sgnas

I have a theory: It's a white roof thing I've always climbed over the 90 with no thought to scratches or dents. When I got the 110, I proceeded the same although a little more carefully (It has a sunroof). My mate has a very shiny 90, only a few months newer than my 110. It has a colour coded roof. He would never ever walk on that. Ohhhh. I have another theory: It's a shiny thing

Having done this, a long time ago, I think I drilled through the side of the nuts to nearly full size of the bolt thread then twisted them off with a socket. I don't think there is enough space for a nut splitter to get in.

Yep, momentum of the fan makes it run on. That then works (briefly) as a generator/dynamo and provides enough power to keep the stop solenoid open.

If the stop solenid is mechanically sticky pulling the electric supply will not make it stop any quicker! However, it is a useful test to see if you have a mechanical or electrical problem. Start engine, pull electric supply off. If it stops dead, you have an electrical problem. If it over runs, you have a mechanical problem. If it is electrical problem, then consider anything with a permanent live to be "backfeeding" the circuit. It takes 12v to open the solenoid but (from experience) only 6v to keep it open. Some TD5s will not stop the engine if you hold the brakes on as the brake light circuit somehow backfeeds to the stop solenoid! It could be your radio or any accesory plugged into the ciggy lighter. If it is mechanical then the solenoid needs removing. I'm sure it is in the tech archive.

I've just finished (well is a Landrover ever finished?) putting a '96 bulkhead on and '89 90. Nothing needing cutting off or welding on. Had to install a couple of nutserts (holes were present) for the fuel filter but thats all. Sounds easy doesn't it! But for various reasons (wife,kids,holiday,injury,parts,only working in 1 1/2 hr sections) it has taken 2 1/2 months in a comfortable workshop. It's pretty much a nut and bolt job but ever so time consuming. I also had a few other little jobs on the way. New brake line, new clutch MC, new rad, new BH outriggers. I guess they added 6-8hrs to the total. Keep track of all the screws/nuts/bolts etc you take off and label every electrical connector you pull apart it will save you time in the end.

Well, the two arms are off. Only standard spanners and my legs used to push them! Easier than I expected. So easy that I took both off although only one bush was required for the MOT. The ball joint seems to cycle freely so I've left that on. Tomorrow they're off to a garage to be pushed out and new ones put in, and new bolts/nuts too.

Now at work (after a morning of not getting an MOT, but suprised at why!) I've managed to borrow two 1.1/8" spanners. So, tonight I shall be mostly swearing and cursing at 20yr old nuts and bolts.

What spanner sizes do I need to get the a frame off. Both chassis an axle end. 27mm spanner is too small but the 30mm socket seems too big. Thanks in advance

Welcome to the club. I'm sure a few other members will be along shortly!

The mounting brackets on a TD5 atre absent. In replacement you get a full width piece of angle (rail). This has some adjustment on the crossmember and supposedly makes it easire for bodywork alignment. The rail sits behind the tub unlike the tabs on older chassis. Look at Marshlands site. I think they were a OEM supplier to LR and when they stopped prodcuing for LR they could produce for themselves!

Either seal will fit any vehicle. The old part is rubber and fits to the bulkhead (glue) The new part is foam and fits to the vent (self adhesive backing) Personal preference as to which you use. I think the old look better on the vehicle as it fills the exterior gap between bulkhead and vent, but I just built up a new bulk head for my '89 90 and used the new seals 'cos I had them laying about already!

Depends on whether you are mechanically minded or electrically minded. The 300Tdi loom has different connectors. If you can work the loom out by following it back and diagrams then cutting and shutting the two looms together is an option. For me, taking the dash out and putting the 200tdi loom in would be much quicker. I've just put a 300tdi bulkhead on a TD. I pulled the loom straight out. But then again I was going for a "bare" bulkhead respray anyway. I did (very briefly) think about transplanting the "blade" style fusebox over! If the "new" bulkhead has a steering column on it check your wheel fits as the spline count could be different.

Pretty pictures are nice but one sentence sums it all up. "Compared to the AC, the K&N “plugged up” nearly 3 times faster, passed 18 times more dirt and captured 37% less dirt."

At work the factory floor was done by "proffesionals". The upshot is paint is laid down and allowed to self level. The final coat is a laquer and the grit (not dissimilar to shot blast media) is added then. The grit then sits in this thin layer and doesn't sink leaving you with a glossy surface. Personally I liked the smooth surface. Easy to clean and makes sure people clean up their spills!

I'm with Britannia Rescue (via CSMA, so a bit discounted), renewal is due but I expect it to be 150-160 for almost identical cover to Jeremy. Only named vehicle covered in Europe, but you can change it at will. I think I've called them out 4 times in 19 years! Once to an accident, once I decided I could self recover before they could get to me, and twice with breakdowns I could not fix. They can be a bit slow getting out and as they are smaller much more likely to send out a local agent which means you are less likely to be fixed at the side of the road. They don't have an age restriction on vehicles which RAC and AA did the last time I looked elswhere.

Has the 300tdi got anti roll bars fitted? My '89 90 is on the original springs and it has less (perceived) roll than my '98 110. If you really want to worry yourself take a rear wheelarch spat off and watch the tyre/wheelarch distance change in the mirrors as you go round corners!

