Dave W

That would depend on the type of pump... The earlier types that go into a metal tank don't have a swirl pot as part of the pump, the swirl pot is built into the tank and the pump goes inside the swirl pot when it's installed. The type that is used on plastic fuel tanks (later Discos, P38s etc...) are a single unit incorporating a swirl pot as part of the pump assembly. In all cases the fuel return goes back to the swirl pot. The plastic versions have another variation (Thor engine) that doesn't have an external return pipe, the regulator is built into the pump assembly so the return is "internal" and it has a single pipe to feed the engine fuel rail.

This is mine, I've offset mine to the left so there's enough room to get two isolation solenoids in at the side of them. I use a piece of fairly rigid plastic sheeting that sits on top of the batteries for additional security, particularly when the seat box cover is being removed/replaced. It's one of the cheap universal rear mud flaps that most of the motor sport specialists sell.

On my Defender challenge truck I got some inline female connectors that live inside the back body and made up some extension leads for the hitch. That way the sockets the caravan plugs into are permanently mounted on the hitch but when the hitch is removed there is nothing left at the back of the vehicle to get ripped off/damaged. On the Defender the leads go through the seals on the rear door to the sockets on the inside of the vehicle although you MAY have better door sells/gaps on a Disco !

They aren't very noisy at all without a silencer, the turbo takes away most of the noise, you probably won't hear the noise of the exhaust over the clatter of the tractor engine up front.

You can use a PU adhesive (SikaFlex, Tiger Seal etc...) to seal it. It's used primarily as a body seal on vehicles but has the advantage that it's "passive" if/when it comes in contact with fuels. Probably best not to use it as a gasket sealant if you ever want to remove the sender but you can use it on the outside with the sender in place. DO NOT USE ANY FORM OF SILICONE/RTV SEALANT NEAR FUEL SYSTEMS. Silicon/RTV sealants will react really badly when they come into contact with fuel. They form a jelly in the fuel that clogs filters and even the smallest contamination can take ages to clear out.

Assuming it's a TD5 90 there is a breather pipe, as already mentioned, that goes up into the wheel arch at the rear nearside. It comes from a "roll over" valve on top of the tank. If you look into the rear wheel arch you should see the pipe clipped vertically inside the wheel arch to the rear of the wheel.

It's part of the eyebrows.

So it's using twin throttles into a single plenum ? That should rule out any airflow balance issues. Is the fuel rail a standard fuel rail - wondering if there could be a pressure difference with a higher pressure on the RHS than the left. With a single cam I can't see a cam timing issue effecting one side only. Have you tried increasing the number of injections pre cycle in MS to see if it makes any difference ? Changing the injection events to 4 per cycle alternating will help even out any leaching across the plenum. Alternating helps balance the pressures out.

Twin plenum ? If the fuelling is balanced are you sure the throttles are balanced ? Are the plenums split left/right or are they cross connected ?

A further note... be very careful using the coolant diagrams as, despite what they might say, they don't properly cover the later EU3 Defender setup with the rectangular fuel cooler. I had all sorts of problems figuring out how the fuel cooler was supposed to be plumbed in and nobody on here or anywhere else could help. In the end I found a suitably aged Defender and traced the pipework myself. All the coolant diagrams I have found show the old style fuel cooler with a T connector at one end. The later rectangular fuel cooler uses a completely different coolant flow with a T connector into the bottom hose on one side and a hose to the bottom, front, connector on the radiator. The engine facing bottom pipe on the radiator is blanked off internally.

The heat exchanger output goes to the 4 way connector just below the expansion tank. When I did mine I removed the 4 way connector (the input for the heat exchanger is a small size compared to the rest) and replaced it with two 3 way T connectors joined together (on the grounds that I couldn't find a suitable 4 way connector). I then rerouted the output from the oil filter housing directly into this setup. The feed from the oil fitter housing is routed all the way around the back of the engine in, mostly, rigid steel pipework. I simply replaced the last part of the pipework with a rubber pipe to go from the front of the engine to the bottom of the coolant reservoir. I wouldn't block off the pipe as the lack of circulation could cause an air lock, removing the oil cooling.

The guarantee is payable by all current members if the company/club goes under leaving outstanding debts, you can set the amount to anything you like but for a club £1 per member is the norm. Your membership fees need to cover the various admin expenses for the club and it's worth knowing that membership fees are not taxable when you file your annual accounts to companies house and the tax man. Normal admin costs for a year would include: Accountants fee (unless you have someone in the club who can file your annual accounts) MSA fee (around £60 per annum) Companies House annual return (£15) Postage and printing costs Public Liability Insurance (unless you are happy with the MSA cover) Club equipment costs - depending on the type of events you run. Bank charges (some banks offer a 0 charge account for clubs) Processing fees for online payments Web site hosting costs (if you have one) You then need to set entry fees such that the entry fee covers the cost of the land and the cost of the permit/insurance from the MSA. membership fees provide a contingency should you miscalculate the entry fee.

If you're thinking of becoming an MSA recognised club then I would contact them first. They will supply you with an outline of what they require as far as the constitution and formation of the club is concerned and you can use that as a starting point. Many motor sport clubs start be creating a "Company Limited by Guarantee" and all members of the club become members of the company. MSA recognition will give you some cover for competitions and a basic level of public liability cover for other activities. Feel free to PM me with any specific questions you have.

