Dave W

It would be worth looking at where the stiffeners run relative to the tank/tub. Mine is a TD5 rear tub and it could be something as simple as the stiffeners being in slightly the wrong place for the tank on your tub. The tank has a raised area in the middle that has to slot between the two stiffeners. It might be just the angle the pics are taken at but the rearmost stiffener on yours looks to be further forwards than the one on mine and that would certainly cause a problem as the stiffener would be sat on the raised part of the tank instead of being just behind it. I can take some measurements of their positions tonight if it'll help. On Les' first picture above you can see the raised area and the marks where the bottom of the stiffener has been resting on the lower part of the tank either side of the raised area.

I've had a quick look at mine - can't see a great deal from the side but on mine there is a gap of around 5mm between the strengthening bar and the chassis bracket/support. The gap is filled towards the inside of the chassis by a foam/rubber pad that sits between the two (you can't see the pad on the picture as it's too far in from the outside). Not easy to get a picture when it's raining and the wheel is still on but hope this helps Ignore the extra bit of wiring loom running on the top of the chassis, that's for the LPG system IIRC. It's just tucked into the convenient gap, the body isn't actually sat on it !

Haven't seen this posted so thought I'd share it... http://www.salisbury...to_remain_open/ I wonder if he fancies a job in Yorkshire....

That does seem a lot... I'll have a look under mine when I can and take some pics. Mine is a Richard's Chassis too, V8 with TD5 rear fuel tank mountings so should be similar to yours.

Resistance (or lack of) is the important factor, especially so if you're running a 12v winch. Some welding cables have a large cross section BUT also have comparatively high resistance per metre so will reduce the available power of your winch. Remember a powered up winch under load is akin to a dead short across the battery, the only thing that limits the current is the capability of the battery to supply it and the resistance of the cables/connections to the motor.

There are a few ways of "hacking" a paypal account and any other password "secured" login. The main ones, however, are phishing, brute force attacks and keyloggers. Packet sniffing on WiFi or other networks is certainly possible but there are far easier ways that don't require the criminal to be in the same area as the victim. Keyloggers are the easiest for the hackers to use. Most people have anti virus installed and think they're protected from malware. Keyloggers can be installed on your machine very easily through compromised web sites (especially if you're using a dodgy browser, such as Insecure Explorer) and Anti Virus software won't pick them up, either when they are installed or when they "phone home" with your data. The best thing about keyloggers, from the criminals POV, is that the first thing most people do when they find their account has been compromised is go onto their computer and change the password, supplying the criminals with the new password at the same time. In the past I've seen (and notified the site owners) keylogger code installed on a number of compromised web sites, including some of the major 4x4 web sites so don't think you're safe just because you don't spend all your time searching for sites which include livestock and scantily clad young ladies. Mobile devices open up a whole new arsenal for the criminal fraternity, particularly with the "open" app stores that don't require peer review.

I'm not sure you'll have enough headroom for either an engine crane or a telehandler. The engine is pretty tall and you'll need the height of the engine plus at least 6 inches to allow for the lifting arm/straps. With an engine crane you need to bear in mind that the arm of the crane will likely be angled down to get under the roof which will limit things even more. I've done similar tasks in the past and I've ended up using scaffolding planks to make a long ramp and sliding the engine on it's sump, takes at least two people to safely drag the engine and keep it stable but the engine can be loaded and unloaded that way, just be VERY careful. If the engine is any distance away it might be a lot simpler and cheaper to get it strapped to a pallet and collected/delivered via one of the pallet shippers (I normally use parcel2go).

If it's any help I had to "compress" mine to get the tub to fit, that's why you don't need a strap to hold the tank in - it's compressed between the tub and the cradle. That's also why the cradle and tank are a complete nightmare to get in and out of the vehicle once the body is on. I have created an access hatch/panel directly above the fuel pump in mine after the fuel sender unit failed and I naively thought It'd be a "two minute" job to drop the cradle and tank, change the sender over and put the tank back in again. It's a complete ball ache of a job because the rear tub compresses the tank which pushes down on the cradle which sits on top of the chassis brackets.

You can import routes directly from an email attachment.

Ouch, that has gone up then - that's the problem with the app store, once you've bought something the price goes off the app and is replaced with an "Install" button. Looking through my iTunes receipts though it cost me £9.99 so more than I thought but considerably cheaper than now !

You're kind of right although it does actually give you a "narrow band" around stoich where it does tell you the AFR it's just as it gets outside that "narrow band" in the middle it falls off a cliff edge simply indicating too rich or too lean. Some narrow band sensors are "narrower" than others too. Which reminds me, thinking about the OP, you're not using the Land Rover lambda sensors are you ??? If you are that may be your problem as they don't work in the same way as "normal" narrow band lambda sensors, working off a completely different principle and voltage range to "normal" ones.

70% is way too much for EGO control, On a properly mapped engine 10% is more than enough, 70% will leave your mixture all over the place as the "swings" either side of 14.7 will be huge and take too long to recover from. If you're fuelling is going too lean when you open the throttle then either your map is too lean or you don't have the acceleration enrichment set up properly. Concentrate on getting your fuelling tuned in first then when it's running at or around 14.7 AFR throughout the rpm range increase the acceleration enrichment slightly to overcome any hesitation when you hit the throttle. If you have a misfire then that needs sorting first, have you tried changing out a coil pack ?

Memory Map for iOS is very good, especially if you have a PC version of Memory Map with maps already as you can transfer all the maps you have for the PC to the iOS version. If you have more than one iOS device it's worth knowing that you only need to buy one copy of the app (ISTR it's about £5). I use it on my iPhone when I'm out on my MTB and on an iPad 2 when I'm green laning or doing navigational events. For Android, ViewRanger works pretty well and full 50K mapping for the UK comes in at around £90 and I believe you can use the maps/application on more than one device.

