monkie

It certainly looks a bit second hand to me. What's going on with the inside of the intake case just before the blades? I can't decide whether it looks like corrosion or someone's had a go with some abbrasive material? Also, is that a moth at 10 o'clock nibbling away at the housing?😀 If there is any doubt, I would be fitting a new CHRA and cleaning up the housing atleast. CHRA units are widely available online for a fraction of the cost of a new complete turbo. I fitted a new CHRA to a 300Tdi engine a number of years ago for less than £200 and a morning's work.

It's a land rover. When it comes to leaks, just because they aren't there doesn't mean they cant leak😃

Or even just replicate them the best you can using MS word or power point and print them off on a sticky label.

Stating the obvious here but it's important..... Always have a suitable fire extinguisher to hand when welding. I may have, ahem, caused a slight waxoyl fire in my chassis once when welding. Nothing a bit of CO2 didn't fix!

Take the belt off and run the engine briefly to see if the noise goes to rule out the belt, PAS pump, water pump and alternator.

Can you wiggle the fip pulley a little by hand to loosen the pin?

Wow, I didn't realise Land Rover made chainsaws 🤣

Thanks chaps. I had the whole dash apart about 6 years ago when I replaced the bulkhead, I can't remember what was involved with the top.

I'm not sure how effective white spirit is but you can buy carb cleaner in an aerosol can which is good at dissolving the varnish and old petrol gum. I'm sure Halfords sell it, toolstation used to but had no stock in my local branch. I have to admit that I had the same bother and I got so fed up at having to investigate the carb on my old 2-stroke strimmer I went and got a battery strimmer.

That looks a very neat job Mudmonkey. I think you have all given me some ideas on what to look into.

Very interesting. Thank you. The end result looks great. I think some links would be helpful if you can find them.

Yes, this in an option I am looking at, but basically I'm being lazy and looking for some sort of acceptable fix to save me taking the dash apart.

I had wondered about this, but my worry is that I would make a crinkled mess of it! I found this on youtube, but I googled the products to do the repair and I think is an expensive way to do it. I think I will try the repair kit from Frost and see how that goes. If it looks a mess I will go hunting in the scrap yards for a new dash that is in better condition.

It somehow doesn't look real to me. It looks more like a badly edited picture.

Sorry if this is a bit of a silly question Richard, but how and with what are you planning to cover it with? I think that would be neater than a patch repair of some sort.

I think you might be right but here is a picture of the damage. I would like to do better than just stick some black tape over it.

You don't have to be that destructive. When I did mine the grub screws got chewed up so I drilled them out. Next problem was that the spindle adapters were stuck on the spindle. I made some very careful cuts with an angle grinder in the adapters to allow me to take them off without damaging the spindle. It took some care and patience but managed to get it sorted without much expense.

I've got a tear in the top of the dashboard material near the ash tray that is irritating me as it looks awful. I've done a bit of a Google search and came up with this stuff in the link here. Any tips or advice for how to sort this damage out? I'll post a photo up of the damage when I get to it.

Maybe it has become rounded off? I had to cut mine off a few years ago to fit new ones.

Can you or somebody you know weld? You can either cut away the rusted area and weld in a piece of steel or buy whole new foot well sections to be welded in. Google "Defender Footwell Repair and the sections will come up from numerous suppliers. Given the state of the footwell, have you given the rest of the bulkhead (top corners for example) a good poke around for more corrosion? Same advice for the chassis.

It may well be a gateway to harder stuff, I'll see how I get on. I did get a spare pack of blades as well😅

Darn it, I got swizzled out of £40!🙄

That's a real shame, not really my thing but it's an otherwise great Defender. It almost looks like they ran out of money right at the end and thought "what have got in the loft that we can use - oh look Dad's old leather jacket from the 1980s"!

When it happens again, leave the key in position 2 then disconnect and reconnect the fuel shut off solenoid. If you can't hear it click then try the above to see if you can hear the solenoid click open. If that doesn't resolve the none starting issue then before you crank the engine over see if the fuel filter contains air by opening the vent screw on the fuel filter head. If it is filled with air, pump fuel into the filter using the lift pump lever. I don't think there is a vent on the injection pump on a tdi if memory serves me right. Then try and start it. I imagine it will be one or the other that will get you running again.

Look at this for observational bias. I was in toolstation and stumbled across one. I now have one in my toolbox for such gasket related occasions. https://www.toolstation.com/unger-ergotec-safety-scraper/p69741#full-desc