sgnas

Yes, shin height Should be 14-16.5 inches. 4x4s (off road vehicles) exempt due to ground clearance issues. A dixon Bate towbar on a 90/110 comes in at the top of this range. The standard LR towbar does not conform. I thought there was a different height for commercial trailers (with ring hitches) which Landrovers do conform to, but I cannot find it.

Put the others back in. Spanner/socket on one you can remove and use it as a lever to stop the pulley rotating while you have a go on the stubborn one.

My gearbox oil after 40+k miles (on a 170+k box) was as clean as new!

I "try" to buy at least one of the service items around the time of service so I have a dated receipt. Then use the rest of the A4 sheet to write down what was done/used, then put it in the folder with the rest of the history. 1200 miles might see a small distance, but what were the conditions. If it's all off road then your brakes and bearings will need looking at. If you look at a garage service sheet it is mostly simple stuff. Tick here to check LH light, RH light, damaged tyres, grease bonnet lock, hinges etc. all the simple stuff should take no more than an hour. As for oils then check for level and cleanliness, if there ok then no need to change. Air filter - visual check, replace if necessary.

If it is a 300tdi, make sure you get an Airtex pump. However easy it is to replace you really do not want to do it twice

The only potential problem is with a lower hot viscocity the engine may not build up enough oil pressure when hot. I had a temporary problem on my TD when one of the oil cooler pipes was kinked/restricted. When the engine was worked hard and got hot the oil pressure light flickered. Once the pipe was replaced, and the oil was cooler, the light remained off.

Ahem..... Given as an example of something you should not do. Time for someone to re-aquaint themselves with reading properly methinks

For the 'van I had that towed poorly I had to fit a drop plate to put the towball lower to get it steady. The dixon bate was already as low as it goes. Hitch height is important and a lot more variable than you would think!

Caravans and boat trailers are very different to tow. Boat trailers (at least the ones I have towed) are much more stable. As a proportion of the overall length they have the axle(s) further back and this reduces the tendency to wag. I had a MASSIVE Hobby caravan for a few years. That was fine and dandy up to 50mph, but got caught horribly by the suck of passing HGVs. If you drove faster to avoid the overtakes it became obvious that any mishap would be unrecoverable. It was not a relaxing drive, you had to be constantly alert. After that I had a tiny (14ft) van. You could do anything with that, loading did not seem to matter. After that I had a 20+ft single axle. On that loading was everything. Unloaded it was a cow, nowhere near enough noseweight. It had a lot of weight behind the axle! Now I've got a modern 6 berth 20+ft single axle, nearly a relaxing tow. I have found that you always have to be pulling or braking the caravan. You cannot "roll" round a corner without drive or down hill. So you may have to slow down more for a corner than you want so you can pull the caravan through it. Coasting downhill has a good chance of the caravan wagging the car.

Prices are wild at the moment! Down the road from me there was a J plate 90. I nearly bought it just to lay up until I had a use for it. Guy got £2750 for it, it's now on a forecourt for £3995!! for a 20 year old truck. I think in the classifieds on here there is a 1998 110 for £11500. It looks absolutely mint, but thats £3000 more than I payed for mine 5 years ago.

Well I didn't want to ment to mention it earlier but..... If you are overtaking enough people, that a portion significant enough to annoy you, flash you. Then you are probably driving like and ar$3

Pulls like a steam train................................Takes 10 miles to get to 60mph Your right on the CYA situation, but the advisories are a bit silly. 4 of the advisories are for, paraphrasing, "rusty springs" one each corner. They're 20+ years old, 3/4" thick, with no obvious sagging. I think they're doing fine! Another is for corrosion on a brake line. Same as last year. It's copper and was only fitted 3 years ago!

I took the 90 to work so I could put it in for the MOT today, it passed. As an aside, is everyone else getting a pass with a longggggg list of advisories (for very minor stuff) or is it just me? I have to put 4 cars through MOT each year and it happens on all of them. Anyway, at lunch I went out and got some fuel to do the return home. When I got back to work and parked up I had the thought "That wasn't the diesel hose I filled up from!" Bugger. Luckily I work for a manufacturing company so quickly found 2 25litre drums to decant the mixed fuel into. Drew around 45litres off, then drove to a different garage to fill up again. Now, I originally put 45litres into the 53litre tank. Meaning I had 80% or more petrol in the tank. I drove 4 miles and the engine didn't miss a beat or smoke. I know the fuel filter is quite large so holds a reasonable amount. I think also, that excess fuel from the pump returns to the filter not the tank. Even so, 4 miles should have used 800ml of fuel. At least double the volume of the filter. At the very least it must have been running on a 50:50 mix and still going fine! Now I have 45l of mixed fuel to dilute out between the mower/chainsaw/strimmer/quad/2 landrovers and if I'm feeling brave my daily runner, a Fiat Panda.

CO2 has external thread on bottle. Ar, ArMix have internal thread on bottle. Fuel gasses have reverse thread.