Did they try the fast idle test rather than a static idle test ? The fast idle test allows the lambda correction to work if you have it configured and is usually easier to pass although you should be able to pass both. EGO correction at low engine speeds isn't very effective so you wouldn't normally have it enabled below about 1200 rpm. What age is the engine and vehicle, are you sure they're testing it as the correct age ? I've had testers test my vehicles as a cat equipped vehicle, for example, when the vehicle doesn't have them fitted and doesn't require cats. Reducing the req fuel setting for emissions is really a BAD thing to do. You're adjusting fuelling throughout the range when you only need to adjust the areas around the idle. It sounds like you've weakened out the mixture to far to try and get the HC right that you're fuel map is now completely screwed. You should never touch the req fuel setting once you have an engine running properly throughout it's range. I'd concentrate on getting the mixture right at idle using your lambda sensor. If the MOT station are friendly I'd also run a comparison between their probe and your lambda sensor. If your lambda sensor shows a good mix and their probe shows it as very weak then maybe you have a duff lambda sensor. Usually though lambda sensors tend to start reading leaner as they age rather than richer so there is a tendency to overfuel to compensate. As for the AFR going red when you use the throttle, that is possibly normal, it depends which way it's going. You'd normally expect your acceleration enrichment to give a rich mixture as you open the throttle which should settle to normal once the throttle position is stable.

I'd make a log of the engine from "normal" to when it starts giving you problems and have a close look at the temperatures you are logging (both IAT and CLT) and the fuelling. The most likely is that you have a problem with one or the other temperatures and the fuelling is being messed up as a result. Post up the log file and msq and I'm sure someone will be able to help point out where the problem lies.

Something else.

An iPad version is planned at some point, not sure when though, probably after I get the MS2-Extra support finished. The next version will be the MS2-Extra release so iPad native support is likely to be next but one. iPad support is "just" a case of sorting out a suitable UI that make sensible use of the extra screen real estate and the fact that iPads are more landscape oriented than iPhones and iPods.

The 4.2 would have had a metric pump originally, any Range Rover engine post 1985 (ish) should have a metric pump. It may be that the hose you have is already a custom made one as, when fitting the 4.2 they'd have either had to find and fit an imperial pump or make up a pipe to suit. I'd have thought a pump off a 3.9 none serpentine would fit assuming the 4.2 has a similar belt arrangement.

If you want to use 6mm the best thing to do is buy a length of 6mm x 100mm bar. Much easier to manage and cut usable lengths that way.

The outerwear filters aren't waterproof as in keeping water out of the filter - how could they be when they have to let air through ? They aren't designed as anything more than a pre-filter to keep the largest particles (sand/mud) from clogging up the main filter. Having said that though they do seem to stop most of the rain getting in as it tends to run off them more than soak through them when the engine is turned off. Even more so if you use an oiled filter as the outerwear gets "oiled" form the filter and looks like a waxed jacket after a while. Spray the jetwash at one though and you'll need to install a drain tap in the snorkel - I have one fitted at the lowest point of my snorkel with a "water trap" but then my snorkel runs down to chassis level at the bottom of the pipe behind the cab so the lowest point is conveniently placed a long way from the engine.

ERR 6566 is the assembly from a Thor V8 which includes a mounting bracket and 2 coils. ERR6045 is the part number for a coil on it's own. I don't think the bracket is available on it's own. With the discount I get on LR parts the assembly comes in cheaper than the cost of two coils. It's a while since I bought one burt last time I did it worked out at about £110 for the assembly. The individual coils were a really bad idea and most were replaced with the later coil assembly.

Regarding the map switchover, it can be used to change both fuelling and ignition but you can't change ego settings etc... You shouldn't need to use two maps to achieve what you want. EGO isn't the best way to get good economy (quite the opposite in fact) and below 1500 RPM it has a tendency to cause "surging", particularly noticeable in low box. I'd concentrate on getting a decent mix in all areas of the map between idle and 1500 rpm with the EGO switched off. use a slight increase in advance at the bottom end of the idle rpm (at around 600) to help avert stalling.

I use a cheap and cheerful Britpart steering damper on my challenge truck (35 inch Simex) and 90 (225 something or other). Been running the one on the 90 for 2 years, mostly road use but some green laning. The one on the challenge motor has been on for just over a year, some road use, challenge comps, club trials and green laning. It does the job and I won't begrudge replacing it if I bend it It has completely eradicated the "death wobble" from the Simex so does the job OK.

I use one of these... http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/Motorsport/Fuel_System/Fuel_Tank_Vent_Valves/Mocal_Fuel_Tank_Pressure_Relief_Valve/1546/0/23336 Probably cheapest if you go to Mocal direct (Think Automotive) - for some reason this particular valve isn't listed on their web site but if you phone them up they'll ship one to you. I think their (Mocal) part number is TPV8

It shouldn't have a strap on a 90 and doesn't need one. You'll find out just how little it needs a strap if you ever have to take the tank and cradle out again once the rear tub is on ! On the picture above A needs to be used for the filler and B for the breather - normally routed into the back of the inner rear wheel arch. B is a "roll over valve" which seals the vent off if the vehicle is inverted. For wading use I'd recommend fitting a pressure relief/vacuum relief valve into the pipe running from B as they are normally closed and only open to release pressure or let air in when required. Connecting B to A via a T piece is a really bad idea as it essentially leaves you without a vent at all when the fuel cap is in place. Stepping the filler vent down from 20mm to 10mm shouldn't be too difficult, there are plenty of places selling plastic step down adaptors that would do the job. Obviously a smaller vent may make it more temperamental to fill but shouldn't be too bad.