sgnas

A mate put his very shiny 90 in to hve the same panel replaced. The bodyshop did the same thing. Glue and rivets.

I guess that would depend on whether you want a 110 overhang or a 90 overhang at the back.

My wife had a Subaru for 7 years ~120000miles. Bought new. Only thing it ever needed other than routine servicing was a battery.

at £35 for the wheel, £80 for the commercial tyre to fit it, £30 for the spacer it is an expensive way to lower the vehicle. Would something like a 205 45 r16 on a standard rim lower it enough for you?

Probably because 15 inch wheels are popular on old american 4wds hence 33 inch, 35 inch etc

It's more fun if you put a timer in the circuit, so it runs for a minute then stops. Start again, runs for a minute....... A lot more difficult to fault find if you are trying to steal it.

Hatty sounds fine but surely if she is an Essex girl it should be Sharon or Tracey

Water in the diesel frozen in the filter, restricting flow.

Front and rear axles describe a substantially different arc around corners.

If it is the single nut you are removing then be careful. They can be stiff and use of a breaker bar will snap them off with little effort. Then you need to replace the whole bracket. Not difficult or expensive just a pain as the car is unusable without it 'till you get a new one. I fitted a replacement bush once for an MOT the replacement had more play in it than the failed item! At £10 a corner I now treat the shocks as disposable items.

can be had cheaper and easy to make look better

October 2002 to August 2003 I lived in Durrington. In that time I drove that road, and practically every other lane around the plain. Distinctly remember it as they were building new barns at the Eastern end. But how do you prove it?

LHD car so heater box on RH same as 300tdi air intake. So effectively as tight a fit as a 200tdi fitment on a RHD car.

This would have made a nice snack for it. Found in my 90, biggest wasp I've ever seen!

apart from the sound of the digits turning over on the petrol station pump

fore!

It's not that secret, and I bet a few forum members have the necessary equipment already. Might as well enlighten everyone.

I have a twin axle (but below 750kg) trailer that is ~£1000 new. Having owned a few caravans over the years I have accumulated quite a few bits of security equipment. Even when it is in a locked garage out of sight it has 2 wheel clamps (fitted on same side so you cannot rig it to tow on the "other" axle) and a decent hitch lock. When it is on the car it is chained and locked on. If you do not use it frequently then time applying and removing the security is minimal overall

It is a 20 year old truck. It's a lot of money for a 20 year old truck. It looks great in the pictures and it seems to have had a fair bit of work into it. If it really has had that amount of work done , then it has been a labour of love. 'Cos at that price he isn't making any money on it. A friend rebuilt his 1990 110csw a few years back. Galv chassis, 300tdi conversion, ashcroft gearbox exchange, new doors all round, new bulkhead, full paint, alloys etc. Total cost ~£9000

Rather than shut the flow entirely could you just divert/bypass the heater matrix?

I don't know if you just get unlucky or the trailer has unusually high resistance and heats up the contacts. Once you know why and how, it's an easy fix in the future. Cut the wires off the switch and join them by twisting. Bingo, lights on. Instant (get you home) fix. I carry a spare 'cos I don't trust it anymore!

I think you've melted the contacts in the light switch itself. They get hot and sink into their plastic housing!

Hey, they're putting a new MOT on it so tht will be sorted prior to sale

Problem solved... New Keeper Forename Alan Surname Pikey Address The green caravan in that nice field you would never get planning permission on now filled with utter £$%^.

Why not just weld a bar across/around/between the spiders? Then you would not have alignment/distortion to deal with. Although, the "orb of traction" does look good