sierrafery

No, IMO the ECM uses the MAF inputs for that

there could be some inputs missing there cos the ECM has to make corrections for the athmosferic pressure : http://landrover.workshop-manuals.com/discovery300tdi/index.php?id=315 ...IMO worth a try with an other MAF...maybe u'll see some difference

U could put a new AAP(Ambient Air Temperature and Pressure) sensor though...cos it's his job to compensate the altitude...u'll not know it's faulty unless u read some live data or check voltages...here is from the Workshop manual- engine management >Td5(if we speak about this one?) :The AAP sensor is located in the top of the air filter housing. It provides voltage signals relative to both ambient airpressure and temperature to the ECM. The AAP sensor produces a voltage between 0 and 5 volts proportional to thepressure level of the air in the air filter housing. A reading of 0 volts indicates low pressure and a reading of 5 voltsindicates high pressure. The ECM uses the signal from the AAP sensor for the following functions:l To maintain manifold boost pressure. l To reduce exhaust smoke emissions while driving at high altitude. l Control of the EGR system.

AFAIK yes, it's the "thor" engine in it... for the enhancements watch the warnings on self check, if they light up it means it's equipped... i mean SLS and ACE cos the TC is there on all "by default"

it could be the spigot bush aswell...but what ever it is it's a gearbox off job so live with it untill it becomes necessary to replace the whole clutch assy...anyway dont forget about the spigot bush then...it's very cheap but could make strange noises and give you troble... people used to forget about it

dont bother with the special equipment ...you can DIY

Microcat is the way to go.... u dont find what you want in RAVE... but download one anyway cos it's very usefull

it's deffinately a pipe as it's happening only with engine running so there is pressure... they used to rub against the cross member or through the plastic sleeve which covers the wires ... the tank must be removed for fix though... unless it's somewhere near the filter housing

my only comment is on the headlamp powerwash: before u go further check the fuse F4(20A) and relay R3(swap it with R8-heated screen for test)... engine bay fusebox

Conventional Anti-roll Bars ...like on those without ACE fitted, e.g http://www.brit-car....php?xProd=90243 , and the ACE has torsion bars and actuators which are controlled by the ACE ECU through the valve block with high pressure fluid... looks like in the attachment

The two systems are totaly separated... there are D2's without one or another... the only thing used by both theyrs management is a road speed signal which is used by other systems too but not very common to disturb them. in order of occurance IMO: - for SLS the most common faults are airbag leaks, pipe/valve leaks, height sensor failures, compressor burnout...rarely different wiring or management issues - for ACE: pipe/seal leaks and pressure transducer are the most common faults(this one is a very expensive system to maintan and if the valve block or pump fails IMO it's better to convert to classic ARB's cos it doesnt make big difference) ..in contradistinction with the SLS which i would keep what ever it takes cos this one makes a huge improvement

anything is possible if u are handy and determined enough.... just be aware that it's up to 135 Bar pressure there when ACE kicks in

it seems a passive immobilisation issue: analise this : Passive immobilisation Passive immobilisation prevents the vehicle from being started unless the authorised key is used to start the vehicle. There are only two configurations for passive immobilisation: l passive immobilisation not active l passive immobilisation active When the ignition is switched off, the vehicle remains mobilised for up to a maximum of 5 minutes. If however the driver's door is opened, after 2 minutes 30 seconds, the vehicle remains in a mobilised state for a further 30 seconds. When the timer in the BCU has expired, the vehicle is immobilised. Once the ignition is switched on, the BCU transmits a coded signal to the ECM. If the coded signal does not correspond to the programmed code in the ECM, the ECM is inhibited and the BCU inhibits the starting circuit. In order for passive immobilisation to occur, the following conditions must be met: l Driver's door closed. l Fuel cut-off switch not tripped. l Key not inserted in ignition. Passive remobilisation Whenever the vehicle is immobilised, passive remobilisation of the engine occurs when the ignition is switched on, allowing the vehicle to be started. There are three configurations for passive remobilisation: l Passive immobilisation not active. l Passive immobilisation active. l EKA with super locking on receiving good passive remobilisation exciter coil signal. The BCU controls the passive remobilisation exciter coil (located around the ignition barrel) to generate a magnetic field which causes the handset to transmit a remobilisation signal. The BCU receives the signal and allows the vehicle to be started. If a valid signal from the handset is not received within one minute of the ignition being switched to position II, the BCU stops the passive coil from generating the magnetic field.