That is the reason trucks and tractors have so many gears. They produce a lot of power/torque but in a small rev range. My wife's 7.5t DAF Horsebox has a green band on the rev counter of about 1000rpm. This is a NA engine and below the band there is NO power at all, above it will still pull but with power obviously falling. On the plus side, empty (cos I wouldn't do it with a horse in) it will do 70mph. On a round trip to Devon (250 miles) it returns nearly the same mpg as our 300tdi. This is significantly better than the previous Ford Cargo which I doubt did 20mpg. Scouting out gearbox and diff ratios would be a good start to the project to work out if you can get something driveable,

Allow 1.5m length and 1m height. If you are tight on length, very little can be gained by going diagonal as the footwells stick out a long way. This makes it very awkward to carry!

For those of you who buy your spares from the LR Dealer (suprisingly competetive on some items), there is a general price increase from April 1st of 5%. Some items will be excluded, but the parts department are not sure what yet! This could affect "genuine" items from other stockists too.

Hmm. Cannot find the original...so here is the abreviated version. It was a good quality bungee, lots of stretch and lots of stored energy. It's not an uncommon injury. You tend to pull directly towards yourself, often at chest/head height. Stupidly, I was using it to lift/support something. The "other" end slipped off it's attachment (roofrack!). These things move at something like 90mph when let loose. I managed to turn my head a fraction, but the metal twirly bit wrapped around the cord smacked me in the side of the eye, followed through and broke my nose. Damn near put me on the floor. Walk back to the house holding face together (well that's what it felt like at the time) in dark and unable to see much, kick front door (cannot knock with hand) tell wife "best call me an ambulance". Assesed by crew, asked if I was "athletic" as my heatbeat was so controlled considering. Trip to (same) local and nice hospital, cleaned up glued together and told how lucky I had been. The hooky bit tore my lower lid just below the eyelashes. In the lashes would have been a visit to the plastic surgeon, a touch higher and a seriously damaged eye. Took six months for eyesight to get back near normal as the impact was so hard it changed the shape of my eye. I still use them, in fact I still use the same one! Aside from been more careful with bungees I am now a lot more thoughtful about jobs where something could get in your eye. I will not pick up grinder/strimmer/chainsaw etc without finding eye protection first.

I had one very nearly in this order. 1. Hold wood at awkward angle and saw with brand new very sharp saw. Saw slips and slices index finger! 2. Swear/curse/jump around 3. shove bleeding hand in opposite armpit 4. finish job one handed 5. being new to the area, I don't know where the hospital is. So decide to wait for wife and (local) friend to come home before getting it professionally looked at. 6. Conclude washing the cut would be a good idea. 7. Wash cut under very cold running tap. 8. Sit down (on kitchen floor) before I fall down as the cold water and renewed blood has made me feel a bit faint. 9. About 4 hours after original injury wife comes home, so I now know where hospital is. 10. Visit very friendly and quiet local hospital 11. The cut is big and deep, but at an angle such that it is only just under the skin, so the edges are too thin for stitches. 12. sent away with steristrips holding it together 13. 5 days later with no healing (with work colleague - ex community nurse) decide it will not heal as it is so has to be left open so it can heal from the bottom out. 14. 7 years later still have an inch long zigzag scar on finger! Nearly losing an eye to a bungee cord is somewhere on the forum already! Dangerous bloody things. I still use them, just a bit more thoughtfully.

1. Drench the lock with thin oil (wd40 or similar). Then lots of key jiggling and door thumping. 2. Check if one of the windows has been accidentally fitted with the fixing bead on the outside. If one has, you can remove the window and work through the hole. 3. If the body side of the hinges uses captive nuts/plates remove the bolts and hinge the door from the wrong side and work through the gap. I've seen this done on a front door of a vehicle that could not be seen to be damaged. Anything else I can think of involves some permanent mechanical damage.

Must be amateurs then, that's at least 8 minutes too long for an old Defender. If the local police have seen the CCTV and do not recognise the culprits (even from poor, non evidential, quality video) then they are probably from out of the area.

You want to go drifting?

Seat base should remove same as the outers. Just lift on the leading edge. However, could be stiffer as it is less likely to be removed. Then it is bolted down at 4 corners. If the nuts are not captive then either get someone underneath to hold with a spanner or remove the panel in the seatbox (4-6 screws) and spanner it yourself.

When we rebuilt a friends 110 and we put the engine back in we had the choice of 2 white wires to connect to the stop solenoid. Both were live when ignition on, so we just picked one. We spent about 4 hours trying to start it (bleeding injectors etc) until we found out the wire we chose went to 0v on cranking Run a jump wire from the battery to stop solenoid and try again.

You might want to check the existing ones for wear and damage, if you have not done so. The splines on the rear of my 110 gave out with no warning ( and no maintenance ) My 90 is 22 years old and I do not doubt it is on the original shafts, but all the seals leak and the splines are well lubricated.