.

If it's near the MAF I'd have thought the Ambient Air temperature sensor would be the first one to check - the sensor is on the side of the air filter box, heater matrix side.

Just resurrecting/updating this thread as I have just gone through the process of installing a TD5 with Compushift again and it's fresh in my mind so hopefully it will help someone else, or me if I have to do another one in a couple of years time ! The tacho output from the TD5 ECU is a 5v pulse and, when the engine isn't running it outputs a dummy RPM signal of around 200 RPM. There was a bit of head scratching going on over the whole 5v/12v issue and it seems that the prototype/early ZF Compushifts which myself and Patrick were involved with would work off the 5v tacho signal without a problem but the production/later ones, as Dave says, don't respond to the 5v signal. To get the tacho working on the later Compushift I used a circuit similar to the top circuit in FFs post. I used 1k resistors on the base and collector connections and substituted the 2N2222A with a 2N3904. Another difference between the earlier and the later Compushifts is that the later ones will allow you to go into setup when the RPM is below (at a guess) 300 RPM. On the earlier (5v compatible) versions you had to disconnect the rpm signal into the Compushift to go into setup - which was a tad annoying with the TD5 ECU putting out the "dummy" 200 ish RPM signal when the engine isn't running. The Compushift has had the "Pulses per Rev" setting replaced with a "Number of Cylinders" setting which, for the TD5, needs setting to 4. As a reference a TD5 normally idles around the 750 rpm mark.

I'm considering adding a fuel pressure gauge, at least on a temporary basis, to my TD5 conversion as I'm not convinced the pump is coping in full throttle conditions. I'm using the same pump I use on my 5.7 V8 petrol engine and it seems to cope fine on that so it's probably just paranoia but it'd be good to know for certain what's going on if only so I can look elsewhere. Anyway, the best place to put the gauge would be between the fuel filter (a 300TDI fuel filter housing) and the fuel rail input. Does anyone know what size thread the output or the input(s) are on a 300TDi fuel filter housing ?

You could use a flush fit aero cap, you can get them integrated with a "filler spout" that allows you to connect a pipe to it. Get the type without a breather. Something like this one... http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p1830/FLUSH-FITTING-FUEL-CAP-3.15-O.D.-WITH-FUNNEL/product_info.html The important part of the design is that you feed the tank's filler breather (25mm ish diameter pipe) up to the filler and feed it in higher than the pump spout will reach. Without that breather the fuel will airlock at the bend where the filler pipe goes over the chassis making it a real pain to fill the tank. I prefer fitting multiple tanks with separate fillers rather than joining them all together, if nothing else it means each tank can be used in isolation if one gets damaged/holed.

It seems to work on SWMBO's 90. 15p engine and loom connected to an earlier bulkhead loom. For the bulk of the "important" connections the two looms are separate anyway with the engine loom going to one ECU plug and the bulkhead loom going to the other. The two connectors that join the looms together in front of the bulkhead seem to be the same regardless of year - more than can be said for the chassis loom !

Running the GEMS coils direct from MS is pretty straight forward. For simplicity and to avoid electrical interference problems in the MS ECU I build a small "ignition driver" into a small sealed aluminium box in the engine bay. Mount the 4 coil drivers in there and the MS is only dealing with logic level signals. For redundancy/spares the driver box is connected to the rest of the loom via a 9 way connector so the box can be easily unplugged/replaced should a coil driver fail although the "new" BIP drivers are pretty much bomb proof anyway. EDIS can also drive the GEMS coils directly BTW. As you are running GEMS you MIGHT be able to run EDIS from the OEM crank sensor. Some variations of the OEM systems used a 36-1 crank sensor and the crank sensor is a VR sensor, the same as EDIS uses. Not sure where the missing tooth sits relative to TDC though. MS2 has a 4 wire stepper motor output for closed loop idle which, in this case, would allow you to use the OEM idle air valve. The MS2-Extra closed loop idle control also uses a much improved algorithm over the MS1-Extra code versions (especially the last ones !). It could be used to control an LPG fuelling stepper (most of them are actually repurposed IACs anyway) but not "out of the box" as that would require specific code to be written to convert the VE-bins and EGO correction into a stepper motor output.

The main decision you have to make is "to EDIS or not to EDIS" other than that it's all pretty straight forward. MS can't control the LPG fuelling BUT it does make a really good companion to the LPG ECU. You use the 12v feed from the LPG solenoid circuit to switch maps automatically in the MS. You set the secondary ignition map to suit the LPG and the secondary fuelling to all zeros, that way you don't need the normal "injector relays" that most LPG kits use to disable the petrol injectors. You get a really smooth changeover that way because you can set a changeover time in MS so that it can reduce the fuelling to 0 over. say, half a second while the LPG system gets going. You can use the knock sensors but need some additional hardware to convert the sensor output into something the MS can use. If you don't use EDIS then you can use the crank position sensor to drive the MS. Normally I don't use EDIS as, to my mind, it's just extra carp you don't need HOWEVER on an LPG system it's worth considering because the tach output from the EDIS may be compatible with the LPG system tach input meaning the LPG and EDIS will run without MS should the worst happen. Having said that I always build for redundancy where I can and the only problem I've had on an MS/LPG system was actually the LPG ECU due to a bad connector at the ECU. If you want to run the engine pretty much as per factory then MS3 is probably the way to go although it might be a bit "bleeding edge" for you - depends how adventurous you are ! MS2 will just about do the job but it can be a bit of a faff trying to get enough inputs/outputs sorted, particularly if you want to add fan control. MS2 and MS3 will control the OEM idle valve, with MS1 you'll need to add a different valve.

