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honitonhobbit

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Everything posted by honitonhobbit

  1. Need to made from highly tensioned cheese wire coated in ground glass
  2. Only if roof mounted - unless you have a forward control style vehicle; obs this is assuming (a bad thing) that you have the correct lamps fitted to the lights and they are in the correct place as stated in C&U regs... No that you will get pulled unless you have an accident involving death or serious injury. Then. if the lights are found to be a possible reason of said accident, you will do time
  3. My 200! Mind I was out in the Mpi last night experimenting with the limits of handling. I will admit to driving quite rapidly - even to the point of giving a young chap in a D5 a surprise. The Mpi needed a fair bit of metal replaced for it's MoT, but it's all relatively straightforward. Huge fun to drive mind. Don't drop below 2k and it raises big smiles
  4. Much better to fit it on the front of the vehicle where it will actually do some good...
  5. Yes, unless you have a cut off switch - like LR used to get around C&U regs on stuff like the Black and Tomb Raider
  6. Cellular dynamics lasted me 600miles on the disco TF shocks are the most returned damper on the market - they are less than 4 quid a shock to bring in to the UK OME have changed a lot now - very different kettle of chickens and 104 quid a piece. I'd look at Delphi - LR's own gas shock fitment; cheap as chips and very good. Also Monroe 4x4 Adventure, still made down under... Bilstein are the best mid level replacement shock but are expensive
  7. I'd look for a relatively decent 300. TO be honest the drive train is more important than the steel work as it all weldable and there a some good companies - like YRM around to supply panels. The Disco 2 TD5 is a constant money pit - it will always bite the hand that feeds...
  8. Both LROi and LROi Lite (LRM) have some published. TOR has them, but I've not seen a copy of TOR in the shops for over a year.
  9. If you wire in a couple of relays to provide relay feed rather than switched feed, then fit some Ozram Night Blasters 55/65 Bulbs, you'll be fine Is your bus a 200 or 300 '94 200's have these metal heat shields in the headlight that do nothing of any noticeable benefit - they can be removed with a pair of snipe nose pliers and this will increase the light but not effect the beam pattern or reflectivity. You will notice with 200's when you do the above, that you will get a small gap in the beam pattern on high beam - about 50 feet in front of the car or so. This can be sorted with a set of 15 quid motorbike LED spots fastened to the top of the bumper, just inside the line of the main headlights
  10. Under C&U regs you can only replace like with like....
  11. Again a bit far for you, but I'm running a legal and legit greenlane tour through Somerset, Wilts, Hants and Dorset on the 28th. No charge for driving public highways; although I will be holding out the GLASS fighting fund tin. I have two places left on the tour. Some nice lanes
  12. All done on a mobile by Rob Elliot GLASS rep for Dorset.
  13. But run the loom in a protective sleeve outside of the chassis - or in the vehicle. Run an axillary loom totally separate from the main loom - for the 'future' Upgrade the headlights to relay feed - in fact upgrade the electrics wherever possible What engine do you run?
  14. His methods used to develop the Go Devil are a treatise in common sense. To be honest for a bit of a philanderer he was immensely practical
  15. Petrol... I've just ordered my new company car this morning. Benefit in kind goes up next year; and as the car is more of a work tool rather than a family necessity, I've opted to downgrade, take a payment back, reduce my tax and go for a petrol for the first time. I'm going Suzuki Swift 1.2 Dual jet. Thoughts are that if it break, then it's not my problem. Fuel consumption is good and seems almost true form the test drive. I claim back my business miles so I'm happy I can break even... Only issue is I won't be able to carry so much carp in the car
  16. One of my colleagues chose the Eco boost lump for his company car - three engines in 100k. And he's not the only one. They don't like high mileages, driven hard over short periods... Also getting 35mpg out of them is almost impossible for normal driving
  17. I leave the wading plugs in all the time - take them out for a check every couple of weeks or so
  18. Yup - cheaper the starter, less the teeny weeny
  19. brushes decline in efficacy every time they are used - little teeny weeny bits each time. Cheap starters fade quicker
  20. I've avoided fitting the snorkel because I don't do deep water in the Disco. It's a general family hack, training vehicle and tow barge. I really hate drying damp carpets. But I wasn't concentrating. As tail gunner on the greenlane run, I had held back so I could take me five year old for a 'wild wee'. So I hadn't seen the P38 in our group take a different line. I followed the last but one vehicle in - not thinking about his 5 inch lift and 35" tyres - watching the water level on his vehicle. Interestingly, there was no ingress into the induction side - dry as a bone - bearing in mind the air is taken form between the wings, I was quite pleased. The engine bay stayed relatively dry thanks to the bow wave and brief dip. I'm due to service the winch at Christmas anyway...
  21. You still haven't fitted that snorkel... Then you remember you didn't slide the vents to recirculate Then you realise that if you had been practising what you preach, there was a shallower route Thank God it's a 200 so none of the super absorbent sound proofing Sorry they aren't in order
  22. Glow-plugs in a Tdi are not critical. Worth noting that starters decline in efficacy every time they are used Also worth noting that if you are starting in cold - depress the clutch. To warm up the box as well as the lump, nock the T box into neutral and slot the main box into 4th, then let it idle for a while or two Batteries slow discharge in the cold. One of the reasons you never store a battery on a concrete or stone floor.
  23. Delmar G Roos - or Barney Roos was an automotive engineer. Clever bloke. Made the Go Devil engine work, through long term trials. Co designed something called the 'Jeep'
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