nickwilliams

Several things here which might be of use: https://www.machine-dro.co.uk/angle-measurement-digital-gauge-protractor.html

Typical max. engine oil pressure - 10 bar Typical max. hydraulic pressure for hydraulic winch - 150 bar.

Err, no. For lots of reasons, no. Firstly CE marking does not apply to automotive components, they are e-marked instead. Secondly, CE marking isn't going to go away with Brexit, no matter how much some may wish it, and thirdly, the Kitemark is not and never has been a national safety mark for the UK, it's a registered trade mark owned by the British Standards Institution who are only one of a number of bodies who can approve products of all kinds.

35mm sq.

They look a lot like the ones discussed in this thread about indicator side repeaters.

I'd focus on this aspect if I were you, and leave worrying about the vaccum pump for the moment. Unless the pistons are rediculously rusty, this can only be the result of some sort of blockage in the system.

Hi Keith, welcome to the forum. It's difficult to give you reliable guidance without more specific information on where the rust is and how bad it is. Can you post some pictures?

It's M6 not M8.

Just to finish this off for the record, thanks to PaulMc for supplying me with the right parts very efficiently and at a fair price. For the record, the TE Connectivity part numbers for the connectors are 1-967644-1 for the connector body, 965906-1 for the socket contact, and 967067-1 for the wire seal. It's also worth noting that even though they are LEDs, the indicator repeaters are not polarity sensitive - they obviously contain a rectifier bridge so they can be connected either way around.

Does anyone know what the correct connectors which mate with the TD5 style indicator repeaters are? I bought a set of these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PAIR-Land-Rover-Defender-90-110-LED-Amber-Indicator-Side-Repeater-Lamp-Light/142406594781. I thought the connectors would be 2 pin Econoseal but they are something of a similar size but with rounder corners. Can anyone point me at the right thing and where I can get it? Thanks Nick.

You are wasting time and money using zinc rich paints such as Galvafroid on top of existing paint. Proper cold galvanising paints form a chemical bond with the metal, which they cannot do if there is a layer of paint between them and it. The black paint used by parts manufacturers is generally a crappy spray finish. You'd be best off stripping it and starting again but if that's too much work then remving it wherever it is loose or likely to get damaged easily and the painting over the whole lot with a two part epoxy top coat will be the best solution.

The Lincoln Viking 3350 can be switched between two different shade ranges which together cover shades 5 - 13. The newer ones have what Lincoln refer to as a 'C4' filter which is very nearly colour neutral. You can also get a range of magnifying lenses to go in them. There's really nothing else on the market which is as good. The other factor which makes a massive difference is to ensure you regularly replace the lens covers (inside and out) - the scatter from dust/residue on the lens makes a huge diference to what you can see when the filter is in dark mode.

On older vehicles with bullet connectors then it's fairly easy to double up on connections. On later vehicles with more sophisticated connectors it's not so easy. Scotchloks are generally seen as a bodge by people in the know, and I have none of them in any of my vehicles. However, they are widely used in the trade and are probably better than poorly done soldering. In truth, if properly fitted they will be fine so long as they are inside the car where they won't get wet. Smothering the metal part with silicone grease before assembly will help. They have the advantage that they can be removed, which is more difficult with a solder joint. I would advise you to use 1.0mm wire, especially if you are using Scotchloks - it's not a good idea to mix the wire sizes in them. Wiring diagrams for all but the most recent Defenders are widely available on the Web.

I have done exactly this myself. Yes, you can wire the USB adapter in parallel with the lighter socke and yes, you would be wise to put a lower rated local fuse in series with the USB adapter. A 5A fuse connected via 1mm sq wires will be fine. Bear in mind that on early vehicles I think the cigar lighter is always powered, on later (300TDI or later, so far as I can tell from a quick look at the diagrams) the lighter socket is switched off with the ignition.

Whether shortening the shafts is the right solution or not, I'll leave to others, but I'd not be too worried about cutting them down if you decide it's the right way to go. If you've got access to a TCT cut off saw or a band saw then I'd use that - the heating will be minimal. Otherwise a thin cutting disc on an angle grinder, take it steady, do it one bit at a time around the circumference and cool it with water between runs. The HAZ will only be a few mm from the cut, if at all.

Lincoln Electric will be very upset if they notice you have attributed their helmet to their arch-rivals, Miller! :-) I have a Lincoln Viking 3350 as well - it's the dog's danglies.

I've fitted one of these http://www.dabonwheels.co.uk/Kinetic_DRA-6001_FM-AM_DAB_car_aerial.html which seems to work very well. it's mounted towards the rear of the roof. It's feeding a Blaupunkt radio/amplifier (http://www.blaupunkt.com/en/nc/products/car-multimedia/car-radio/products/single/7589/). The installation works at least as well as the factory fit system in my Peugeot estate.

Don't know if anyone's interested but Whitham's have an auction ending next week in which there are eight WMIK ZF 4HP 220S automatic gearboxes. Currently starting at £100 each with no bids. https://www.bidspotter.co.uk/en-gb/auction-catalogues/witham/catalogue-id-witham10034/lot-acc1b0f9-c455-4011-9ecf-a74e00e9c51e

The voltage drop you are seeing is the consequence of the high current being taken by the glow plugs (around 70A if they are working properly) and the contact resistance in the glow plug relay. The resistance of the wiring and the connectors on the relay won't help either. As the plugs get hot, the current reduces (down to less than 40A after around 10 seconds) which is why the voltage goes up. Sounds like your relay is working fine, although it's to be expected that a used relay will have higher contact resistance than a new one. You really need to measure the current, not the voltage, to determine if the plugs are working OK. They fail by going high resistance.

Mechanical starters can be used where batteries cannot - for example very cold locations. I have an ex-military 30kVA generator which has a 6.3 litre straight six Ford engine and two massive (120Ah) batteries. It also has a hydraulic accumulator which is pumped up with about 10 minutes cranking on a handle. Once it's charged the hydraulic pressure is used to drive a very clever reciprocating rack arrangement on the end of the crankshaft which can drive the engine for several revolutions. The generator is rated to start down to -10 deg. C on the electric starter and (with the aid of what is effectively a capsule full of Easy Start squirted into the air intake manifold) -40 deg. C on the hydraulic starter.

Yes please.

I'm local to you, Peaklander. I have more taps than you are ever likely to need. PM me if you want to borrow a few.

The speedo and the three 52mm gauges are interchangeable between the two types of binnacle but the warning light pack from the pre-TD5 binnacle is a different shape to the TD5 pack so if you want to have the illuminated heater controls which come with the TD5 upgrade, you'll also have to fit the TD5 warning lights. EDIT - have just noticed that the Raptor binnacle does not have illumination even for the TD5 version. Consider my comment as applying only to the original plastic items.

I just pulled them in with a nut and an impact wrench. I used a few washers as a spacer for the wheel thickness.

I had no problem fitting the plastic innner wings to my 1990 90 when I rebuilt it on a 300 tdi galv. chassis (it was originally a 2.5TD). I didnt make any modifications to the wings but the refit did involve putting a 300 TDI fuel filter and coolant header tank in place of the originals.