Ah yes sorry - I was slightly wrong. I knew the late ones were different but I incorrectly assumed they were the same bearings.
im aware that the late ones and the coiled ones all use the same seal, and I’ve used the proper tool as a friend has one.
I always found the leather seals much better on early hubs rather then the modern lipped seals.
I was only talking Steering box. You could probably make the disco column work if you wanted to, just most people use a defender one as it bolts straight on.
Early s2 hubs can easily be identified by the smaller BSF wheel studs. Later ones use the same metric wheel studs as series3 (27mm socket for the wheel nuts), and are to all intents the same as series3 ones. Late series 3 changed slightly as they used the same inner and outer bearing (earlier ones the outer bearing is smaller), but the inner bearing and the seal are both identical.
Yes I have that kit with that switch. The two sides operate independently. Its more than just a switch however as there are bicolour leds in there, plus illumination. Each switch is a momentary, so multiple pushes cycle through off/high/low
Yes. Ran them for more than ten years. No issues other than slight click back through the steering on full lock, which I can easily live with.
i have now converted to CVs and custom HD shafts, but only for reasons of shaft strength. No series shafts stand up to 35” tyres and diff lockers.
Zeus seal kit. Works well as it puts the seal against a different part of the shaft so works around the worn shaft. I had one in mine for years before I did the P38 conversion.
Agree completely! I actually thought he’d made a typo and wanted an LT77. Almost nobody calls them an LT76 and most people will have no clue what you’re asking for. Ask for a series 3 gearbox and you’ll be on to a winner. They are **** though, they break way too easily. I gave up with them years ago - how about just going for an upgrade?