monkie

The running in period is especially important for allowing the new piston rings and honed surface of the bores to bed in. Glazing is what you must avoid. Drive normally and don't let the engine labour in too high a gear or sit at idle for prolonged periods during the running phase of 500-1000 miles. Renew the oil and filter as you say after 500 miles. Regular oil changes are a good thing anyway, I change mine twice a year. I always have a few new oil filters in my garage with a 25 litre drum of engine oil, that way you don't put off an oil change because you haven't got the stuff to do it.

I agree, It's been a little while since I renewed the tank and fittings on my 110 and I think I remember how the fitting into the top (part 20 [NTC2156] on the picture below) of the tank didn't go that far down. I think it will either be pulling air from here or from the joints in the fuel lines.

I think dropping the tank is a good idea and taking a look at what you have. I think it is probably pulling air from somewhere around the tank. Does it make any difference if the tank is full to the brim? Might be worth taking the fuel feed from the sender and the return back to the top. Replace the fuel lines too as Western says.

Before pointing the finger at a faulty starter motor have you bridged the earth with a jump lead?

The main wires to check at the starter motor are the ones shown in Western's picture above. These are a sod to get at as they sit under the engine manifolds. For safety, disconnect the negative terminal from the battery first then check the security of the white/red wire with a spade terminal (as Western describes), this is the wire from the starter relay. Then check the main positive feed to the starter motor from the battery where it connects to the main bus on the starter solenoid (shown in Western's picture with the thick red feed from the battery insulated with a rubber boot). This also has brown wires taking the positive feed to the other circuits on the same connection. All these have ring terminals held inplace with a 13mm [I think] nut. Finally check the security of the clamp on the positive terminal on the battery and the point where the negative terminal connects to the engine/gearbox before clamping the negative wire back on the negative terminal of the battery. You can also take a jump lead from the negative terminal of the battery and clip it as close to the starter motor mounts as possible (without coming in contact with the positive feed wire!). This will by pass any poor earth conection to the starter motor.

In these instances of not being able to get to a shop, I find it handy to know the password to my wife's Amazon Prime account for next day delivery . If you do use sunflower oil as a tempory measure; before you try to cut the wood, hold the saw with the nose of the bar pointing towards a piece of scrap wood and allow the chain the spin up to opperating speed for a second or two. You should see a light spray of oil appear on the wood if the oiler is providing sufficient oil to the chain and bar so you know you are good to proceed with a well lubricated chain. Oils that are readily to hand (like engine oil for example) maybe mineral or synthetic based (or a blend of the two), mono or multigrade viscosities of varying viscosity and contain a whole host of additives such as anti foaming agents, detergents, antioxidants. It is obviously dependant upon what the oil is primarily intended for; in your case, frying chips!

I agree with the above in terms of spreading an unknown substance all over woodland. I have 2 Stihl saws with chain, bar and sproket in good condition I wouldn't be risking an unknown oil on my saws given the cost of replacing parts for premature wear versus the relatively cheap chain oil. I also think you should adjust the automatic oiler for different oil types so probably best to stick with one known oil type.

There are a few basic things you can check to start with: (1) Despite being nearly new, the battery could have insufficient charge for a number of reasons. It is possible for a battery to have just enough power to put your lights on but not enough to turn the engine over. Get the battery charged and try again. If this doesn't work, try step 2. (2) Loose wires/poor earth to the starter motor. Check the security of the wires from the battery to the starter motor including the earth lead. If they proove to be fine, connect a jump lead from the negative terminal of the battery to the engine block then try and start it.

How about the damper, is that functioning as it should?

You've gone and said it now!.... let battle commence!😁

The rear crank seal is my first thought also. Have you retained the LT77 transmision and used the flywheel housing from the 12J engine with a new oil seal for a 12J engine? Also is the seal a genuine LR seal? I can never get a cheap seal to hold oil back on the rear crank.

I've seen one of these little camo peugeots driving round my village with oil barrels in a roof rack. Everytime I see it I think how embarrassing it would be to take it to a garage for an MOT or new tyres. Some people have no shame.

