honitonhobbit

Arjan, It's a 109, with some portals slapped on and a 4.6 V8 to drag it along

A 255/65x16 is 29.07 inches tall (with no weight on it) A 245/75x16 is 30.5 inches tall (with no weight on it) Depending on your wheel type and suspension type you may get fouling at full articulation with the latter I would suggest either a 245/70x16 or swap to a Cooper AT3 (an excellent tyre as good as the BFG any day of the week and a lot cheaper in a better range of tyres) or to a General Grabber (again, much better than the BFG and available in the size you want)

Iain What size tyres do you run?

CT Disco's ran 7.00x16 tyres It's mainly down to wheel offset - the CT Disco's ran standard LR rims with very little offset so the tyre is 'inside' the arch. When they changed to 225/75x16, then 245/70x16 they kept with a standard alloy with little offset. I run 245/75x16's. With standard rims you can run these without a lift and just a small 'Camel Cut'. Howvere I have modular's on, so run a 1" lift on the front (with just a touch of rubbing) and 64mm of lift on the rear, with a 'Camel Cut' - this gives me about 5mm of clearance. I loathe lifts. But I run a 5 door so arch trimming is a pita and I wanted easily replaceable tyres with a bit extra under the diff...

Being relatively poor I don't buy cars with warrantee. What I do though is drop into the local garage that I trust and talk to the manager, mechanics and owner - 130 experience years of fixing all types of cars They specialise in 4x4's, so do a lot of work on modern LR's - they also do a lot of specialist work on VAG. I then mix this with my own experience of working on vehicles and prepping vehicles. I have a special notebook kept over the last 15 years that lists problems encountered with vehicles that may be used for overland builds; and how to reduce the chances of those problems. It's a live document. In the back is a similar list for the various cars we have owned as a family, or that friends have owned... It's not brain surgery, it's just simple observations and fixes. Most decent garages will have a member of staff who does the same

On a D3/D4 point, we share our offices with some chaps who drive their D4's up and down the motorways all day and night. They do massive mileage but never more than 60mph. They rarely go wrong but are rotting faster than a pear on the ground

I'm not sure about the 4wd versions but our family A4 Estate is squeezing on 170k and is generally trouble free. It's not vast so when it goes I'll look at the A6 Estate instead - with the same engine and box. Ours is a 170 2.0litre diesel with the later 6 speed getrag box; so apart from the weird skew drive to the oil pump, it's nails hard; as is the box. The 4x4 version uses Torsion Diffs (that's on a B7 version) so pretty reliable. We get 62mpg average across the board, so a heavier 4x4 version would still be pretty good. Just avoid the 18" rims

No one owned up yet then Will

I've fitted Big Horn 764's to my last three vehicles. Love them. Strong, low wear characteristics, good on road wet or dry, good in snow; superb off road, well priced. Also very quite for an MT

Freelander 2

What I phone have you got?

Mike, actually there are 40mm, 25mm, 21mm, 19mm and 16mm pins

What he said I did the brake lights and reversing lights but simply couldn't be arsed to do the indicators Worth noting that changing to LED's on a D1 does not comply with C&U regs; therefore in the case of an incident caused by you/your vehicle; you will be at fault in the eyes of the law

What Bowie said, get it checked on a diagnostic first - remapping a malfunctioning engine is like fitting a boost pin; pointless An 'X' reg TD5 is old; it's been owned by a fair few folk, who have progressively spent less and less on maintenance until you bought it. so get it back to spec. Also, it's worth noting that the TD5 auto in standard form is a bit of a slug. I'd suggest a de cat as well as what you have done. Also check the fuel pump and fuel regulator are functioning properly Then when it's functioning A Ok, take it to IRB and get it tweaked

That's how on-line marketing works (-; I like the ide of using them on the rear as a work light - but once again that whole bright light/shadow thing comes into play. I got rid of my rear high level work lights as the spare created a huge pool of shadow. So I fitted them into the rear bumper, because it made sense. Except it doesn't work - even more shadows... SO now I just use brighter bulbs in the reversing lights and cheap magnetic torches... Like most 'great ideas' pushed by media, it's usually a crock of poo. Interestingly, the Roof light idea comes from the good old days of Camel. When they were building the first or what we think of as 'proper' Camel vehicles, the press guys wanted a more aggressive look to the vehicle. So spotlights were added to the roof to change the asthetics. Over the years the bonnets were painted matt black to try to avoid the glare issue. Speak to any Camel competitor and they will tell you that they only used the roof lights when stationary or when the press wanted 'special' pictures. The best way to work out what you need to fit to a vehicle, is to work out what you want, right it down, then look to justify it

Decent headlights work well - sort of 'in the right place'

Also worth asking yourself why you are fitting it. Unless you drive a forward control vehicle, roof lights do not comply to C&U regs so are illegal to use on road. Roof lights are a relatively pointless waste of time unless you are involved in high level off road competition at night (not rallying) or enjoy looking at your bonnet. Using big bright lights at night is generally frowned on world wide; and in some places can get you into serious trouble - any rural community in the UK for example. Better to fit a light bar on your bumper...

I'd be tempted to do a 'Nige'; this is where you fit the bodywork around bigger tyres using little or no lift but some reasonable fabrication skills

there's a load of sizes - metric. Japerial. US. Imperial and Odd 50mm is just more common

I would say that's fair I would email around a few companies. List what you want. Include pictures of the vehicle - lots of pictures Ask for references Devon are very good - say what you will about Uncle Buck but he has very high standards and even in his retirement he makes sure his people stick to that Causeway are a specialist garage - not just for 4x4 stuff. They do all sorts of things. They are just down the road from me so I could (and would) be happy to keep an eye on the works for you... IRB are another company I would recommend Gumtree 4x4 (owned by John Bowden) - also very good

Harsh... but fair On a 200tdi you can remove the main fan - but not in 50+ temps

I would also check that the clutch damper hasn't failed. It's a pointless disc shaped thing by the slave cylinder

I did ask my local parts supplier to get in a set of blue bag SS pistons. They did so. We opened the little bag in open mouth excitement. Then taped the bag up and sent it back Firstly, there's stainless, then there's stainless - this was rusty stainless Secondly, we felt that as they were going into a round hole - then they ought to be round as well, not oval I keep badgering Red to produce some - maybe one day

I'd recommend Causeway 4x4 highly I'd avoid Foley - I won't go into detail why as this is a public Forum

Will You drive a 200tdi defender with no sound proofing Just go into Halfords and grab a non CD head unit that has a USB input for the Ipod/Iphone