monkie

My local hydraulic specialist gave me a price to politely ask me to leave and never darken their office again

I like this installation, very neat. I would use this one as a guide. Electric fan, extended pipes and using the defender air filter cannister

I never tire of seeing that golden block on your rebuilt 200 tdi Ralph👍

Provided that the cooling system is in good shape I am not aware of any tendancies for the 19J to run hot under normal use. As Western points out in the post above, the 19J is not known to be the most reliable engine land rover built, the 200 tdi incorporated a number of design modifications such as intercooler, ladder frame and different breather system to name just a few. In many ways it does makes sense to either stick with a good old 12J as a plodder or go for a tdi. The reason I rebuilt a 19J is because I wanted my late 1980s 110 to have the engine it was made with. To give my 19J the best chance, I give it regular oil and filter changes (at least twice a year) and I also advise replacing the injectors if the age of yours are unknown. Hot spots in the combustion can occur from a poor spray irregular pattern from worn injectors which can lead to serious engine damage. I'm a little confused about your catch tank as the breather system I set up from the military engines returns to oil to the sump. Maybe I've not understood you correctly? Keep us all updated with your progress. There is a great bunch of folks on this forum with knowledge and experience second to none.

I think that is why the timing and valve clearances have been questioned. You confirmed the valve clearances are okay, have you checked the timing?

Fuel line from the temporary tank to the lift pump to supply fuel to the injection pump, the return line should also be put in the tank as it returns a surprising amount of excess fuel back. The oil cooler pipes can be connected together so the oil flows in a loop or just refit the radiator temporarily so oil isn't pumped all over the floor wheb it fires up.

Have you checked the fuel injection pump solenoid is clicking open and that the timing is correct?

Here is a link my 19J rebuild, one of the pistons in particular was in a right mess.

Leave as is, is what I did. The older 19j engines (up to about 1987 I think, probably not many left now) had a very poor breather set up which was slightly modified to what I guess is what you are describing (pipe from the rear of the block to the rocker cover). This I think was to allow better breathing from the crankcase to the top where the gasses are pulled into the induction system; instead of having to go via the pushrod galleries and carrying more oil through. Check the condition of this pipe, clean it then put it back securly, don't blank it off or the gasses have no choice but to go via the pushrod galleries which land rover found out in the 1980s isn't ideal.

Hi, welcome to the forum. If you do a search on the land rover 19J you'll be familiar with the reputation they have for cracking pistons and many people don't like them and fit a tdi instead. My 19J was rebuilt by myself a couple of years ago so I know it has no cracked pistons or anything else wrong, I didn't want to fit an engine that old without giving it a rebuild. Some people just vent the engine to the atmosphere but that will lead to oil leaks and oil vapour under the bonnet. My set up works well and I have no liquid oil getting into the air filter. So yes, in my view I would swap the system from your 2.5 NA to your 19J. I would also seriously consider pulling the head off to inspect the pistons and decide if you want to spend the money on that engine before you go any further.

Don't know if it's too far down the A37 for you, but I know a good tyre fitter in Yeovil if that would be helpful?

Have you had a wiff of it when reversing? The difference in smell between burning oil or unburnt diesel is a tell tale. Have you had a look inside the turbo hoses to see if there is any oil? I think it is worth taking the hose off the inlet manifold and going for a little drive and see if the smoke goes away or stays to rule out oil getting in from a worn turbo seal or the breather.

Ive done a little more reading and I am leaning more towards the welding/brazing in a panel option. I've heard of durafix welding rods, which apparently you can use a map gas torch to melt the rods. Anyone had any experience of this method? How difficult is it to get good results (ie a water tight seal)?

That's some interesting suggestions. I didn't know of any fixed window options. Do you have any links?

The roof on my 110 hard top is in bad shape (dents, kinks, holes...) I do have a roof sitting in my garden that is in great shape but it is for a 110 CSW. Trouble is that it has a hole in the roof for a sun roof which I don't have and nor do I want one. I'm thinking of two options to fill the hole with a section of aluminium sheet. 1- Weld it in place (I have no experience of welding aluminium with a MIG, but happy to have a go with practice first). 2- Drill and rivet it inplace using Sikaflex to seal it. The latter being the easiest but not the most neat option, the former being unknown to me (can I weld aluminium sheet to Birmabright?) - What's the general opinion here?

I'm 100% with Snagger on this one. Oil getting in to the cylinders by what ever route would be causing blue/grey smoke not black. If it were my engine, I'd be going straight to the injection pump and checking the security of the mounting of it followed by its timing. Small differences to the timing of the injection pump can have profound effects on general running and performance of the engine, not to mention smoke either clouds of white smoke that sting your eyes (unburnt diesel) or thick black smoke from incomplete combustion (particles of carbon).

I agree with your suggestion of air in the fuel lines. Has any work been done on the fuel system such as new filter or lift pump? If not, the first place to start is with the security and condition of the spill pipes on the injectors. They can let air creep in over night when the engine is off leading to difficult starting. Inspect them very carefully as any cracks can be very tiny and difficult to spot. If they are fine, systematically check the security of all the unions in the fuel system.

How is the engine running now Ralph since the rebuild?

Which one? There is a shell garage near to me on the west bound A303 just after Podimore which is now a Texaco.

I guess you could argue this is all subjective without any figures as a comparison. There is more energy in a litre of diesel than a litre of svo so the opposite should be true in theory. There are a lot of scientific papers onnthe subject which can be googled that deacribe the difference in viscosity which could be affecting how the different fuels are being injected into the cylinders by your engine. They also talk a lot about deposits formed from svo. I know you say your pump and injectors are well maintained; have you tried running a few tank fulls of straight diesel with an injector cleaning additive to see what happens? Also, is the fuel filter clean and water free?

Looks great, I've got similar work to do on my Nuffield universal 3.

Dot matrix printers and hand written dates. Great stuff. It's a good job I have never worked on the production line as no one would be able to read my writing!

I'm in the process of refreshing the interior of my 110. I took the grotty covers off the sun visors to find this written in red biro. Possibly the build date of my 1988 110? I love finding things like this.

It looks like it is sand to me. If you contact the company in the link they will send you some colour cards to match it against. https://paintman.co.uk/shop/land-rover-sand-lrc004/

Did you also replace the steering damper Richard? Before I replaced mine, it started to drive like pushing a dodgy supermarket trolley.