Gazzar

Ah. Can't help with that, sorry.

I wonder if I've given up accuracy for the ability to handle larger stuff. Can't see why, though. And it wasn't expensive, so why not? The previous owner only used it to clean up the inside of thick wall pipe so he could use the pipe as crush tubes in bits he was making. It comes with a 12 inch 4 jaw chuck and a pile of alternative gears.

That's useful, I did think that the quality should change when facing, as I got closer to the centre of the piece.

Looks like an abused version of this http://www.usedmachine.org/en/ad-details/2859/universal-lathe-erdmann-200-37-1500.htm

But inserts are so much easier! I'm being lazy, I suppose, and trying to avoid having to tackle my carp bench grinder. I don't need another project right now. The lathe is fairly old, probably 1950's, German, 1.5 metre bed and 3kw motor. So I think it might be quite capable, for a hobby machine. It has a screw thread gearbox for Whitworth and metric, which I thought unexpected in a German machine. I think you can remove the front bit of the bed for greater access and larger chucks, but I can imagine that's a nightmare to realign on replacement, so I'm staying away. Lots to explore.

Thanks, I see where you are coming from, I think. I find getting the HSS to do what I want difficult, the inserts have worked better so far. Though I might get more HSS and experiment more. Out of curiosity, what is a fast speed? I think my machine goes to nearly 1,200 rpm, according to the gear box plate.

Yes. You need something over the mass as well. I use camping mats. Two layers, different foams. I've a TDI series, and can carry out a conversation with my slightly deaf wife at 50 mph (no overdrive), without shouting. So it does work to an extent. I used flash band. A roofing sealant product.

Because it stops the sound from reaching the windscreen. Single glazed glass is invisible to sound, so best stop it getting beyond the bonnet. Most diesels have under bonnet shielding from the factory, and that wouldn't happen if it wasn't the cheapest way of achieving a result. And Dyna mat is good for stopping sound, because it has mass, which stops sound, according to an aeronautical acoustic engineer I know.

Cool! Are they for steel? Not being gold, and not carbide (I presume). Thanks.

Yep. Though a series gasket might fit. Should be similar stud pattern.

VW, for all their faults, remain quite true to their roots. Cars for ordinary people, I think.

True, and what self respecting jlr main dealer would want to deal with utility vehicle purchasers?

Gerry doesn't hear you. Gerry doesn't care. Big wheels. Chrome. Marketing. Twin tail pipes (square ones). That's what is required.

Any joy?

Don't worry, I knew what you meant!

Center drill! Perfect! A solid centre punch sort of thing for a lathe. I think I'll get one of those. Thank you.

And another: What tool holder should I order to fit these inserts? Are there Chinese versions at quarter the price, but 2/3rds the quality? When I was cutting the CV axles I held the other end in a center. But the piece was turning, the center wasn't. I kept it lubricated, but I'd there a better way?

More questions: How do I use the lathe to drill a hole in a bar? I tried with a drill bit and found it difficult to center the bit.

It spins

I think the rewire, and new trip did the trick. It's running at full speed. 1130, if the motor plate isn't lying. I must buy a tacho gun. I think it's the first in rush that does it. If I run the machine in neutral first I should be fine. I'll think about the drum switch in a bit. I need to scribble some writing diagrams to get my head around it.

I've used these. It's a standard safety razer blade. But the angle is such that the blade only slices the gasket. It works, until the notches wear and you find you have to hold the blade in place.

Why? I agree with you, and if they added reliability and value for money to the mix, it would be a company saviour. But, if their target market doesn't value the ultimate off-road ability (and it doesn't), why would they bother? Most UK supplied 4x4 utilities are sold on looks, BIK, branding and payload. That's what the designers and engineers are told to target, "oh, and make it reasonable off-road, whilst you are at it". It's not the way I'd do it, but I've not turned an ailing sub brand into a fairly successful car company, so I'm not the best person to ask.

Yes, a new drum switch is one option. The challenge is connecting this to the direction lever on the main saddle; this lathe has a lever at the saddle that operates the drum switch at the motor. Which is why I think I've to reconfigure the original drum switch, if I can.

Ah. No. I'm wrong. It's a capacitor start capacitor run motor. This doesn't mean soft start. Right. Two parts to this problem. 1) how do I get the motor to run backwards without having to do those little bus bars. 2) how do I reconfigure the drum switch to standard. I think that if I solve 2, then 1 will follow as then the drum switch becomes the little bars. Fun! For another day.

Better pictures. I need help with this, I think.