Simon_CSK

I had a similar problem however the car went into limp mode. When I got to the bottom of my problem I required a new throttle pedal. Really need to plug it into a computer to see what is going wrong.

I remember hearing about this story when it broke. Sad for the family but the CPS would really only go after easy cases. There are many things we don't know like what were all the defects and how they would have contributed to the accident. Eg if 20 bulbs are blown you have 20 defects non of which would likely have impacted on the wheel falling off. We also don't know the extent to which the vehicle had been modified, when it was done and how competent the conversion was. We are very lucky in that most of us know our vehicles inside out and know how best to keep them maintained even to a basic standard. We regularly discuss modifications and speciality builds and while I have never created and extreme Land Rover I have set a Discovery up for my own specific needs. I consider myself reasonably competent however I did make one mistake that I didn't consider properly (Front tow bar mounting) and while it did not affect the safety of the vehicle it did result in consequential damage to the chassis. My point is that even those of us who understand our vehicles can make mistakes which means that those with little or no experience in this should not be allowed heavily modified vehicles without some form of test.

Your showing your age with the chisels and experience with the saw. 😉

Or some good sharp chisels. (What we did in woodwork at school many many years ago. Ouch is that 40 years)

The hinges go on the left side in the photo so the the weight of the door is supported.

I have a Range Rover Sport and A Discovery 3 both with towbars that I want to remove. The sport has the standard removable one however I didn't get a key with it when I bought the car. I know I can get a new lock kit so is it a case of drilling the lock out or is there something else to do? The D3 has a Witter towbar which has no lock. There is a bolt on top wich I have removed thinking this would release the locking mechanism but no joy. Easy to remove the steady bars as they just bolt on the chassis

That is what I was hoping to hear. I think I broke the gearbox in my TDV8 and am looking at buying a D3 for spares to help fix my two D3's so it will be very helpful if it is the same gearbox.

Does any one know what auto gearbox is in the Range Rover 3.6 TDV8 and the Discovery 3?

Well to start the year I had a Mini Convertible, my CSK, my P38 and two Discovery TD5's I have sold the Mini, a TD5 a Range Rover L322 HSE and a RR L322 TDV8 and now am ending the year with my CSK, my P38, 2 D2's, 2 D3's, 2 Range Rover Sports and a Range Rover Vogue TDV8 so all in all quite a good year. Most of them are running and Mot'd so hopefully on that note I will be able to finish some of them off and reduce my collection Have a great New Year everyone.

I was looking after my baby so with a friend of mine when he got a phone call from his brother saying his car was broken down. Never thought anything of it and offered to help tow his Golf home about 25miles in an Old Range Rover classic with a Transit Di engine conversion. Anyway set off with my friend and little one and recovered him home as said I would. I did the usual warnings about keeping the rope taught and watch for my brake lights. Never felt him the whole way the tow was absolutely consistent. When we pulled up outside his house he had no brakes left neither the car brakes or the hand bake as he had kept them glued on the whole time. I have to say is was a perfect tow from my point of view because the rope never got slack however he would never ask me for a tow again and think he needed new underwear.

Jason I have a Blue 1999 V8 Auto which I have had since the start of lock down. Was meant to be a project and then work got very busy. It was a Cat S when I bought it but cannot find anything wrong with it. It has 92k on the clock and a very nice burble off the exhaust. If you are interested it will have a full years MOT on it. Chassis is good, no welding to date but will need two small holes no bigger than 1in diameter welded for this MOT.

Welcome to the forum. Can you post some pictures.

I have General Grabbers on my P38 and last year they would not get grip in the field to allow me to escape. The field falls 3m in 70 along one edge and 3m in 50 along another. so across the corner it is 6m down from the highest point. My L322 on road tyres and with Mud setting on would not move the car. The field was sodden. In the end after a week I put a winch on it and pulled it the 50m to the gate. I want to be able to come and go in the field in the winter so I can use my paddock but as things stand this will not happen.

Ed do you rate the Duratracs for off road use? They certainly appear to fit the bill.

My L322 of choice has 78k on it with upgraged led lights and a body kit. Looking at prices it is probably around the £9k mark which is more than I paid Now isn't the time to buy an L405 those cars are about to take a thumping and that will be the time to buy IMHO. but L322's will also take a hit so am thinking of offloading before they do.

