nickwilliams

235/85/16 Khumo KL71 on Wolf rims

It's item code RSI on this page but you need to buy the 4.8mm terminal which is code FBL4 on this page. I think I've got all the bits in stock to make one up with some flying leads. How long do the wires need to be? Let me know and I'll have a look over the weekend. Nick.

Bonjour Antoine. Vous devriez commencer par lire l'article dans les archives techinal. Puissiez-vous trouver google translate va vous aider avec les Inglés difficile!. Cordialement Nick.

On a Defender the front inner wings have no structural function at all, and on post 2009 vehicles are moulded plastic anyway. There's no reason not to make them completely from GRP (forget the steel frame) except that if you can buy a pair of plastic ones it will save you all the hassle.

You are going to have to get a commercial premises insurance for this, I think, but these are rarely sold direct IME. You need to speak to a broker: these guys are good in my experience, but £2500 is small change in commercial terms and you may struggle to get a premium cost you think is affordable. I've just insured about £15k's worth of tools plus a box trailer and a lump of specialist equipment worth a total of about £30k for about £450 per annum.

The socket for mine is mounted on the inside cover for the rear lights (on top of the wheel arch, at the back). I then run a coiled extension cable to the trailer when I am towing. The cable can go through the door seal without damage. Since the connection points for the trailer electrics are all in that back corner, it keeps all of the trailer wiring out of the wet. I have a 90 rather than a Disco, but I used this solution on my Escort van to good effect as well and I'd be surprised if it can't also be done on a Disco. Nick.

What you are looking for is a black cylinder about 2 in long and 1/2 in diameter, with a Lucar connector at each end. New ones look like this. The original LR ones are just a single cylinder (no flat part) though. It's hidden in the wiring loom behind and below the instrument binnacle.

I would be very interested if you can quote the precise piece of legislation which says this. Nick.

I suspect the o-ring is the reason the sprocket is out of alignment. You need to apply a firm, steady force to get the ring to seat inside the sprocket, hitting it with a hammer gently won't do it, and if you hit it hard enough to seat properly then you'll almost certainly damage the O-ring. If you slide the O-ring on to the end of the shaft first, and then slide the sprocket over the top and push, you'll feel the sprocket move as the o-ring seats in the sprocket. If you don't feel it, it's probably not seated properly.

As a rule of thumb, I'd recommend putting a relay in for any circuit which takes more than about 5A if you use it regularly (weekly or more) or 10A if it's only for occasional use. Relays tend to have a lower contact resistance than manual switches, and are usually easier and cheaper to replace when they go wrong. Neatness is a good thing when wiring! Other recommendations include: - Never use Scotchloks - Use good quality crimp terminals, and get the right crimping tool for them - Route wires where they won't rub on sharp edges and get damaged, and away from hot parts such as the exhaust - Label everything, or use a wide range of different wire colours, and keep a note of what is what - Never use Scotchloks

Properly set up, plasma used with a circle jig will give you a cut which is at least as good as a hole saw. If you are paying someone to do it, laser cut is probably going to give you the best cost/finish ratio, although CNC plasma will be cheaper and probably adequately tidy for your purposes.

I have this setup (ARB rear, Truetrac front) in my 90. It would be impossible to tell it's there under normal circumstances. Nick.

I think you're trying to mate two different types of connector which are not compatible. The male half looks to me as if it has a flat face and will need an 'O' ring to seal. The female half has a formed flare (a bit like a ball) on the end of the pipe (inside the nut) and is intended to mate with a conical fitting. If I'm right, you wont get these two to seal no matter how hard you try. You need to replace the flat face fitting with a conical one like this. Nick.

This is a re-surfacing of the roadworthiness directive which caused a lot of angst on this forum 12 months or so ago. I find it slightly ironic that a measure which caused so much antipathy 12 months ago when it appeared that it might affect modified 4x4 vehicles now seems thoroughly acceptable since the media are focussing on the effect on caravans. We need to remain vigilant that this will not creep back to become a set of proposals which could affect modified vehicles. I do not have time to investigate this further today, but if anyone else comes across any indications that the proposals will affect modified or historic vehicles, please can they post here so that we can keep an eye on them. Nick.

There are certainly some 1990 2.5TD's about - I had one until I rebuilt it with a 300TDi.

That looks useful. It will be interesting to see how well those dimensions match my vehicle!

Good, yes, but a bit spendy: although the one drawing is only about £3.50, you have to buy a batch of 'credits' to get started, and the minimum price for these is €20, so for a single drawing the cost is about £17, which is a bit steep for what I want.

I was hoping to find something which was more of a line drawing if possible.

SWMBO has asked me to put a label in the 90 which shows the height of the lowest arch the vehicle can be driven under. For various reasons, I'd like to do this as a graphic. Has anyone got a side view drawing of a hard top 90 which they can let me have, either as a reasonable resolution bitmap or in a common vector format such as .ai or DWG? Thanks Nick.

Hmm, I thought I'd linked to the full size ones, not the mini ones, obviously not. The Mini-Buccaneer use pins which have to be inserted after the wire is soldered or crimped to them, and IME are a bit of a PITA. I'd certainly echo Simon's recommendation to use the full sized ones. Nick.

The brown and the white feeds are unfused so you would be wise to ensure there is a fuse in the line if you are using them to feed low current equipment such as gauges. Nick.

The Bulgin Buccaneer connectors are about the best value for money for this sort of thing.

+1 for master cylinder failure. I did the seals in mine a few months ago but managed to put it back together slightly wrong so it worked when first fitted but ended up with very similar symptoms to yours. Replacement is a fairly easy job even if you are not an experienced spanner wrangler and an OEM replacement master cylinder is not expensive.

+1 for Team Idris's comment. Passing current through bearings is particularly bad for them.

It can be fed from a switch on the panel to the right of the driver's knee, on mine it's a three way switch with a centre off position, one way switches on the interior lights, the other switches on the instrument panel illumination. Not all vehicles have automatic interior lights (i.e. with door pillar switches). Mine doesn't, and I have the switch. It may be that it is not fitted to vehicles with door pillar switches. Nick.