honitonhobbit

Was a bit worried at the start of that last paragraph...

I had a brisk discussion with one manufacturer about his powder coating and about the poor mounting design of the unit - four bolts instead of six. Good welding, nicely fabbed but it was impossible to stop if from moving when winching... As for the powder coat, it was appalling

I read it as a viscous fan.. Iain dates back many years to the time of the centrifugal fan though...

What he said...

Talk to Arjan Haanstra on here

Hell, I use ten spline diffs!

Only got one...

I would disagree. If you drive any Land Rover product with mechanical sympathy, recommended tyres and within the recommended load, you have to really badly maintain it to get it to fail, yet it will do the job it was designed to do for 10's of 10'000's of miles. The biggest killer of Land Rover's is the driver, either because he/she has no mechanical sympathy or because he/she modifies the vehicle without thought...

107 Def 200 111 Disco 200 111 300 Tdi 134 300 Tdi Auto

My 100" had a 1.2 T Box. It was fine except when towing over 2 tonne, then you really noticed the gap between 3 and 4th gear. My 110 never had that issue with its 1.44 T Box, nor does my 200 Disco. Although oddly enough there's not a lot in tyres size difference

YRM do that A post base and you can sleeve that sill with box

Good suggestion Mike I've driven a fair few series motors over the years. Most have had engine conversions - from a Chevy 350 to a 1.6 VW diesel turbo. I know form experience that a standard, second hand carb'd V8 can destroy the drive train on an 88 unless driven carefully. It's got sod all to do with the bhp - its the torque, and a 2.5 M51 in the 96kw/130bhp format puts out 184ft/lb at 2,200 rpm; not excessive but more than enough to simply destroy your drive train The first lesson of a reliable 4x4 is make sure it has enough strength in the drive train to get you out of a difficult situation

I have so much in the stores...

But solar panels look so good and I have one in the stores... - okay, point made JU; no solar panel How much for your three way fridge by the way? PM me if you feel the need for privacy

I was quite taken by yours at DaveFest I think a 20litre water tank is workable - mainly because I have one I was going to fix a Jerry Can holder to the drawbar and the spare wheel mount, so I can almost ballast the drawbar I was also going to find some nice 1970's Chavesque Alloys with the same PCD - maybe SlotMags - to add some road going bling A 12 volt PC cooling fan will be fitted to vent air to the outside so the convection fridge doesn't have to work to hard

I was going to use Lloyds registered 12mm marine ply - with three layers of primer and three layers of gloss. It's cheap, easy to cut, proven and I can spare the weight The trailer is rated to 750kgs. I weighed some stuff last night and I can't get over 200kgs, even with my toe on the scales. So if I run 150-175 on the trailer, I'm well under the sort of weight that reduces capability in the vehicle. I will make up an Ali skid plate underneath though and look to strengthen the suspension units. I'm looking at better quality bearings as well - but off the shelf Mike's suggestion of the battery on board is a good idea. I have a spare photovoltaic panel that will trickle charge, and can run a feed from the vehicle via the unused fog light wire. I was thinking of fitting a telescopic pole on one corner and mounting an LED flood light. I've also got a tube 'basket' in the stores that would fit across the top for exterior storage

I was up on Exmoor at the weekend. For once it wasn't just me and the kids, SWMBOWF's shifts had coincided with us all being together. Now my wife doesn't pack light - never has, never will. We also took both dogs with us. The Disco is simply not big enough for all of us, the kit and too 20kg pooches. Even with a roof-box. Operation 'take the wife's car as well' was instigated. Not ideal So over the weekend, whilst putting the world to rights with my wife's cousin, I decided to buy a small trailer and modify it to add the bulky heavy items. I'm aware that in all reality chucking a trailer on the back of a vehicle compromises it's off road capability as well as it's on road capability. So I wanted small and light. I couldn't be a***d to build one form scratch (nor could I be bothered with IVA). I don't need to match tyres and wheels or vehicle widths. No point. Reasonable ground clearance narrow tyres Long draw bar Bradley hitch (with no brakes coupled up) 750kg max Short Wide Low CoG Lockable Waterproof Cheap I found an ex fumigation trailer on The Bay, not far from home. No one bid so I put in a cheeky offer and it was accepted. It's 110cms wide, 90 cms long (without the draw bar) and 53cms high. A lockable box on 13" rims, with a nice galv frame and steadies. The draw bar is too short so will have 1.0m welded in. All the timber will be replaced with marine ply and then sealed on every joint... This will take the fridge, food boxes, cooker, water, incidentals and booze Sorted Suggestions/comments appreciated

I've a bit of a cold at the moment old chap

why are you looking to fit something like this to a series? Seems like a V8 into a 2CV sort of project. You'll replace the entire drive train, have to fit anti tramp bars on the rear axle, so lose articulation. It will handle like a back of spanners, so you'll need to run wider axles, longer wheel base etc etc Maybe I'm missing something here

Good point - Les Hiddins drove a 3.9 Diesel Donk 110 Also worth noting that LR SA fitted the M52 Beemer Donk in 2.8 and 3.2 litre form

I've had 7 200Tdi's now - 3 'company cars' (including a re-engine Ag-Rover) and 4 personal motors. I love them, I've also had Td5's, V8's, 300Tdi's, 2.4Tdci's, 2.0ltr Mpi's, 1.6 IL4's, 2.0 IL4's, 2.25 pet and oil burners, 2.6 IL6's. Oh and a TD or 2. They all have their good and bad points. For me the 200 will always be the best all rounder. Simplicity, reliability, forgiveness, excellent fuel efficiency (although not as good as either of my VAG motors).

I have a lower dash section (where the difflock light goes) that you can have. Also some tail lights. Can you make a nice picture of that spare wheel carrier please

Just re-badge the Loadbetter and Safari from the Tata range

The IM suspension package for the Dmax is Bilstein/Eibach/SuperPro and very, very good I prefer the older Dmax with the 3.0 Turbo The Anorak has the 'not so reliable' VW 2.0litre oil burner. The one that goes wrong on a regular basis...

Rodeo - Dmax. Superb bit of kit Ranger -but not the 2.2 - Wildcat