I am thinking of selling my L322's now and buying a later one after the drop. The issue I have is the the one I want to keep currently has 78k on the clock. The downside is it isn't a 4.4TDV8

The prices will possibly start rising in the next year or two as the replacement for the L402 is due. That will deflate the L402 and the L322 but lift the P38's and the classics.

I now have two D3's one of which I am now going to set up properly. The idea for the tyres is to have them available for when I need them. ATM I have far too many RR's and LR's. I am on the limit to sustain my marriage. For my D2 and my P38 the wheels were inter changeable so I had matching alloys and spares. I am giving up my D2 but have now bought D3 and will probable replace that with a D4 again the wheels between the D3/4 should be interchangeable with the L322 which again I will be keeping. So if I have a set of good off road tyres they will be on one of my vehicles so that I can use it in the field or in extreme weather over the winter and then set it back up with road tyres for the summer. I will not breaking the speed limit (that often ) on off road tyres.

I have a set of 18 inch wheels from a Range Rover L322 which I think will fit so smaller tyres are an option. I am wary about AT's as the General Grabbers on my P38 just clogged in the mud at the gate. As the car will be used as a workhorse leaving my Range Rovers for nice days and weekends the road noise will be less of an issue.

I would agree with you however it isn't my field (yet)! And besides who on here wouldn't want their own personal mud site to play in?

Having had one of my Range Rovers stuck in my muddy field for a week because the road tyres were inadequate for the mud and my Discovery TD5 has finally reached a point where is is time to replace I am working on an idea to set up a Disco 3. My D2 had receiver hitches front and back as well as anderson connectors for a portable winch. This proved very useful on the odd occasion when I needed it so would like to replicate this. The aforementioned feild is where I keep my trailers and access to my paddock, where I repair my cars, however the field is on a down slope, to my house, and whilst I can get a car in even with General Grabber AT tyres I cannot get out. Whilst I had fun on Saturday winching out my RR I did have a brown trouser moment at the gate when one of my outer RR's driven by my neighbour dragged me into a bush and gate post. This is because the gate is restricted and opens on to a B class road right at a junction with major trunk road. I feel the only solution will be fitting a car with a set of good mud terrain tyres. Anybody able to make suggestions for the D3 that don't require body modifications?

Not yet but the BECM needs repaired after a trip to the valeters so has been parked up while I play with some of my other cars.

A wee update on the state of the trailer. Eventually got the trailer cleared and tested as much as I could before trying in anger. Went to Crewe on Thursday to pick up a Toyota Corrolla for my neighbour as I considered this to be the best test before I loaded a Land Rover or Range Rover on it. Setting off we had the two offside wheels sticking every now and the. Took the trailer three miles and checked the wheels were turning and that the bearings were cool. They were touchable so we went a further 40 miles to our next check. Here the OS rear bearing was warm but everything else was good so we kept going to Southwaite services where we stopped for breakfast and to check everything again. Still one worry-some axle but not too worrying. Drove on to Crewe without difficulty and loaded up. Again the bearing was warm but no warmer than before. With the trailer loaded we headed back with a fill up at Haydock to check the load, get fuel and food before the lasts stage. Here the wheel was too hot to touch. We made the decision to press on and check it every hour. After an hour we were at Burton in Kendal Services but I decided to press on to Tebay as everything seemed on. When we got to Tebay all 4 wheels were cool and fine. Made the final run home without any issues. Decided to take the hub off today and everything was fine. The wheel was a little sticky to turn beforehand but did rotate. When off the brake cable while operating was not moving the shoes. The end result of the fire on top of my trailer is that I have to replace the wiring, which wasn't working anyway. Needed two new tyres, relaced one wheel bearing as a precaution and two new brake cables again as a precaution and because the bub was off anyway. After such a very hot fire I think I got off very lightly.

Welcome to the forum. There are those around here that have P38 knowledge and I for one will be happy to help where I can.

Does your RAC policy come with a key replacement? Mine does and have used it a couple of times without any hastle. Car has to be Taxed, MOT'd and insured in your name to qualify.