soutie

I have also got this system on mine. Got the part numbers off the old forum. I would say it has to be the best modifaction I have had done to her. Does make a big difference in driving in the rain when one can actually see ones mirrors. Peter

I have decarbon's all round. From what I understand the holes for the rear top mounts were already in the chassis. Crush tubes where fitted for the top mounts. (I did not fit them but Jim from Gigglepin (90SV) did, so might be worth asking him. Peter

I have rear shocks on the back of my 110. Twin shocks did make a huge difference when I traveled across Africa fully loaded. Most Safari companies in Kenya and Tanzania run them on their Safari Landrovers. You need to get a pair of brackets for the axle and two standard rear mounts. Photo's of the rear mounts after I replaced the back axle after getting back from Africa. Quite a few supplier do them. e.g. http://www.mailorder4x4.com/acatalog/BA_2162_LI.jpg

Spot on there. Her home was in Stampford Moor. We got a bit lost as the road was so snowed under it looked like a side road and we ended up at the top of the hill going towards Devon before following the sign posts to Stampford Moor down a very snow / icey road coming down the hill.

I had a similar problem last year with my 200tdi 110. I had replaced the radiator, water pump and thermostat and sender until Turbo charger leant me his heat sensor gun and we confirmed it was the gauge that had had it. I replaced it with a calibrated gauge and sensor and it now sits at 88 degrees what ever I do.

Matt Nothing as exciting as you. Had to take a carer around Wellington today on behalf of Wessex 4x4 response. The road to her house had not being snow ploughed as had most of the streets in the Wellington area. A sunny picture attached showing a street this afternoon while we waited for her to attend to one of her patients.

This morning in my normal car got as far as the Avonmouth Bridge before I received a phone call from my boss to tell me to go home. On the way back to BOS on the almost single lane M5 at the time heard a spokes person from Great Western Ambulance Service on BBC Bristol thank Wessex 4x4 Response for all the help they had being giving. Good publicity.

I have just replaced the front disk on my 1989 110 this weekend. For an accountant handling something mechanical I thought this was an achievement for myself. The topic on this forum about levering the pistons back in the caliper was useful as it helped give clues on how to do the job. I have for the sake of putting things back together wet and dry sanded the rust off the pistons and cleaned them up so I could get to move back to make space for the new pads. I have pressure bled the system and the brakes where hard after bleeding but after leaving for a couple of hours there is now a tiny bit of give before they go hard. I have checked and can't find any signs of a leak yet. 1. Does this mean I now have to replace the calipers with new ones as the rust marks on the pistons will mean that they will leak air into the system? 2. Due to my mechanical knowledge if I have to repair I would rather replace. Is this misguided? 3. I have braided steel brake pipes. If I do have to replace the calipers I can't clamp the pipe. What does one do? Apologies for so many questions Peter

When I had my 110 refurbed at gigglepin a few years ago they used series galvanised ones. They are not welded together as 110 ones are but I don't think most people notice.

I have the Lidl pump sprayer versions. One for EP 90 and one for ATF. I have found a use for the new type plastic corks. Have drilled a hole into two of them and use them to keep the end of the sprayers clean and free from dirt. Lidl has currently got the pumps at £8.99 each. Price has gone up from about the £5 mark as they now have a pressure gauge on them. The more common white household sprayer retails at about £20 at B&Q etc.

Before last MOT checked rear drum brake shoes and then went to adjust the pads up. The adjusters just turned and did not move the shoes, In the end I gave up and had my mechanic adjust them for the MOT. I then sent off for a new snail cam adjuster kit. Fitted it yesterday to the right hand side and guess what. It does not adjust the shoes at all. It appears that the snail cam is not touching the peg on the shoes. I took the left hand drum off to look at those snail adjusters to compare. Front one works a treat and one can see it move the shoe out when you adjust it. The rear hardly moves the shoe but you can feel the clicks. With drum back on one can adjust the shoes into contact so the drum does not turn and back off the cam two clicks. Problem is new adjuster kit has not solved the problem on the right hand side. 1. Looking at it, it could it be bolt holding the snail cam on in the kit keeps the shoes too off the peg. Can I grind down the bolt to bring the shoes and the snail adjuster closer or is this a bad idea? 2. Looking at the old adjusters they do not have have any wear marks on the contact facing side. Could it be that I have the incorrect brake shoes and the pegs are not long enough? The shoes where numbered from memory 3096B and 3096D. I know also have the problem that the drum back on the right hand side it is a bugger to move, can't adjust the shoes and my brake pedal is as a consequence spongy as hell. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks

I tip I learnt from a gun smith was to use a spot of heat to break the loctite hold. He used to use a small gas burner to heat the screws up before he would unscrew them. Saved having to replace many a managed screw head.