For TD5 wiring the simplest thing to do is hook the inhibitor circuit into the immobiliser wiring. The immobiliser provides an earth path for the relay when it's disarmed via the black/orange wire at the "green box". Cut the wire and connect the two inhibitor wires in circuit with it.

Simplest way is to use the start inhibitor to make/break the earth side of the starter relay that's mounted in the bulkhead fuse panel. The start inhibitor is a simple make/break switch so you can put it in circuit with the switching circuit for the relay. I use the earth side of the relay because that way you have the option of just running one wire to the relay and earthing the other one. The other two wires on the switch are the reverse light switch so just connect them to the wires that used to go to the manual gearbox reverse light switch.

Is it the "green box" immobiliser/alarm ? If so it should re-sync with the keyfob when you press the unlock button on the fob 3 (or is it 5?) times in a row. It's unlikely to have lost the fob coding, more likely it's just lost sync.

From the gap I'd second checking the locating pin. It's located at the bottom left as you look from the rear and it's not uncommon to end up with a locating pin in both the transfer box and the gearbox when they come from different sources. The "cross drilled" thing I'd always assumed to be a manual gearbox thing, The only variation on an auto I've come across is between the Borg Warner and LT230 output shafts but that would give you a much bigger gap than 1/2 an inch and would be unlikely on a Disco 1 auto box.

In case it's of any use to anyone in the future, I finally found a suitable Defender to crawl all over and it now makes more sense. The top connector on the fuel cooler is connected to the bottom hose via a T piece inserted into the bottom hose. This is a separate plastic T piece rather than one moulded into the pipe, very similar to the way the header tank feed pipe is T'd into the water pump hose above the thermostat housing (probably the same part number, although the part doesn't appear to be listed anywhere). The lower connector connects to the front of the two apparent outputs at the bottom of the radiator. The "output" pipe at the rear of the radiator isn't used and would appear to be a "dummy" pipe as nothing is connected to it on the one I looked at. I'm going to check on mine and make sure it's also a dummy pipe otherwise I'll have to blank it off. As the bottom hose is the feed hose from the radiator and is bypassed when the engine is cold, that means there is no flow through the fuel cooler until the engine warms up which kind of makes sense and that also explains the bleed screw on the top connector/hose of the fuel cooler. As I've removed the EGR cooler from the front of the engine I was going to feed the oil cooler return through the fuel cooler but I'll now connect it to the pipes at the bottom of the header tank where the return from the EGR cooler would have originally gone to the 4 way connector.

I pulled the complete V8, auto box and transfer box out of mine in one. I then reversed the operation with the TD5, Auto box and transfer box in one lump. I removed all the levers and the handbrake drum and assembly from the rear of the transfer box first. Did it with just two of us and an engine crane on the drive. As well as removing the front panel, remove the bumper if you are using a crane as it gives you an extra 6 inches or so reach. Removing as much of the gear change mechanism as you can will make life a lot easier to get it under the bulkhead. Putting the TD5 in you'll find it's a close fit as the turbo goes through the gap between the wings, I removed the driver's side engine mount to give us a bit of a safety margin as we didn't want to scratch the inner wings. It will fit without but we only had 1/2 an inch each side with the engine mount in place.

I'm using a ZF HP24 that I bought from Ashcrofts, The Compushift was one I picked up cheap as it was ordered for someone and then not needed. If I get the chance to have a play I may well try using a MegaShift to control the gearbox in the long term as that would be a good cheap alternative at under £100 so I can carry it as a spare (I'm intending doing some long distance expedition work so spares and redundancy are a major consideration). I'll get it running on the CompuShift first though. As I am using the standard "old style" gearbox chassis mounts the HP24, being longer, is a better fit than the HP22 as it puts the transfer box in the same place as it was with the V8 while the engine is in the standard TD5 Defender position so all the plastic covers, pipes and airbox fit without any problems, the V8 propshafts fit and I've been able to use one gearbox mount as is. For the nearside mount I've modified a standard TD5 Manual Defender gearbox side mount and modified it to fit the V8 chassis mount. @Western: Thanks for the post, unfortunately that shows the old style cylindrical fuel cooler setup, the same as the ones that are shown in Rave. I've even managed to get access to the online Land Rover manual now (the one that replaced Rave) and that also shows the two old style fuel cooler arrangements. I can see me having to resort to going to the local main stealers and seeing if I can find a Defender of the right age and crawl all over it.

