monkie

It could be the solenoid with a dodgy connection as you suggest or air being drawn into the fuel system. All the cranking you did afterwards could have purged the air out. Check out the wiring as you suggest but also check the fuel lines and operation of the lift pump. A corroded pick up line from the tank is often a cause of air being drawn into the system when under load. It would only take a pin prick size hole to do it.

Job all done, this time no explosion of brake fluid everywhere. I had forgotten what a sod the bleed nipple on the nearside front caliper is to get at.

I had my 19J crank ground down 10 thou and it cost me about £160 from an engineerng shop in Somerset.

That's interesting. Once you had replaced the reservoir did the eezibleed go to plan?

The post arrived today with the new reservoir from LRseries. The shipping note said that part number AEU1044, (roll pins) to secure the reservoir to the master cylinder are no longer available. Fortunately they are included with the new reservoir which I didn't realise at the time of ordering. So if anyone is renewing their reservoir part number AEU1045 by Britpart comes as in the picture below with the seals and pins. All I need now is a dry couple of hours to fit it.

I disconnect the battery negative terminal out of habbit on my 110 when I weld even though the most complex electronic item is the alternator. When I used to work at an accident repair centre they used to clip a surge protector across the battery terminals.

Where do you buy these from? Looks like a sensible investment.

I used to have one of those years ago and broke/lost it. Having never used one before, I thought the pressurised one would be much better. Oh well, you live and learn.

Very true, I was thinking at one point the oil change on my rear diff was going to result in a new rear axel!

Good news to heari t's fixed👍

I really was quite annoyed and my language went a bit industrial! You might be right about an impact, although it held the mighty force of 15 psi for a good 10 minutes while I faffed about. I've never really looked that close at the reservoir before. The really annoying thing is by the time I've paid for the parts, shipping and VAT it cost nearly 50 quid on top of all the oils and filters I got for the service! There won't be much of the original vehicle left at this rate!

I'm under the impression that you can not downgrade an engine from an emissions point of view. Would it be worth considering an engine swap to a later Td5 unit?

Well go easy with the pressure if you have an old reservoir. Here's a picture of my massive crack

I thought 15 psi seemed low - I suppose its all relative. That's exactly what I thought in terms of not having a brake problem whilst on the road. I think the blue box part is my only choice, you never know who has supplied the reservoir on the branded master cylinder kit - it may well be the same part. I'm thankfull that my wife wasn't in otherwise it would have sprayed brake fluid all over her car😬

I spent the day yesterday changing all the fluids and filters on my 110. After the initial shock of finding metal flecks in the rear diff oil all went smoothly until I decided to change the brake fluid to finnish the 2 year service. I have always previously done it the old fashioned way using a helper to press the brake pedal while I open/close the bleed nipples on the brakes. I had no helper yesterday so I had got myself one of those one-man kits from Gunson which use the pressure from a spare tyre to pressurise the system with fresh fluid. The instructions said use between 20 and 10 psi. I used my electronic pressure guage to confirm I had let enough air out to get down to 15 psi. I thought half way was a good place to start with.... what could possibly go wrong? I filled the bottle in the kit with fresh brake fluid, hooked it up to the reservoir and the spare tyre then off I went to the rear brakes spanner in hand - all started well with the old fluid coming out. I then looked towards the front to see a mist of brake fluid spraying everywhere. When I got to the front I saw a huge crack had appeared in the plastic brake fluid reservoir with brake fluid being forced out of it. Any way the mess it made to one side, I've made more work for myself and the only reservoir I can find for a 110 of my vintage comes in a blue box (LR part number AEU1045). I have 3 questions: Was 15 psi in the spare tyre a silly place to start which was only going to end in failure? Is this just 30 year old plastic giving up the ghost and was going to fail any way at some point soon? The braking system is otherwise fine so I am only going to replace the reservoir - do the pins holding the reservoir to the master cylinder just push out?

Thank you. I last replaced the rear diff oil 2 years ago. I don't recall seeing the metal flecks in it. I think I will drop the oil again in 6 months time and get one of those magnetic plugs. The front diff was fine.

Yes it is bits of steel sticking to a magnet. It was only present in the rear diff. The oil was otherwise quite clean with no water contamination. Is this just normal wear and tear or is my diff wearing out?

Thanks chaps, that's interesting. They sure looked like brass to me but it might just be the morning sunlight playing tricks with me. I'll sweep a magnet through.

I'm celebrating Easter by changing all the oils on my 110. Dropped the oil from the rear diff and noticed a number of brass flecks in the oil. Is this serious?

Air in fuel. Check the condition of the fuel lines starting with the spill rail and security of the unions.

I've gone the other way, a 300tdi bulkhead fitted to my 1988 110. I had to swap the gearbox tunnel and add some rivnuts to secure the fuel filter. Other than that it was a straight swap.

Glad it's sorted. It's not an easy job to get at with the engine in situ, I've struggled for ages trying to get that M10 nut off and on the starter motor terminal.

I particularly like the small touches such as the can of what I assume to be Ezi-start under the bonnet and the rope on the chairs that are used to tie the hostages down.

Can that be done without taking the gearbox apart?

When you turn the key, what does happen (nothing or clicking noise)? I think you have now confirmed other sources of trouble: loose connections at terminals of earths, battery and starter motor Poor state of charge in battery Poor earth point by connecting the negative battery terminal to engine block with jump lead ignition switch and starter relay working by confirming 12v at white/red tracer wire I think now the blame can rest at the starter motor. Yes, that starter motor in the link you provide should fit your 200 Tdi as far as I am aware.