The course that I have booked for is: Fast Track Welding £569 (£0) I spoke to Dave Beaver on tel no. 01278-441290 This popular course is designed to provide your staff with 'fast track skilling' in the welding type or method of your choice. One-to-one tuition enables us to offer a very wide range of possibilities including MIG, TIG, Gas or Arc. This course also forms an ideal primer for NVQ qualifications. Entry Requirement: Basic engineering skills. Location: Bath Road Course Code: 28 hours x 1 weeks Time:09:00 AM - 05:00 PM Day(s): Mon - Thurs Start Date: 16/02/2009 RS006/081C Other course dates are as follows: 28 hours x 1 weeks Time:09:00 AM - 05:00 PM Day(s): Mon - Thurs Start Date: 18/08/2008 RS006/081A 28 hours x 1 weeks Time:09:00 AM - 05:00 PM Day(s): Mon - Thurs Start Date: 27/10/2008 RS006/081B 28 hours x 1 weeks Time:09:00 AM - 05:00 PM Day(s): Mon - Thurs Start Date: 06/07/2009 RS006/081E 28 hours x 1 weeks Time:09:00 AM - 05:00 PM Day(s): Mon - Thurs Start Date: 06/04/2009 RS Further information about the course. Who is the course for? Designed to meet the needs of local industry, this course provides companies and individuals, with fast track skilling in a range of welding types and methods. What will I study? One to one tuition allows us to offer a wide range of possibilities including MIG, TIG, GAS and ARC. What will I need for the course? Since the course is 85% practical you will need overalls and appropriate footwear. Safety equipment is provided. What makes this course special? Highly intensive four day experience with College Certificate. How will I be assessed? There is no direct assessment with this short course. However, delegates will be expected to complete a set of welding assignment. Will this course lead to a qualification? The course can be used as an NVQ primer – continuing an NVQ level II on return to the company. Delegates are provided with a College Certificate. How long is the course? 4 days x 1 week on demand. Please contact our Course Enquiries team for further details. How much will it cost? The course fee, which includes tuition and assessment fees is £569 on enrolment for all students. If you have to pay the College more than £150, you may be able to take advantage of our instalment payment or Direct Debit scheme. Students who are receiving income based benefits or who are on a low income may also be eligible to apply for our Learner Support Fund, which can help towards compulsory course costs and/or contribute to the daily cost of travel to and from College. We also have a fund for childcare, which you would again need to apply for via Student Support Team. These funds are limited so early application is advisable. Please contact Student Support Team on 01278 441233 or email studentsupport@bridgwater.ac.uk for details of possible sources of funding to help you study. Course fees may not apply to overseas students. How do I find out more? Contact Bridgwater College, Bath Road, Bridgwater, Somerset TA6 4PZ Tel: 01278 441234 Web: www.bridgwater.ac.uk email: enquiries@bridgwater.ac.uk

Orange, not a bad idea however I have booked for the 4 day course for the February half term before I saw all your replies. I have unfortunetly left the book at work so I will post the dates, cost and the contact person's name to whom I spoke to at Bridgwater College tomorrow. When I spoke to him he stated that they did the 4 day course over the half terms when the students were not at the College. Cheers Peter

Hattymender. The 34 week course is about £350. The four day intensive is about £550. The way my wife has put it I can have it as a group Birthday and Christmas present with me contributing a bit as well. I have already started saving. Cheers Peter

My local college run two different welding course. 1. 34 weeks @ 4 hours a time. Learn how to arc, mig, tig weld in a whole class room. Welding down and across, sideways and above. 2. 4 days @ 8 hours each with individual teaching. Can choose which sort of welding to learn. On phoning to enquire the chap stated that he has quite a few people at the end of the fourth day on course 2 take the coded welding certificate and pass. I only want to learn how to weld so I can choose which welder to buy to maintain my 110. Which one would everybody recommend to go on?

The snail cams on my 110 drum brakes have had their day. Basically I can't adjust up my rear brakes any more. Does anyone do a repair kit for these, or does one have to buy a whole new back plate? I don't really want to fork our £57 per side for back plates. Apparently britpart don't do the repair kit anymore. Can I use a series repair kit? Any suggestions appreciated.

I have had one engine and one gearbox mount fail at the same time. They were diagonally opposite each other. Oe could not see that they had failed on inspection with the engine off. However with a person gunning the engine one could see how the rubber lifted off cleanly from the centre metal section. With the two parts still attached to their respective mounting points but not connected togther. Not sure if this could be your cause.

Here is a link to a different forum with a bit more on it. http://forum.landrovernet.com/showthread.php?t=89931 Plus a link to a site that supplies it. http://www.durafix.co.uk/

Best story I have heard is when a bunch of them camped in a farmers field and where asked to move on stated no. The farmer sated that He did not think is was a good idea that they stayed in the field as he had work to do. They then told him to sod off. Once he started spreading his muck they soon changed their minds.

Watched the final results this morning. Three Bowlers in the top eight with the Gibon brothers in their Bowler in second place in the car category.

Watched on Sky channel 413 - Motor something - about a new rally raid called the transoriental. St Petersberg to Beijing. In the car section there were four Bowlers in the top eight. The highest being placed second, then fourth. It is good to see a half landy doing all right. Back on Tuesday when the next section is run.

We bought the Mapstudio road atlas Africa atlas in Tanzania at a Shop write checkers. It gives the whole of Africa - Historical sites, games reserves etc..

I had the same problem on mine a couple of months ago. In the end Turbocharger lent me a hand held point and tell thermometer. That showed all temperatures in the correct zone. I replaced my temp gauge with a graduated one and the problem was sorted. (Mine was a 200tdi 110)

On mine the gearbox leak got all over the connections on the solenoid and caused it to work every now and then. Cleaned up the contacts and it has worked fine ever since. The user manual states to drain the oil you have to drop the plate. I spoke to the person who was responsible for it at GKN and he stated that people often confuse the bolt at the bottom for the drain hole. He stated that it had something to do with the fitting of it to American Campervans.