sierrafery

all of them or just the front one? ... it's important to know cos they are managed by the BCU a door switch would have disturbed the alarm too...and the SLS if fitted

You-re on the good road checking the internal fusebox/IDM ... next step must be the BCU/it's plugs behind the glovebox, water ingress there is quite common, or dry joints inside of the unit...or faulty BCU or IDM in the worst case... coz: The BCU uses solid-state microprocessor control to perform logical operations and timing functions for a variety of the vehicle's electrically operated systems, these include: Door locking. Anti-theft alarm and immobilisation system. Exterior lighting including direction indicators and hazard warning lamps. Courtesy lighting. Wipers and washers. Electric windows and sunroof. Heated windows. The BCU communicates with the IDM to provide the control signals to perform power switching operations in conjunction with dedicated relays. IDM The IDM is integrated into the passenger compartment fuse box, which is mounted behind the fascia below the steering column. There are no harnesses between the fuse box and the IDM. The IDM performs the power switching operations for several of the vehicle's electrical systems. IDM outputs The IDM receives the following signals from the BCU using the serial datalink to provide power outputs: Description Signal type System Unlock all doors enable Digital Locking/ Unlocking/ Alarm Lock passenger and rear doors enable Digital Locking/ Unlocking/ Alarm Superlock all doors enable Digital Locking/ Unlocking/ Alarm Lock driver's door Digital Locking/ Unlocking/ Alarm Rear fog lamps enable Digital Exterior lighting Daylight running lamps enable Digital Exterior lighting LH direction indicators enable Digital Direction indicators/ Hazard warning/ Alarm RH direction indicators enable Digital Direction indicators/ Hazard warning/ Alarm Gear position indicator illumination Digital Illumination Headlamp main beam indicator disable Digital Illumination Front wiper enable Digital Wipers and washers Rear wiper enable Digital Wipers and washers Rear window enable Digital Power windows Shift lever solenoid enable Digital Automatic gearbox Transfer box solenoid enable/ Alarm sounder relay Digital Gearbox Heated rear window enable Digital Heated screens So as u can see it's quite complicated... seeing those inputs/outputs u figure it out where the problem lays. The best woud be to get hold of a known good fusebox/IDM and swap it with yours for test, just take into account that: The IDM communicates with the BCU and the instrument pack via a serial interface. If the BCU or the IDM is replaced, the communications link between the two units has to be re-established. This can be done either by switching on the ignition and leaving it on for five minutes, or by using TestBook. The vehicle immobilisation will remain active until the communications link between the BCU and IDM has been re-established. Good luck

Seems like the MFU is playing up(supposing it's a D1)... u can run a test for it : Close all doors and the tailgate. NOTE: If the oil pressure switch goes open circuit (engine is started) during the following procedure, the MFU will exit the diagnostic mode immediately. Press and hold the heated rear screen switch and switch on the ignition. Release the heated rear screen switch within 2 seconds and the MFU will beep to indicate that it's in diagnostic mode 1. Press the heated rear screen switch; the MFU will beep twice. In turn, operate each of the following switches, heated front screen, rear fog guard lamps, side lights, headlights, front wiper, and rear wiper. The MFU will beep twice each time a switch is operated. Pressing the heated rear screen again will cause the MFU to enter diagnostic mode 2. The MFU will provide outputs to the following in order given below: Heated rear screen relay energized for 2 seconds Heated front screen energized for 2 seconds Courtesy lights energized for 2 seconds Dim dip relay energized for 2 seconds Rear fog guard lamp energized for 2 seconds Headlamp power wash energized for half a second Front wiper energized for half a second Rear wipe/wash energized for half a second The MFU will then exit the diagnostic mode. If the test fails INO u need a new MFU(multi function unit), is mounted on the rear of the passenger compartment fusebox and has an input to operation of the following: Heated rear screen Heated front screen Courtesy lights Side and headlights Rear fog guard lamps Headlamp power wash Front wipers Rear wash/wipe

IMO the master cylinder was faulty from the beginning,...try to use some teflon tape on the thread of the damper

IMO the SLS is brilliant...it could make some tricks but generally it's not a complicated system and not very expensive to maintain... much cheaper than the ACE anyway

According to RAVE 6. Select 4th gear and move lever fully to the right and tighten bias plate adjustment bolts to 25 Nm (18 lbf.ft).

