101sean

No problem, I'll chuck it in the car and pm you once I'm back in the UK.

I'm just about throw one in the scrap bin if you want it, it was on the D2 Tbox I got for my 110. It's in Ireland at the moment but I'll be coming past Bristol on the 23rd.

Yes it was lhd 131x box. Hopefully you'll find an alternative but the Jeep and RB44 (Dodge/Renault based) are the only ones I've heard of that don't need major chassis mods.

You can't without Nanocom or taking them to a specialist

Discussion on the 101 forum on this at the moment. Apparently a LHD Cherokee box goes in without cutting the chassis but the drop arm needs cutting and welding which most aren't happy with. This is on a RHD vehicle. An RB44 steering box has also been tried.

Engine is the same so will fit, you'll have to swap the looms though. Block wise it's probably fine as is, they don't wear at all. Same top end, if it's running fine, leave alone other than maybe injector seals and the FPR.

The orange bearing isn't a standard one unfortunately. Devon 4x4 were doing overdrive spares but TBH, the GKN OD isn't up to the job on a Defender. Gave up on mine and now have a Disco Tbox, the OD is gathering dust in the shed alongside a wrecked LT95 Fairey OD (but that's another story!)

Clutches can be a bugger to bleed, I usually get them bled enough to just about work and rest of the air works it's way out. Just done the clutch in my Lightweight, there were no markings for flywheel side on the OEM replacement, there was on the old. Got caught out once on a 98 Renault Trafic clutch I was changing with my bro in law. We took the old off and laid it down as is because there were no markings on the genuine new one. I picked the new plate up the right way round, swung round to the lift, offered it up and fitted it. It wasn't until we dropped the vehicle off the lift and it wouldn't go in to gear we realised that I'd inadvertently turned it round! At that point we locked the shed door and walked away, book time on a Trafic clutch was 9 hours......... Ripped it out following day, done job so often now we can do it 3 hours but I'm now allergic to Renaults!

Shuttle switch failure usually shows up as such on a code reader. Land Rover will tell you that you need a replacement abs modulator but the fix is the same as Disco 2 three amigos and costs around £40. You can get to it through the air intake without disturbing the brake lines, had to do it on my Defender recently. http://www.landroverclubvi.com/abs-mod.html I was also getting a rear sensor fault even with a new sensors, hasn't come back since I did the shuttle switch mod. Some time before that I kept knocking out rear bearings that would affect the sensors, took ages to find it was a worn stub axle. Finding the right stub axle was fun as it's not standard 110 and it's wrongly listed in some places. Yours is front, so that's not the problem. I did have a front problem when the top king pin bearing failed though!

When I rebuilt my 101's engine I went for a standard 3.9 cam following advice on the V8 Forum. Got all my bits from http://www.v8tuner.co.uk/

Get an LED one rather than the Lucas patented short circuit device that masquerades as a number plate light.

The crank position sensor is the only one that will stop a TD5.but a failing starter will also upset the signal from the sensor. As others have said, battery needs to be good or it won't fire. Have you tried tow starting it, if it fires instantly then the CPS is OK and the starter or your battery are the problem. Try removing the CPS and cleaning it, if it's got a bit of swarf on it that will upset the signal.

Is he sure it's leaking from the head gasket? I'd be surprised it it was. They mostly leak from the rocker box gasket at the semicircular cut out at the rear making a mess of the back of the engine. There's two types of gasket depending on age of the engine,.

You're going to need the screen rail, screen rail clamp, roll bar and door frame set which will set you back nearly as much a new canvas. Check out ebay is your best bet for S/H. Look at Exmoor Trim's site for the an illustration of the bits you need or someone may post a the page from the parts catalogue

Doubt if it's anything to do with the EGR (get a removal kit and throw it in the bin anyway). As well as looking at the wastegate, unplug the MAF sensor and see if it goes any better, although a failed MAF usually means it wont rev over 2500rpm cleanly. If it's neither of those, get it plugged in by someone who knows what they are doing or you could be chasing around swapping bits needlessly.

The lever is free in the shift housing, think you may have popped a circlip or nut trying to work it loose. Your problem is the cross-shaft seized through lack of use. You can get to it through the hole in the tunnel but take the tunnel off for easier access. You'll see the housing on top of the gearbox with a collection of wobbly bits of bent metal and rods on the end of it that is the linkage. On mine I had to unbolt the housing and take a No3 BFH and a load of penetrating oil to it to free the shaft off by hitting it back and forth. You'll probably need a new set of nylon top hat washers for the linkage as if they are broken or lost it will be too wobbly to work. It's fairly obvious how it's set up and adjusted when you look at it, you won't need a new Tbox.

Fit a 35DLM8 from simonbbc with matching DLB198 coil. It will come with a 3 pin terminal on it but you only need 2 (I can find which 2 if I look at my 101!) and you don't need the converter lead they sell. It's not worth putting the original dizzy back to points at will probably be badly worn anyway, you could have used the drive gear off mine as a router bit as the teeth were worn so sharp!

Agreed, go for the fuel first including a new filter if you haven't already. My ECU had oil in it when I bought my 110, it was 5 years old and I got it cheap as the PO hadn't had it serviced it properly or got warranty issues dealt with. I had to take the top off the ECU to tip the oil out, it hadn't done any damage thankfully and is still going 8 years later. The engine loom was so badly oiled i had to change it which is a real PITA to do.

If it's not that and you're going to pull the tunnel, order some of the nylon top hat bushes that go in the linkage, can't remember how many, 4 or 6 I think. Gets very wobbly without them and they are easily lost.

I've had no problems with the the caps etc that Simonbbc sells. I've also had one of the replacement dizzy's he does. Google or ebay him.

Hi Heater shouldn't be that lacklustre, is the engine warming up fairly slowy (is thermostat stuck open)? It could be the heater matrix is clogged or scaled up. I think there are better replacements around. No need to disconnect the battery but if you feel the need, turn the ignition on and off and disconnect within 20 seconds. Relays shouldn't fail frequently, I assume it's the ones under the drivers seat? check the terminals for corrosion and that the relays are seating properly. Diagnostic tools, there are several depending on how spendy you want to be. Check out Lynx and Hawkeye on any of the various suppliers websites. Even the most basic tool will tell you pretty much all you need to know, there's more to it than just fault reading. If it handles better in difflock it probably needs it. Not driven much on sand myself. Fuel pumps get noisy before they fail, it's a loud whine. Usually happens around 80 -100k miles although mines still fine at 160k. Constantly running the tank low doesn't do them any favours. You are supposed to drop the tank to change it but most of us cut a hole in the floor (although there a cross strut in the way on SW and DCPUs) If you look in the tech archive index you find many posts that cover heating, fuel pumps (inc where to cut the hole!) and most problems

If you look back up this thread there's pics of the mount I made clip the mirror/monitor to.

Agreed, probably the drive belt squealing, may just need changing, on the other hand it could be a bearing on one of the ancillaries or pulleys.

Sometimes the end just blows off and you have to fit a new unit. You can just about do it through the ashtray hole in the dash otherwise you need to strip the dash top off.

Get it plugged in otherwise you are just replacing bits for nothing. Not just for faults, you need to look at pedal track readings. I doubt if the clutch switch had anything to do with it.