I'm in the middle of a TD5 conversion, changing SWMBO's 90 from a V8 auto with LPG to a TD5 auto. The engine is a late engine with a 15P prefix, it has EGR and a square fuel cooler. Most of the coolant system is pretty straight forward given the pipes that came with the engine BUT there weren't any coolant pipes connected to the fuel cooler and I can't see how it would be plumbed in. I only have two spare connections at the bottom of the radiator and the two connections on the fuel cooler - I'm not convinced it's as simple as connecting them together as I can't see how it would get any coolant flow like that. The radiator was bought separately from the engine so it's also possible that the connections aren't both used. Has anyone got a copy of a coolant flow diagram for this "square fuel cooler" version ? (Rave has 2 diagrams which show the old cylindrical fuel cooler which is, unfortunately, no help at all). If anyone has a 2005 on TD5 Defender, could you have a look and try and see where the two pipes go to ? The fuel cooler is located roughly halfway along the engine, mounted to the inlet manifold on the RHS. There are two fuel pipes going backwards and two coolant pipes coming out towards the front. The top of the two coolant pipes has a small joiner section with a bleed valve in the top. I need to know where the two coolant pipes go to and, if they both go to the bottom RHS of the radiator (as I'm currently guessing) which one goes to the front of the radiator and which to the back. Pictures would be great but there's not a lot of room to get in there given the amount of "junk" that surrounds a TD5 !

But then you would think as an "expert" he'd know that cages aren't required for MSA challenge events so his "field day" would make him look like a complete donkey wouldn't it ?

No, ALRC made up their own regs. There is some overlap in design as many of the ALRC cage designs were shoehorned into the Blue Book at the last minute when the ALRC suddenly realised all their cages were about to be made none compliant. The ALRC mounting systems and requirements are very different to the MSA and FIA requirements. As an example, my Range Rover was fitted with an FIA and MSA certified CDS roll cage which meant I could take part in Hill Rallies etc... however ALRC regulations meant I couldn't take part in ALRC trials unless I added an additional cage made out of Blue Band and welded a bloody great girder across the rear floor. The MSA Blue Book is available here... http://www.msauk.org/site/cms/contentviewarticle.asp?article=1122

The biggest "weakness" of Blue Band other than weight and construction is the formulation of the steel. I can't remember the precise lengths/quantities as it's a loooong time since I looked at this in any detail but from what I remember... The BS requirement for Blue Band requires a minimum carbon content percentage over something like a 10 metre length (maybe longer). This means that the steel can be inconsistent as the carbon content of the steel can vary considerably along any given length and still meet the BS requirement. The variation in carbon content means that it is acceptable within the blue band specification to have weak spots with very low carbon content. I've seen some evidence of this both when bending it and also in finished cages that have been involved in minor impacts. I wouldn't use ALRC specifications for anything, the paper isn't even that soft, You'd be better off looking at FIA regulations or MSA unless you anticipate competing in an ALRC event. Most of the ALRC clubs don't even use the ALRC regulations !

If you need a "stop gap" and don't have any luck elsewhere, when I had a similar problem I made up an "adaptor" by cutting the standard pipe and brazing a male hydraulic fitting onto it. My temporary fix has lasted 4 years so far and has outlasted the steering box !

If there is power to the ECU you should be able to connect to it with MT. I'd start by checking the earth connection is good. A bad/disconnected earth would explain the symptoms you describe - the fuel pump relay is one of many circuits that get switched to earth and if that earth doesn't exist it will reset the CPU continuously.

In purely mechanical terms you can put a 3.9 ZF onto a TD5 using the bell housing, torque convertor and flex plate assy from a Disco 2 TD5. You will also need to modify the throttle peddle to provide the "kickdown" facility by adding a mechanical cable to it. Not certain but I think the oil pump/torque convertor fitting is the same between the two... if not you may have to swap that too. In driving terms it won't be a particularly nice conversion to drive because the box will change gear at the wrong rpm. Just how bad it'll be I'm not sure as I've not tried it myself. You might be able to tweak it a bit with the kick down cable adjustment to improve it. I'd hazard a guess that the gearbox would keep the rpm a bit too low when locked up and a bit too high when it's not which would make cruising both hard work and fuel inefficient. If you're electrically minded and don't mind working on the bleeding edge a bit, you could drive an electronic D2 box using a Megashift (gearbox controller spinoff project from the Megasquirt project). That would give you a much cheaper way of controlling the electronic ZF than using a Compushift. More here... http://www.msgpio.co...hift/4L60e.html I was going to go that route myself (and may still do at some point) but I was fortunate enough to get hold of a cheap Compushift unit instead.

There is an RPM output at the ECU but it has nothing to do with the throttle ! Pin 19 on the black ECU connector has the RPM output. If you don't have ABS there may be no connector/wire to it. If you do have ABS it will have a yellow/black wire to it. The output from the ECU is VERY low (which is why normal rev counters can't be used).

It's better to fit a pointer of some kind to do it accurately. Mine doesn't have a pointer either and I struggled for ages trying to get an accurate reference point that didn't change depending on where you viewed it from. Having a pointer next to the pulley made life a whole lot easier.