honitonhobbit

Viscous

Looks fine Run some injector cleaner through - remember the injectors are a service item and don't last that long Change the oil Clean the oil separator Clean the intercooler Change the fuel filter and air filter Lose the sedimenter Check the turbo I would disagree with my learned colleague Mr Western though - diesels need a bit of a rev every now and then. A good motorway run at 3k every now and then is worth while - although this will take you over the legal limit in 5th

Al's Mk1 is actually a Mk2 You think this is complicated - just try Hi-Lux, there's that many of those in every different shape or form AND Grey Imports If I was selling the Disco, I would look for a M3 Ranger, 2.8 Turbo (Pre D4D) Hi-Lux or a 56/06 Dmax

Mk 2 (also B2500 Mk8) is 99 to 06, Mk 3 (also Mazda BT50) is 06 to 11, then there's two more Mk's since then As far as I am able to tell ALL Mk3's have an LSD - but only the specced up Mk2's. It's not a viscous unit, it's a biased clutch type

Bit more stuff from my notes: Mk 1 engine is an Isuzu 4JA1 Mk2 Engine is a 2.5 WLT Mk3 2.5 Engine is a WLC (141bhp/240ft/lbs) Mk3 3.0 Engine is a WEC (154bhp/280ft/lbs Mk4 started with the above then went downhill to the 2.2Tdci and the 3.2Tdci The WLC/WEC started life in the vehicle with 8 valves, then got 8 more. It runs a Bosch Common Rail and a Variable Geometry Turbo in it's final form I rang a mate who runs a commercials only garage and asked him about the Mk3... He went all dewy eyed on the phone. It was pathetic

I'd use SuperPro bushes - like OEM Rubber just better

I read my first post back and even I couldn't understand it. So lets try again I've used Mk1, 2 and 3 Rangers - so from pre 96 up to the 06 to 09 model The Mk 1 is crude, underpowered, low geared and eats it's own T box. It's a Direct Injection lump of under 80bhp (made by Isuzu). Great off road The Mk2 has the Mazda direct injection donk - about 108bhp. Not bad but thirsty at speed. Pretty reliable. My personal favourite as I'm simple. There's a 2.8 that is much like Hen's teeth - never seen one. Rumour has it that its the Powerstroke 2.8 The M3 is the peach though. 2.5 Duratorq Common Rail simple yet modern, Fuel economic, nails hard if serviced, 144bhp; 333Nm of torque. It has all the little luxuries but doesn't look like a hair dressers car (too much). There's a 3.0 litre that's very nice - auto option available Excellent barge all round. Cheap, reliable, simple. Good off road - limited slip diff thingy in the back. Too much plastic and chrome - but it all comes off Parts are easy/. Milner's has all the service bits (it's really a Mazda B2500/BT50). Eibach and Bilstein do the bouncy bits or you can go cheap. Mark 4's and 4's have the crappy 2.2 Tdci so loathed by most working folk. Although the 3.2 isn't bad Best look at Grey Import B2500 or BT50's as they are cheaper with less bling

Years back when Hyclone first started selling their product they gave one to TOR to test - so it ended up in my RRC. I didn't want it. Didn't trust it. Didn't believe it would work. Couldn't see how it would work. It did. Annoyingly. For 60k miles it worked. Then it wore a hole in the intake house so I dumped it. Thing is it worked, but it was a small better, not a big old better with a heap of really better. Not sure how it worked - not really interested. Don't really give a stuff if the forum experts deny it could work...

To gain height use Gwynn Lewis spacers

Go OEM spec springs - Yellow/Yellow and white/white on the rear with Red/Yellow and Green/Yellow on the front OEM Delphi Gas Shocks are brilliant SuperPro Bushes all round Replace the bolts on the 'A' arm to chassis mounts at the same time

Was about tosay this! Also OE bushes will compress after 50miles

The guys in Yatton are Overland Engineering - supposed to be okay If you ran down to J23 on th M5 Causeway 4x4 are excellent There's a place in Thornbury thats supposed to be fair

I'd go OE Delphi or OE Boge - both gas options. Cheap as chips and very good Alternatively go spend on the best which is Bilstein Koni are okay but they fail - although nowhere near as much as Terrafirma The twin shock set up as cool as long as your second shock is of a 'softer' nature to your leading shock

I've done part of the trip a few times - not the Norwegian leg though. I have family in Finland so have done the road trip to Helsinki a few times as well as the Stockholm to Helsinki ferry run. To be honest I find Norway a little boring after day three until you get much higher up near the artic circle. I like Sweden, its like Finland but with less petrol head, vodka swilling, nutters. I do like Finland more though...

Fitted to all Gen U Wine Camel busses after the Italian team almost drowned

I'd echo Mo here - my Disco is untweaked apart from head work (which according to one of the engineering genii on here doesn't make any difference to a Tdi) I run almost 31" tyres and a 1.22 box. I don't change down for hills and on a private road she will happily cruise at over the legal limit. She will also tow all up weight without any issue

Can I recommend the U boat Museum at Kiel - worth a look and just off your route

I work for a Swedish company and have been over there on family trips (usually to Finland) It's not cheap but if you shop/pack carefully its not too bad Camping is so easy - anywhere as long as its over 500m from the nearest dwelling Mossies' can be trained to bring down small game - 100% Deet is essential - as is keeping your body heat down and not wearing perfume I would also say there as many Silver Birch as Spruce (not many Pine). The Swedish Off Road Tour is a hoot and worth joining if you can

I do know that a 300Tdi with EDC set up properly runs very well - much better than a standard manual 300Tdi.

I'm tempted to get that as a wrap on my 200 Disco

Cash in lieu of damages

If Bull-bar Cowboy was still around he would point out the aerodynamics of the Defender as also having an effect on speed....

My local engine specialists have a liquid that they can fill the cracks with (in some cases) prior to skimming. It works very well

Heater matrix is in the dash - did you run up the heater on max for about ten minutes?

I would also point out that you cannot trust any 'new' parts. A friend who owns a garage reckons that most of their work comes from fixing faulty parts fitted by other garages/enthusiasts Check the rad - as Simon says the fins are essential, then the fan/viscous coupling, then the water pump ( I replace water pumps as a service item - every three years). Get a pressure test done... All the usual checks You can move the header tank up wards to improve bleeding. Also fit a heating radiator valve in both the thermostat housing and the radiator. These have a bleed screw built in