assuming it's a D1 ... cos on a D2 it's more complicated

Hi, IMO beware of auto...quite a lot problems with the autobox management...and very expensive to fix. D2's dont have too much rust issues, and the rust is the easyest to fix on them... The most important is to make sure there are not hidden faults when you buy it so watch carefully the warning lamps self check on ignition... an ES must be like a christmas tree firs then all lamps must extinguish...concentrate on the ABS. If u are determined download RAVE(rave01.iso) from here http://www.myrangero...Rover/RAVE.html cos u'll need it anyway and see the workshop manual - instruments description to know which warning lamps must be on(according to equipment)...some sellers used to hide active warnings by putting black tape on them from behind. Take a drive test and make sure u will love the D2 otherwise it could make you the impression that it's not reliable.... which is just an impression

u need a tester to program a two button fob ... dont mix "programming" with "syncronizing"...just to sync. a two button fob if it lost power is enough to lock 4 times

I can tell you just that on D2 is 51 x 85.5 cm ...you can measure it on yours

there is a bulletin on that kind of behaviour for 300tdi in Autodata(it's copy/paste protected)... they say "poor connections inside the engine bay fusebox -> remove fusebox inner and outer cover - check battery positive lead screw and alternator output lead screw" If u are already there check all plugs and connections.

everything is possible if u are determined enough ... but u'll have to modify them cos the D2's boot is a bit longer than the D1's. U just have to find a way to fit and fix them there....it might not be the answer u are looking for

see this too http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=45226 , are u sure it's not the pump to engine pipe?

As long as the fob works one way or another it means it didnt lose syncronization... when sync. is lost the fob will not work at all ... if the fob must be close to the receiver IMO it has not enough power

unplug the diflock switch on the transfer box front output housing's left side and see if the light goes off then...if yes check with ohmeter on the switch's terminals with difflock disengaged...if it's closed circuit the switch is faulty

the wiring gets damaged where the loom enters from the body into the door

Hi, u are speaking about ACE leak then about air... the ACE(active cornering enhancement - hydraulic system) has nothing to do with SLS(self levelling suspension - pneumatic)... this one's valve block/compressor is on N/S...the leak from ACE valve block is most obviously from one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Discovery-2-ACE-Valve-Block-Seals-RVW100010-/370485962264 or the pipe where enters in it, see which side is leaking and replace all the seals there... refill the reservoir and go for a harsh ride and it'll bleed itself... be aware, do not let the reservoir to get empty cos u'll lose the pump and then it will be very expensive...so it will if a pipe is leaking.

if u have a 7 pin towing socket with live in pin3(not all are so) insert something in pin 3 as to be able to put a charger on there...if not jack up the front and try to reach the live wire on the alternator then connect the charger there... in about 1 hour u must have enough juice to make the central locking work, unless i's a jump starter type and u'll get in right away.

Are u sure it's not the other way around? cos IMO without egr only pure air from the filter is coming and with egr is mixed with hot exhaust gas

Take out fuse F15 from engine bay, if it stops clicking, put it back and unplug the ACE ECU(behind glovebox) ... if then stops it means the ACE ECU gives a false command.... a good start would be to plug in a tester and scan the ACE. ... if the relay will click even with the fuse out we'll speak again.

Crawl under the car from the passenfer side and u'll see it attached to the gearbox... and there is a quite big plug too

At first sight the cruise controll has nothing to do with reverse lights and PDC... though if it's an automatic check for corrosion/water ingress at the XYZ switch cos this is common for all these systems. If it's a manual see the reverse switch on the gearbox for the reverse issues and the cruise controll must be diagnosed separately

In the eventuality that there's no closed circuit between this wire and earth then connect it to the closest earth rail... as it looks it could be an earth for something at the other side of the harness.

As mr. discomikey said...and if there is no closed circuit between that wire and earth connect it to the closest earth rail

U can also unplug the sensor and measure it's resistance with ohmeter... it must be between 900 - 1100 ohm, then put AC voltmeter on it and rotate the wheel, u must have a certain voltage output there( use a small scale...they say it's 0.95V at 1 rot/sec of the wheel) . If these figures are out of the range, there is open or short circuit on the sensor then get a new one without any remorse. IMO when it's a wheel bearing/reluctor ring issue the fault is intermittent.