As above. I think the best way to get a good a realistic idea of what to ask for in terms of money is to do your homework thorougherly. Research what similar vehicles are selling for on popular market places like ebay, autotrader, Land Rover magazines etc. Why are some selling for <£2,000 (wrecked chassis/bulkhead, long list of major work to do for MOT) but others go for much more (rebuilt engine, galv chassis, smart interior, new tyres, long MOT....)? As an example, good tyres with plenty of life are often overlooked by buyers and sellers in my experience; replacing all 4 tyres with ones worth having is not cheap. When you are clear in your mind of what your competition is and how much they are asking, you are then in a strong place to deal with buyers who just want to come and haggle with you for a lower price.

This is why the true answer is subjective. What do you place most importance on? It's why I stick to a 19J (I'm not going to claim it is the best engine made though!), I don't use it as a daily driver, I don't care about it being not that fast. I want it to be original for a late 1980's Land Rover, the era I find nostalgic. Others will place importance on other things. I think it is the variety in Land Rovers that makes them so interesting.

There are 2 configurations of the 200 tdi: The Defender version (turbo up high like the 2.5 TD) and the Discovery (Turbo low down like a 300 Tdi). Which do you have fitted?

I have a 19J and considered the intercooler but I wanted to keep the original look so I haven't fitted one. Piston damage occures from hot spots on the piston crown (one reason why an intercooler can help). One of the biggest causes of hot spots is irregular combustion that can arise from worn fuel injectors giving a poor spray pattern. If you haven't done so already, have your injectors reconditioned or exchange them for reconditioned injectors. Don't drive too mad and your pistons should be fine.

This was a UK only requirement a number of years ago. Do as Western describes above and the problem should be resolved.

I would define best as an acceptable balance of power/torque, clean, efficient, smooth and reliable. The more reliable the engine is surely the less importance can be placed on maintenance (except basic service)? There will of course have to be compromise somewhere and I think that is where the subjectivity creeps in. Which engine fits all of that criteria best if it was marks out of 10 for each? I think a Tdi will score well but be let down on the marks for not being clean nor particularly smooth compared to later engines.

I have never driven a Tdci Defender, but I would hope that the latest engine should be the best. At least in theory anyway.

thanks for the additional pointers. I think the original spec says 15 Amp for the blower motor, I am reluctant to stick in a higher rated fuse from a safety point of view. I will address the poor connection first. I understand the logic behind the second hand fuses from a scrap yard and I my 110 has many parts sourced from my local LR scrap yard in Glastonbury BUT how do I know if the fuses I scavenge from a used vehicle are original and surely I must be able to buy good fuses from somewhere?

So far I have nothing to compare them with. I don't know who makes the fusesI have. They are packed in the said shop's own brand.

Thanks for this. I will get round to the re-wire at some point in 2019 as the electrical problems I am coming up against are getting more frequent. In the mean time I am going to solder in a new terminal as the old one is corroded and loose, I will also get some (of what I hope) better quality fuses from Autosparks.

Thanks both. I think it qualifies as all of the above. The fuse is certainly loose in the holder and I know previous owners have been chopping about with the wiring over the past 31 years, it is a cheap fuse from a well known national chain motoring (slowly turning into a camping) shop and yes there is corrosion. I think you have given me plenty to go on and accelerated once again my plans for the re-wire! Thanks

1988 110 standard condition - except the fuse holder looks to be a later type from 300 Tdi (blade fuses rather than the earlier glass cartridge type). The fuse to my heater fan has not blown however the plastic casing has obviously got hot and started to melt. My only thoughts are it could be caused by a bad connection to the fuse or it is rated too high (15 Amp currently fitted). There is no sign of burning or melting on the wires to the heater motor. Does anyone know what would cause this? It is the only fuse with this problem. I have replaced the fuse and all is working fine, but I don't want a fire!

As Red90 says. Even though the coolant gauge may show the engine is at operating temperature, that doesn't necessarily mean the engine oil will be to temperature. Engine oil temperature lags quite alot behind coolant temperature.