I didn't have the presence of mind to take photos at the time. I expected to look like one of those old women beat up in a robbery but I don't bruise easily. About 4-5 days in the bruise was quite yellow but that's as bad as it got lookswise. Sat/Sun I drove to Devon and back! Nearly ten days in defo broken nose, still hurts now everything else has settled down! Blurry vision in one eye, apparently nothing lasting wrong with it, could take a month (or more) to settle down. Still cannot tell quite how big/close the cut was as the glue has not all fallen off yet. Being a brave little soldier, I only missed one day at work. 5 mins of tidying up and I found 3 small ratchet straps, each easily capable of supporting the bulkhead. The bungee took me a lot longer to find. Looked all over the floor/under/in boxes. Even resorted to looking in the rafters. Just as I was giving up I spotted it tangled in the injector fuel lines. Replaced the offending outrigger tonight (1st day/hour back on the Landrover) and a smack in the face has improved my welding 100%. Even the positional overhead looks great. Hmmm, perhaps I should shut the dodgy eye and take another look.

The recovery guys are not careful when they collect things like this. So I think quite a lot of the damage could have been done then! The morons who stripped it obviously didn't know that the rack could bring in as much 2nd hand sa the other stuff put together,

As we have not had a full on (injury involved) story from HFH of late I'll present mt little offering. At the moment I am changing the bulkhead on my 90. I have most of the bits required and am really close to being able to start re-assembly. The passenger side outrigger was replaced before I decided the bulkhead itself needed replacing too. I still have the drivers side to do. I decided that I needed to put the old, stripped, bulkhead back on to get some datum points. Then cut out the rot and replace using the datums to make sure it was in the right place. The clever bit was that as I'm working single handed I did not want to take the bulkhead on and off. So I left it connected on the passenger side and pivoted it out of the way on the passenger outrigger bolt. The roof, and roofrack, are still on the car. The plan was to tie it up to this and then I could work on the outrigger. I looked for some rope but could not find any. All too conveniently there was still a bungee on the front of the roofrack. So I lifted the bulkhead and pulled the bungee down to meet it. Now this isn't a cheap bungee and has some considerable stretch in it so I needed to pull it really taught. As I did so the, unchecked, secure end undid itself. I'm not sure if I noticed the sudden release of tension and turned away but the upshot is the bungee and hook hit me hard on the left of my face. Some how I managed to lower, not drop, the bulkhead then went down to a squat with hands to face. There was quite a bit of blood which I was sure was mostly from my nose. However I was also sure the hook had done some damage on the way and was also bleeding somewhere around my eye. Managed to pull myself up and stagger blindly the 50m or so back to the house and kick on the front door to get my wife. Aside from some little panicky moment she did well but I told her to call an ambulance as we could always cancel it if necessary. While she was doing this I was getting pretty certain I would be taking a ride in the ambulance and he nearest big hospital is 20+mins away. Small aside moment. Part of the flight or fright response shuts down all unecessary systems. Panic over these systems kick back in. One of the responses is you throw up or need to go to the toilet. Well, I needed a c"£p. I hadn't been on the loo 30 seconds before the ambulance arrived. So I'm on the loo and 2 female ambulance staff are arriving! Luckily managed to squeeze it out, restarting nosebleed in process, before they got to me. After some clean up the ambulance staff decided I was going to hospital, but which one? Local minor injuries unit is open 'till 9.30 Winchester, if the local cannot handle? or straight to Southampton or Salisbury as it is a facial injury? Fortunately, from the description, the local decided they could handle it. The results Black eye Red eyeball A few cuts in the eyelid possible broken nose. All sounds worse than it currently looks and I think I got off lightly. Even if the cuts had extended to where the eylahes grow it would have been a trip to the plastic surgeon! and the damage could easily been worse. Moral of the story. Spend longer looking for the right tool if you know you have it. If you already think it is not an entirely safe option then don't do it. Seeing the damage a "no weight" bungee with 30kg of force in it can do I don't think I'll be buying a KERR anytime soon.

If you have a TD5 you need nanocom or a trip to the dealers to reset the ECU with the new fluid code. On the Puma model you need Landrover special tool LRS4587 to relieve the pressure while filling to prevent airlocks in the system.

I dunno. Have a look round the ohter manufacturer forums and I think you'll find there are plenty of vehicles that suffer water in the footwells. At work we've had Peugeots, Volvos and Vauxhalls that do it. On the Peugeot we had a 405 and the sills were half full of water, when you braked you could hear it sloshing about!

Can't vouch for the Puma. But up to TD5 all the bulkheads have the external ribbing in the footwell. Anything else and it has been repaired. Not a bad thing as long as it has been done well.

SNAP(ish) Bought a Vauxhall Frontera Soft Top. Greenlaning and the Vauxhall Off Road Club dented and scratched it. It was still a relatively new and smart looking car. I had some spare cash so bought a 90. 9 years later I still have the (now 20yr old) 90 and a 110 for the family. The 90 is now totally impractical for us but is a family friend so we cannot pass it on!

As these are new vehicles I suspect they have anti roll bars on the suspension. The extra weight of the 110 will twist these more before an opposite corner lifts. (maybe )

I knew my engineering degree would come in useful eventually. 18 years, and it is the first time I've had to produce the certificate