monkie

Land Rover 110, 1989 (no ABS). I need to replace worn out swivel pin housings due to pitting and scoring. Is this the correct product number please? TIR100000 not FTC5105 https://www.brit-car.co.uk/search.php?query=TIR100000+&xBrand=&part_type=&xSupplierID=&product-sort=&xPerPage=10

But just look at all of those wires and switches, you could pretend you are driving the Ghost buster's car. It must be worth it for the copper alone..... no wonder he has a fire extinguisher to hand.

Maybe you use the windows? The seller does say "not for the faint hearted".

No, I wouldn't. Aluminium is an odd metal in that it will dissolve in both acid and alkali solutions. Hyperchlorate is usually supplied in a strongly alkali solution. I would only use either solvents or the commercial degreasing agents suggested above.

Sometimes caustic solutions are used for cleaning oily parts and can be done DIY at home. This is fine for iron things but I wouldn't be tempted to do this on aluminium parts in my opinion. An overnight soak in a solvent such as white spirit (this stuff is still quite cheap at places like toolstation) followed by a scrub in the morning has suprisingly good effect on oily engine parts. I use a paint roller tray filled with white spirit for smaller items, it kind of works like a little parts cleaner.

I used white spirit and old tooth brushes. Worked well.

I've always thought that it was to do with EDC, but found this and you are right....

EDC - Electronic Diesel Control. " The EDC engine has a different fuel injection pump which connects to the accelerator through an electronic signal as opposed to the standard steel cable. It is more common on the Discovery 300Tdi. " Taken from here

My understanding is that most people who convert from a 12J to Tdi use the 19J (2.5TD) exhaust system as it fixes to the chassis off the same mounting points but is wider diameter to cope with more gas flow from a turbo. I'm sure this off the shelf option would be the most cost effective way to do it if you just want a standard system.

Do you know what caused the problem? Turbo oil seal?

Looks like aluminium hydroxide to me. If it is, it might be because the coolant was too dilute/old so the pH of your coolant was off.

Just for comparison as this will always be lower than a Tdi. My 2.5TD (19J) in my 110 gives me 22-23 mpg on a long run dropping to 18-19mpg on town driving carrying stuff about. I have the standard air intake system, no snorkel. I do have to work it hard up hills which is one of the reasons why I think it is low.

That picture looks like ATF to me, but have you tried blotting a spot of ATF and a bit of EP90 on some paper either side of sample from the leak? It might show a helpful comparison. If that doesn't help, you can get fluorescent dyes to add to the gear box oil. Never used them myself but might be worth a try? https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/302701362993?chn=ps&adgroupid=51456964475&rlsatarget=pla-429319282044&abcId=1130086&adtype=pla&merchantid=118934974&poi=&googleloc=1007265&device=c&campaignid=1029031424&crdt=0

Me too. I don't think I will ever be convinced by people coming with environmental policies that a petrol V8 is fine but on the other hand a 200/300 Tdi is unacceptable . I guess I will just have to go with the flow.

Nope, not me. I used to use my Dad's torque wrench (Britool) from the 1950/60s and that was a clicky one too.

Right, from all of your responses I think the best thing to do is to get them calibrated because I've not been storing them correctly then I'm going to do things properly and wind them back after each use and hang them up. Thank you for all the input.

Thanks for the replies. Interesting reading

Thanks for that link. Some interesting points there. I think from now on I will do the wise thing and wind the dial back to zero after use. I wonder how many people have followed point number 10...? I haven't in the past. It's obvious though now it's been pointed out.

An update. I've not actively done anything about the fuel pump with respect to the black smoke issue; however I have changed the fuel filter, driven around quite a few miles only using BP diesel with Millers fuel treatment in it and to be honest the problem was not going away. I was leaving trails of thick black sooty smoke. I was fiddeling about with the heater and then the waste gate actuator on the turbo caught my attention. It moved freely but I thought the air pipe from the turbo in to the actuator looked loose. I tightened up the joints then took it for a drive...... Smoke gone, even when going foot to the floor up a steep hill. Very pleased that this too has turned out to be a cheap fix. Don;t know if it was the loose pipe or just moving the actuator to free it up but it has seemingly done the trick.

I always pay attention to torque figures in the manual when working on my 110, however to be totally honest I do not wind my torque wrenches back to 0 nor hang them up after use. I have two torque wrenches that I use regularly, both from Halfords and were supplied in a nice tube with a calibration certificate. Am I compromising the accuracy by not winding them back to 0 and hanging them up after use? Should I get them calibrated periodically? If yes to the above, any recommendations for where to calibrate them?

It sounds to me like you are describing leaking valve stem seals seeing that it seems to be from cold then clears on its own when up to normal running temperature. A compression test could help to confirm an otherwise healthy engine.

Oh no. That is frustrating. Are you absolutely sure that is coming from where it looks like it is in the picture? Could it possibly be a leak from the rocker cover gasket making it's way down there and fooling you? If the answer is no to that optimistic solution then the next question is - have you noticed high crankcase pressure at all (when warm take the oil filler cap off and does it puff oil fumes out?) The head gasket isn't that hard a job to do on these engines except the head is iron so it is very heavy - best to have help to lift it off/back on again. Click Here for a good guide and I would recommend the following: Get a good composit head gasket i.e Elring (land rover part # ERR3618) not a cheap one unless you enjoy doing this particular job and want to do it again soon You will need new injector seals (land rover part # 12H220L) and make sure you get the old ones out of the head first! Make sure the head and block surfaces are clean and flat. Take the head to an engineering shop if necessary for a check and skim. Clean the threads on the head bolts and block (1/2 UNF thread) then wipe them with an oily cloth (don't dip them in oil) Its a good opportunity to check the condition of the valve seats and give them a grinding if necessary

Sender and wire replaced. Gave it a good run today up some steep hills to get the oil hot. Not even a flicker of a warning light at hot tick over. Very pleased to have fixed this for under a fiver and less than half an hour's work

Its a long time ago now, but I seem to remember two separate issues at the time that the press were talking about. Phasing out leaded petrol as far as I remember (I was still at school so it does seem a foggy memory to me) did seem to coincide with the introduction of catalytic converters fitted to cars and yes there was much published about poising your catalyst if you fill up with 4star. I do also remember the environmental part being on the news. I think it was also a similar time to when there was a lot in the news about acid rain and they were showing pictures of dead forests in Norway and Sweden then "smoke" coming from a car exhaust.

That's a nice graph. The average shows atleast a 1'C rise during the period shown. That is significant. Also the extreme higher temperatures seem to be getting more frequent.