FridgeFreezer

The sum total of my knowledge is that the manual for my freebie says you have to push the button 5 times near the car after changing the battery, wondering if that's true for yours? (Of course you've read the manual haven't you? )

Al - you have at least one running vehicle so that's no excuse but yes, you can turn up and cadge lifts all day, you never know you might get some inspiration for your build. Manic - I'll keep an eye out, I'll be in the very subtle red 109 CSW

I'm guessing this is a petrol? Injectors = EFi, so is it flapper or hotwire? I'm guessing hotwire if it's 96. First question is how do you know no fuel is getting to the injectors?

Nige - how long, what for, and what colour cable & headshells do you want, I'll do one and post it if it's urgent.

They come up on eBay quite often, I've just sold mine.

I think the 07 version has fixed a few things that previously put people off, look at all the jap crew-cabs and pickups kicking about I think people are coming back to LR to avoid looking like pikeys The RR seems to be top of it's tree too, and a bit classier than some of the other stuff.

Does your ECU have an input for O2 sensors, and if so how does it use them? If the input is disconnected and left floating that may be why it's chucking in so much fuel. It may equally be the case that the chipping ignores O2 sensors completely, it depends how it's set up - and you'd need Mr Adams to tell you that much.

Floor panels are about £12 from paddocks, no biggie there. Axle casings aren't hard to come by either - a complete pair of RR axles would likely cost £100-£150 depending on condition. I have a pair in my garden that are crusty but serviceable. Bulkhead could be patched, repaired or replaced depending on condition and how much effort you want to put in.

The mags won't do anything, kankku advertise with them and hence will be beyond reproach. I would talk this over with the council & relevant authorities and make it clear that you're as p*ssed off as they are, at least then they know it's not the whole 4x4 community but just a stupid minority. From there, I would see what the council says and if there are any options to work together with other bodies, perhaps name & shame in the local media (would not only shame them but also show the responsible face of 4x4's for taking action in the first place).

To put it another way, for the amount you'll spend doing it up you couldn't buy one in that good a condition - new galv chassis, galv bulkhead - they don't come from the factory that future-proof. Yes in resale value terms you won't make your money back, but in lifespan terms you will. In satisfaction, skills learned and pride in the vehicle it will pay off tenfold. And money spent on tools is never wasted. Miketomcat built his tomcat under a mate's carport, goes to show what's possible (although he's not really normal for a number of reasons )

It makes sense but the extra fuel is less likely to be an injector than just a variation in the engine itself, you have to ask yourself how bothered are you about hunting for a minute difference that car manufacturers and all but high-end race engines never bother with. If you stick three bungs in you'll only worry about trying to balance the banks and then you'll end up wanting a bung in each port of the manifold...

I second Shire LRC but then I'm also biased

Here's what I've got: The MS connector: The whole system: You'll need to click on the "see full size" bit to see the detail. Also, the MS1 can't run a stepper motor idle control valve but that's no great loss, most people run without an idle control valve and it seems to work OK unless your engine is really fussy or you absolutely must have perfect idle from stone cold.

Exmoor will be OE or better quality, Britpart, erm, tend not to be My seats are Exmoor refurbs which is another option, they stick new foam in and a new covering. I think you can even get kits from Exmoor to DIY it.

I'd stick a bung just after the Y. If you want to monitor each bank, stick a pair of bungs just before the Y. Mind you, if you can't tune each bank separately there's not a lot of point measuring them separately What's your ECU?

Sweeping generalisations are never correct I think this thread has wandered off and got lost - we're not going to find out any juicy gossip (if any exists) about why SR and the AWDC have gone solo so to speak. As for entering SR supported events, everyone seems to to be in agreement - those who don't like SR won't enter their events, sorted.

Sounds like a good excuse to buy some tools and learn the hard way not much point scrapping it and buying another as it'll only have the same problem. I thought there was a company that did a complete chassis swap service for around £2k?

It's a smart little thing but does make me wonder if it's really worth £220 when you can buy a used Toughbook with a bigger screen for less, or a brand new full size laptop for £330. Incidentally, all this talk of solid-state HDD's being more robust is fine but has anyone ever read the impact specs for a 2.5" hard drive? The manufacturers rate them for 250G shocks during operation, it would take a case-crushing impact to upset a HDD, let alone cause serious damage, at which point you've got bigger problems anyway.

I reckon Range rover diffs would be the best option if it's not used much off-road and you don't have too many steep hills. They will raise all the gearing, cost less than an OD and won't whine like an OD. Mind you, if it's a stock 88 then just fitting slightly larger tyres such as 7.50's would raise the gearing about 10-15%. Don't bother with hubs, they are rubbish (they leak, they are a weak point, they are inconvenient) and frankly I don't think they make any noticeable impact on fuel economy.

Sensors are in! Will test them tomorrow! Are you saying they weren't in before?

I'd consolidate the M5 engine & box into a 110 for maximum laugh

Pugwash - Big Agnes come very highly recommended from a mate of mine who went camping in Norway recently. His was a 3-season bag and he said it was toasty warm at -20C He also said he doesn't fit in normal sleeping bags but fits in their "normal" size with room to spare, you can tell they're for an American market

Any LT230 is doable, yes. How-to is here.

RR diffs would be weaker than salisbury, much of the rest is equal. I agree though, if you're breaking stock parts in one flavour LR axle you're likely to break them in another - have done and fit something stronger.

I can confirm it's entirely possible with a V8