As the TD5 defender system is pretty much self contained I wouldn't have thought it too much of a problem to retro fit it. I haven't gone into too much detail but from what I remember of the TD5 wiring the only "link" between the engine ECU and the ABS ECU is an RPM signal. The signal is a 5v pulse so you'd need to devise some way of producing that although a fairly simple circuit could be used to convert the W signal from the alternator. You might need to convert the speedo to a TD5 Defender speedo and speed sensor as I think the ABS ECU also takes a feed form the speed sensor.

One other property of PU adhesive that's been VERY useful to me over the years is that it's inert to pretty much anything you find on a vehicle including petrol. I've used it as a fuel proof gasket sealant/glue for fitting and sealing fuel senders, extra pickup/return pipes, vent pipes etc to the top of custom ali tanks. Try that with silicon and you end up with a lovely jelly in your fuel filters.

What is it with this forum and "he who cannot be named". Someone asks a technical question about wheel bearings and gets 14 replies of which 12 have absolutely no relevance to the question. It's like watching Life of Brian.. "Nobody gets stoned until I say so even, and I want to make this absolutely clear, even if they do say Britpart".

I wouldn't do it. I think you'll end up with something that is frustrating to drive and sups fuel almost as quickly as the V8. The V8 and TD5 have very different requirements when it comes to gear changes and you'd find the TD5 with a V8 gearbox spends all it's time in the wrong rev range making driving it a very frustrating experience. However, if you really wanted to do it then you'd need a TD5 auto bell housing to connect the gearbox and engine together and a TD5 torque convertor. You'd need a TD5 auto flywheel, boss and flex plate. You'd need to rig up a cable from the throttle to the kick down cable. You can use the existing gearbox mounts, cut the V8 engine mounts off the chassis and weld the TD5 ones on. If you want a decent TD5 auto setup then Ashcrofts web site is a good starting point and they list everything you need.

Britpart bearings aren't that bad, I've run them for years without any problems but mentioning Britpart on this forum is never a good idea because just about any query you raise will get swamped by a kind of smug hate. At the end of the day it's a taper bearing so pretty much any bearing can be tightened up enough to take out all the movement when it's new (assuming it's the correct bearing of course !) regardless of the box it came in. If you've still got movement AND you've tightened the bearing up then the problem is most likely elsewhere. If you can, get an assistant to stand on the brake pedal while you check for movement. If the play goes away when they stand on the brakes then it's the wheel bearings, if not then it's not the wheel bearings. Top and bottom movement can be caused by the swivel bearings. You can normally feel if it's that by placing a finger against the edge of the swivel seal and the ball but the brake pedal method is easier.

As has already been said, the same think happened years ago and lots of independents had to change their names and advertising so that "Joe Bloggs Land Rover" became "Joe Bloggs 4x4 - Land Rover Specialist". At the same time they also cracked down on spurious items having the Land Rover logo on them such as mugs, T-shirts and so on that were being sold with the Land Rover logo without being sanctioned by Land Rover. In the UK I doubt it will make any difference apart from perhaps newer companies that have been created since then. Yorkshire Off Road Club got caught up in the last lot, we were going to be Yorkshire Land Rover Club but nobody at Land Rover was brave enough at the time to sanction the name due to the legal department being all jittery so we went with Yorkshire Off Road Club instead. It took 6 months before the name was finally sanctioned by which time we decided we preferred Off Road Club anyway so stuck with it.

Changing the engine and gearbox you just notify DVLA via the log book of the new engine number, capacity and fuel type. I believe they may ask for a receipt for the engine, last time I did this (a few months ago) I just sent a copy of the receipt anyway and the log book came back with the amended details.

I nearly bought McNamara diffs when I changed from Quaife diffs, wanting "proper" locking diffs. I really liked the look of them and was quite keen to buy. The reason I didn't and ended up going with ARBs was simply because ARBs were easily available in the UK, had spares and warranty support and weren't stupid money. McNamara at the time met none of the above criteria and were, at best, reluctant to talk to potential customers and, at worst, they were downright rude. From my experience I would say that the reason ARB "won" the diff wars was that, not being the best doesn't matter when you're the only real player. Not sure about the scrapiron influence as my experience was before scrapiron appeared on the scene but I doubt scrapiron made them any cheaper. Price wise, regardless of customer service issues, I vaguely remember the McNamara coming it at around £1100 each and the ARB around £450 at the time. Most of that cost was because they had no European distributors.

Or just use a MegaShift because the hardware, firmware and the software to configure and tune your gear changes are already available for free or very cheaply (in the case of the hardware). Like any open source project, the more people that use it and adapt it to their gearbox the easier it is for others to follow.

I've had the problem with Britpart brake lights, There seem to be a few different brands (presumably from the same manufacturer) that use a fairly "soft" black plastic. In the end I found some AllMakes ones that were a white brittle plastic that fixed the problem. I've also had lenses melt slightly on brake lights, including genuine part ones, I suspect having an auto doesn't help as you're far more likely to sit with the brakes on for extended periods of time.

Yes, make sure you connect the battery supply to the correct one - the one on it's own. The correct circuits are then fed through the 100A link fuse. If you connect it to the wrong one you may blow the 100A link fuse at some inconvenient point of time such as when you turn the lights on. The two additional connections are fused through the 100A link but that's all so make sure anything you connect has it's own fuse.

There are three connections there. The feed from the battery that supplies the fuse box connects to 1 of them. Of the 2 spares you have, one is used for the TD5 heater circuit, the other is used for the heated windscreen.