ChrisW70

Pick up a cheap picnic rug with a waterproof backing on one side, ideal for lying on under the motor and a little bit of insulation from cold ground. Tools wise I guess a half inch socket set, 1/4" socket set, hammer, screwdrivers, hub nut box spanner and prop nut tool should be enough to cope with most emergencies. Spares I usually keep are an axle set of wheel bearings, couple of UJs and water and alternator belts. Waterproof over trousers and coat. Blanket or sleeping bag. If we're out for the day we usually take a flask full of boiled water to use to boil up again on the gas ring then top the flask up with fresh water that can be boiled while we're drinking tea/soup etc. Phone / CB, if it's really that bad then let someone know what/where you are doing/going and what time you should be back just in case. Best thing to take though would be a healthy dose of common sense I guess!

Don't count your chickens just yet... this is just the inspectors report from the inquiry - Wilts CC have now gone away to consider the report and decide their actions... I put up a link to the council's website on the GLASS TRO page yesterday - http://www.wiltshire.gov.uk/stonehengeinquiry.htm go to the updates for a full copy of the report.

I'm using the paid version of MM Tracker, finding it really good, you can copy map extracts to your SD card and use them, load tracks and routes (transferred as gpx files) and the best part I really like is it rotates the map to follow your direction of travel... no more U turns?!!

There's no relays, feed comes off the battery, through a fusible link hidden in a 'cloth sleeve' along the wing to the switch on the column stalk and back out to the lights. Usual culprits are either the fusible link or the switch itself. Fusible link can corrode over time (look for green coating on the solder inside the cloth sleeve) or the switch can warm due to the current flowing (think this can be quite susceptible if you run on main beam for prolonged periods). A good modification to do is run fused supplies from local relays under the bonnet directly to the headlamps and use the existing wiring to switch the relays. This also reduces the volt drop on the circuit a little so you get a little bit more light output.

You'll want the 300 gearbox crossmember too

Get it Matt, I can have your old bumper then!!

... (aftermarket stereo so the radio remote buttons were redundant!)

Mine's powered via an RAC jump start solenoid under the bonnet with a small switch mounted to a blank in place of one of the radio buttons on the instrument pod, another two way switch in a blank next to it to select internal or external control. The internal position livens up the radio volume buttons for winch in and out.

I've seen one mounted on a 3"x3" piece of chequer plate which was then fitted to a top corner of the grille. Only other place I can think of is the side of one of the front seat bases if security is an issue but then you're into running cables and volt drops....

The access to the rear body lights on a disco 1

or google 'land rover day tent'

I've got a draper syringe, think its got half a litre capacity, similar to this one http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/Oil-Syringe-with-200mm-Suction-Tube-Sealey-AK46

You don't mention it but do you grease them immediately after a run? The existing grease will be warm and get pushed out of the way by the new grease easier.

Hi Ryck, The Freelander lamp holders are part number RXBP100190 plus RSTC4637 for the 3 terminal loom with the connector (you need two of each). There's a complete kit here - http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/200612353760 The one's in the ebay link only look to be side light only so won't do what you want. I would imagine the lights would be c/w standard filament lamps (yellow indicator and red side light) - if you get the LED lamps I'm pretty sure you can get them in white but light up in the correct colour so you don't end up with the fried egg look in the clear lenses!

Thanks, I contacted All Makes this morning and they confirmed the same, no gas so they don't 'self expand'. From what I remember the top mount is larger than standard with it's own supplied bush and sleeve, I don't think, without a major internet trawl, it would be easy to turn up a replacement bush. Will have to keep an eye on that then - why is it you can never 'fit and forget' something on these motors!

Put a pair of these on the back axle at the weekend, so far they feel like they're soaking the lumps and bumps up a bit better than the procomps they replaced... one thing that surprised me though was they were static on whatever length they were pushed or pulled to. My previous experiences with shocks are that they always extend to full length by themselves. Can anyone else confirm they found the same with theirs or have I got a duff pair..? Did seem odd that the boxes seemed to match the full length but they were fully compressed when taking out the box...

I had dynabeads in 265/75/16 BFG KM2 MTs from new, had them took out and balanced the old fashioned way after a couple of months. Normal roads up to 50mph were fine but motorway speeds they were terrible. One thing when they came out was the weights that went on were more than a bags worth of beads so I don't know if more beads would have solved it.

I doubt you'll get a part number as its an after-market item not genuine, best bet is to try Google/eBay

Was reading this site earlier from a link on the 4.6 thread in this section... http://www.mez.co.uk/page12.html

Bolt-on Bits spring to mind for the led lamps, ebay will throw some more up no doubt, you'll need to get the bulb holders and connector plug for the brake and side combined, the Freelander ones fit the bumper lights

You can pick up the feeds off the trailer wiring or from the rear body lights either side. Stock set up is side and indicator lights in the bumper but you can get side and brake bulb holders and wire the lights up with both signals. LED lamps are a good idea as the 21W element of the brake light causes the red lens to develop a heat bubble in the centre... like mine! Might need to replace the indicator relay as well as the additional load might trigger the trailer telltail on the dash.

When you say no coolant loss is that an absolute definite or is there a chance that there is a small loss over a long period? I did have a head fail between the water jacket and the exhaust a long time ago which gave very similar symptoms to your description, it could be that the white smoke is decreasing after warm up as the metal expands and closes the hole.

With a 2" lift as mine has be prepared to typically change the doughnut every six months if you stay with it, when my rear diff packed up I swapped it out with a diff off a disco front axle (already got the 4 bolt flange) and fitted a 200 prop with new UJs, that was about 4 or 5 years ago and other than regular greasing I haven't had to change a UJ on the rear yet...

Going to be a while longer yet Andy, the site is undergoing a ground up rebuild, the coding has started but the chief programmer has decided to mash his fingers up laying a brick wall!

I use Brodit mounts and cradles for my HTC, they do iPhone cradles as well. The mounts are vehicle specific, you can then mount the cradle to this for whatever phone you have. I don't know about the camera on the iPhone cradle but worst case its probably sortable with a drill bit to create a hole!