off course it has a management implication too especially if it's in short circuit to earth or to vehicle supply cos it disturbes the ECM's internal voltages... but if it was open circuit u might have not even noticed it.... try with a new one, see the difference and come back with the impressions

If the EGR is blanked IMO there will be no noticeable difference. The MAF sensor is not a vital part of engine management, it's part of emmision controll system...

u can go with MAF unplugged without probs just dont be be violent with the throttle... if u have the EGR blanked it's even better cos the EGR management is based on MAF inputs too... If EGR still on u can try to disconnect and clog well(with a rivet or something) the vacuum hoses from the EGR and ILT valves(seeing that yours is a 2004 modell)...the car will be more responsive.(it's a kind of non-invasive EGR blanking)

no probs, the management will use a default value stored in memory untill u put a good MAF....and go for genuine ...the MPG in this case is very "leg sensitive" if u know what i mean

make sure all the warning lights are working on self test...especially the SLS. ACE(if fitted) and the ABS .... i saw too many cases of "blanked" warnings

if the second key is dead from some reason(maybe interrupted circuit within) then the passive remobilisation coil doesnt comunicate with it: "The passive remobilisation exciter coil consists of a coil around the steering column lock. The coil energises to create a magnetic field when the ignition is switched to position II.This coil activates the handset initiating the mobilisation of the vehicle. (RAVE)" so the fob must be fully functional to start the car...unless u deactivatte the passive immobilisation...it's a setting in the BCU configurable with tester,( nanocom, hawkeye,etc)

here u have everything about D1 ABS testing...(it's regardless of the engine, v8 or diesel it's the same) ... figures are at the end of the file ABS_D1_V8_codes.pdf

must be something similar like here http://www.landroverclubvi.com/uploa...8603nasf_1.pdf or here http://www.landroverclubvi.com/uploa...de8610nasf.pdf The EKA u can get from dealer or others might not be the one actually stored in BCU cos it's changeable with tester ... i changed mine too as to be like my card's pin to not forget it ... the sure way is to read it with tester, and set the alarm in BCU to "always disarm with key" mode

Nanocom or hawkeye...the ABS amigo doesnt worth that money for what it can do...u put a bit more but u'll have all the systems covered....blink test is just for D1 and RRC

read the fault codes when u have the chance(not at steales off course)... the stored codes will put you in the right direction 100% sure that if u get "air gap too large... " code u must replace the hub there.... cos hub and SVS faults are intermittent... and the light actually goes off above 9 mph

The interior courtesy lamps are timed... if a door was opened a longer time then closed without turning ignition the lamps will not work. Do they work when you turn ignition off? ...if yes check again after locking/unlocking doors...if not, and taking into account the alarm/fob missbehaviour too check for water ingress at the BCU's plugs and u can try to join together the purple/blue trace wires from highligted plug in the pic.... water ingress from the windscreen is causing corrosion in the plugs there The BCU is not far from this plug on the same post but u have to remove the glovebox to reach it

Hi, the first thing u must do is to find a helpfull chap with nanocom or hawkeye to plug it in and see the setting in the BCU, cos it has two setting for this: Programmed wash/ wipe 1.Normal = The front wipers operate if the front wash is operated. 2.No wipe = The front wipers do not operate if the front wash is operated. It might be setted on "No wipe" If it's setted on Normal and still doesnt work then things are getting complicated cos this wash/wipe system on D2 is managed by the BCU(body controll unit) and the IDM(intelligent driver module - part of the internal fusebox)