monkie

Can you post a video of the sound made on your engine? I don't understand how glowplugs could be responsible for knocking noises from the bottom end. Glowplugs or injectors that are not properly sealed usually cause a ticking or chuffing noise. Did you use a little copper grease on the glow plug threads and tighten with a torque wrench? Also did you take the head off? If you so, did you replace the domed washers in the head where the injector nozzels sit? This can cause noise if not sealed properly as can a leaking exhaust manifold gasket.

19J shown below, I'm sure the 200Tdi will be the same. There is a locating dowel on the crank for the flywheel so you can only put it on in one position. The fact that when the pump sprocket was moved resulted in an improvement suggests to me that the pump timing is not quite right.

mmgemini is the person whose daughter might be able to help.

It's certainly going to be seat dependant and they have come along way since 1990. The car seat I have with the side protection definitely wouldn't fit 3 across. Have you tried contacting sparco to see what they say? It's one thing to get them to fit and another thing to get them to fit safely. There's a Mike on here (can't remember his username - someone might know who I'm talking about) whose daughter works with children's car seats. Might be worth dropping him a PM if someone knows who I'm talking about.

To add to the above... I have recently purchased an extended rear facing seat for my daughter which has the side protection (Axkid minikid) and to be honest I could not see 3 of them fitting properly side by side in a 110.

Not your part of the country I appreciate but there is an excellent car seat shop in Milton Keynes called in car safety centre where they know what they are talking about and will fit the seats for you. I have found the car seat manufacturers cybex and britax helpful when I contacted them directly. All that said I don't travel with my kids in my 110 so I haven't tried to put their seats in.

Great news to hear that what the issue was, in the end it was sorted.

I want to say yes, but I honestly can't remember exactly if it did do it when cold - I don't think so. Any way it certainly did it at normal temperature and that is when I made the adjustments. I don't have the problem now.

Did this problem start straight away after the pump was refitted? If so it is worth speakign the diesel specialist first, would it be possible to drive there so they can see the problem? My 19J had this poblem when I rebuilt it. Turned out to be the throttle lever was out of sync with the idle adjustment (the smaller lever with no cable attached). I think from memory I backed the throttle adjustment right back then got the tick over speed set by adjusting the stop on the smaller lever. I hope that makes sense!

Ralph, are those photos above before or after the rebuild? I only ask because of those great photos of a pristine looking 200tdi once you had rebuilt it, unsullied by road grime 🙂

I managed to get it done the way Richard (Reb78) described above as in the end I didn't have the time to make the holding tool. It would have been easier if I had, but got it all sorted in the end. The old seal had certainly had it's day. Thanks all for the help.

As above. Halfords for example do a box with an assortment of o-rings of many sizes. It is handy to keep a box around.

Here is a disclaimer - I don't really know as I have not done this, but I think I have heard of this somewhere so I am advising caution and look into this further before doing anything or maybe someone who knows for sure can clarify if this is true or not: You've kind of said it yourself with the DPF, that is just another way of meeting certain emissions criteria for diesel engines, but it isn't the only way a diesel engine can be made to meet emissions regulations of the time of introduction for that engine. I don't think you'd get as far as an MOT, its the paperwork side when you register the engine swap. The Td5 was introduced to meet stricter regulations on emissions than the Tdi. I reckon when you try to register the change on your V5 is when you would potentially run into trouble. I would speak with the DVLA before doing anything. You don't want to spend money and time on a project to be told computer says no! A vehicle made in 2001 for example would have to meet emissions regulations of 2001 or regulations coming up a year or two down the line. Fitting it with an engine from 1996 would mean that the vehicle would no longer meet the regulations it was designed to meet by 5 years! That is the problem I think you would run into.

The arguments of why would you want to put to one side - legally speaking, are you even allowed to down grade Td5 engine to a 300Tdi from an emissions point of view? I've got it in my head that you are not, but I don't know where this has come from. I think a Td5 is Euro III and a 300 Tdi is Euro II or even Euro I.....? I've never had a Td5, but I understand that the fears over poor reliability of electronic diesel fuel systems turned out to be misplaced. The reality as I see it no matter whether it is a Tdi, Td5 or even a puma they are all getting on abit - it totally depends on how it has been looked after which is often a leap of faith with a second hand car.

The one I used looked very much like it was designed to flex as the pivot was not horizonal until it had the weight of the engine applied to it. In terms of height, they hold the engine at a nice height to work on. When rebuilding, work on the bottom half first to get the crank etc sorted, turn it 90' and slide the pistons in then turn a further 90' and work on the top end. Once the head is on there should be no need to turn the engine 180'...... unless you have dropped a nut or screw inside the engine 🤪

I use a battery powered LED work light. It will charge from USB or a car 12v cigar lighter. It lasts hours on one charge, is very bright and you have the added bonus of no wires. https://www.screwfix.com/p/luceco-led-usb-rechargeable-site-light-10w-5v/5276K?tc=KA8&ds_kid=92700019905806947&ds_rl=1248181&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1249481&gclid=CjwKCAjw8uLcBRACEiwAaL6MSYtj2mv_snlI_FzZYZNX-iiVEcuA5Y4zf77hTwCVBighJlrfTAF5MhoC41kQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CPGFzqentt0CFaeoUQodOykBgA

The engine stand I used for my 19J (has an iron head so is heavier than a Tdi) did flex but I think they are designed to. I would not contemplate turing the engine with the head on as it might whip round and hurt you, plus it would be a bugger of a job to turn it back upright. Once the head was off it was fine to turn on the stand.

Thanks to all for the responses, as usual all are really helpful. Considering I'm going to the job as Richard describes, 160 Nm is tight in my books when crawling on your back with a torque wrench in hand, grit in your eye and no doubt it just starts to rain!

That was the product I was looking at Richard. Given your success I think I will give that one a go. Out of interest, where did 120 ft-lb come from? That seems quite tight to me (163 Nm) but if that is the consensus and that's what you did.....

Did you just replace the seal or did you get the kit with the new flange as well? I'm thinking I might as well do both but in doing so it might mean that tightening the nut back to the marks painted on may well be meaningless?

Just to add Paddy, I understand that the rear diffs on a 110 are different to those on a 90 but I'm not sure how they differ in terms of this job.

The link to the video is here. I'll hopefully get round to it over the next few weekends and I will post an update. I will make the holding tool in the week that Ianmayco68 kindly put the plans up for.

Really helpful. Thank you very much. I shall get myself some 6mm steel.

Thanks for that useful info. I watched a video on it and they made a tool not half as good as that one you've got. Do you have the measurements of the holes handy please?

The MOT is approaching next month so I have spent quite a bit of time under my 110 with the MIG sorting out a couple of patches on the chassis and putting a new exhaust system on. Whilst doing this I noticed that the rear diff is starting to leak at the drive flange so I want to nip this in the bud. I've never done anything with either diff (other than oil change) so I don't know what to expect really. For those who have been here before, is it worth while getting the flange kit as in the link below or just the seal? (I'm considering the middle option with a lower price tag than LR but not one from a blue box). Also what about the bearing while I'm here, is that a job that can be done without stripping the diff? https://www.lrdirect.com/STC4457-Flange-Oem/