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FridgeFreezer

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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Everything posted by FridgeFreezer

  1. If it's the black goo, then LR supply it, or your local motor factors should be able to sell you a mastic-gun style cartridge of black goo for a few quid. It's high-temp universal super-sticky sealant type thing, not regular instant gasket so don't let them sell you the wrong thing.
  2. Handy to know, thanks Lewis. Are there any issues I should be aware of? Silverline told me on the phone they would not recommend it, that the tyre could come off the bead (?) and that the world would explode and millions would be killed... OK, maybe the last bit's exaggeration but the gist was they weren't in favour of it. On double-checking, the only thing Maxxis do that's close is the 37x12.50R16 Creepy Crawler, everything else is too gay small or on 15" rims which wouldn't clear my brakes even if I could afford new rims to go with. Shame 'cos I think the mudzillas look cool.
  3. I wish someone would buy all my junk so I can afford some big tyres
  4. Well a couple of people have suggested to me that it's doable to run wide tyres on skinny rims, which opens up the market a bit - it seems a bit strange but would it work running (for example) 37x12.50's on a 7" wide rim?
  5. Surely buy a 12-seater and tax it as a bus? No congestion charge and your own lane through city centres
  6. The going rate for volvo portals is around £2250 per pair for the 5.99's, a bit less for the 7.56's. The disc brake kit is £1500, worth every penny though having experienced trying to set up the drum brakes reliably.
  7. As I said, you may be able to get away with the hotwire system (before people tell me I'm being picky) however I would recommend MegaSquirt so you can tune it properly and keep an eye on things - a popular theory for the 4.6 liner slip/porus block problem is the lean cruise fuel map Rover run on them, hence why I would be wary of using a less-than-ideal setup on a 4.6.
  8. That's different, handy for when you want to do a toasted baguette Tin hat and flak jacket on and heading for the door
  9. PAS box should bolt in place of your current non-PAS steering box.
  10. Not fuel pump, fuel injection. You might "get away" with it using the 3.9 hotwire system, but I wouldn't trust it on my engine. Then again, I don't trust anything with a Lucas sticker on it
  11. 20/50 is the safe bet, but if you read Ian's rather excellent engine build thread he did a lot of homework and concluded that 15W40 magnatec was perfectly OK, and a bit more advanced than the 20/50 available these days. 5W50 is thin for an "old" V8, the later ones with serpentine front ends had a different oil pump which may put up with those (IIRC the official LR oil specs are different), I know from experience that thin oil puts you on dodgy ground in an old V8 as it struggles to prime the pump when hot. Ask me how I know
  12. Screw it to the ceiling with everything else electrical. Why compromise wading capability? Agree with the MP3 comment too, an MP3 CD/DVD/memory stick car stereo will only set you back about £50 on eBay these days.
  13. There's one on the front of every air-con compressor, so not hard to come by and capable of transmitting a decent torque. You can buy industrial ones easily enough, not sure of prices. Next question is why do you want to operate an engine-driven winch without being in the vehicle?
  14. Yes they're 255/100's and they're actually pretty new.
  15. The 4.6 will have a longer crank nose, to bolt a non-serpentine front on you'll need a ~20mm spacer ring behind the crank pulley bolt to get it to tighten up. My 4.6 has a 3.5 V-belt front end and 3.9 inlet manifold and EFi. The block isn't exactly the same as a 3.9 - it's cross-bolted, so if you have a remote filter replacement oil pump cover it will foul the cross-bolt (ask me how I know) apart from that - drop it in. What are you doing for fuelling?
  16. I don't know if it's the same with diseasals but some of the plug-in boxes just put a resistor network in the signal from the coolant and/or air temperature sensor to make the ECU think it's a bit cooler than it really is = more fuel. Could be worth a pop for the 20p it will cost in components
  17. Let's face it, I'm a slightly less aggressive driver than you Jules but I was in 3rd high box by the end and it wasn't going any faster - that mud was sloppy stuff and the tyres just didn't have the grip.
  18. Do you mean Saturday 24th or Sunday 25th then Nige? If it's the 24th I may well wander up and have a look.
  19. Fedima look to be in the lead - I like the look of the trial ade but the trekkers are taller, will have to see how they compare on price and see how much blood my credit card is coughing up this month
  20. Which one do you mean - the one where I went in after you?
  21. Sounds like the ECU is just over-fuelling then, with no closed-loop operation it'll just be chucking in whatever fuel it thinks is right. This is why I don't like "chipped" ECU's, unless you tune it to your vehicle it'll never be right for your vehicle. At best it'll be a close match based on a very similar engine.
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