Gazzar

I think my drum switch (that's what the forward/reverse switch is called), is not standard. I think I'll do some playing with it, as I see that they CAN be configured for what I want.

But it does have a start capacitor, which should stop the in-rush surge!

The motor, has a six terminal block, with two hard links turning it into 4 terminals. The advice I've seen suggests remove the links, and have two pairs of L&N coming from the direction switch. But I don't think my direction switch gives me that. It just reverses polarity. I think.

I think I need help writing the motor. The lathe has an electrical reverse switch. This has three pairs of terminals. In direction 1, two input terminals connect to the straight opposite output terminals (all four are connected. The third pair also connect straight across. In direction 2, two terminals connect with the diagonally opposite terminals and the third likewise.

Hurrah!

The electrics remain an issue. If I start the lathe cold in high speed, it trips the house supply MCB that takes the power to the workshop. Which is an old school RCD, 30mA, connected to a Henley block to the main isolation switch. It also tripped the workshop CU master, but not it's own circuit breaker. Is that consistent with an in-rush current for a large motor, or something more sinister? I'll swap out the trips this weekend, re-wire the motor connections to the forward/reverse electrical box. I also want to check the society to lathe cable, make sure it's chunky enough, and that I've proper crimped terminals. Fun! Oh, and thanks for the "this old Tony" suggestion, it's very good. I now want a metal shaper and a surface grinder. As well as a mill.

And in truth most buyers will be happy with air and independent suspension, so long as jlr engineer it to a decent standard, which they can. If I was looking for a new serious off-road truck for out of dealership range travel today I'd look at the wrangler Rubicon twice. Second hand it would be a series/90/110 with a TDI. Great to have the choice, isn't it!

Obviously, you will check why it was so tight? And replace the washer? 293959?

(@ discomikey) That's an interesting point. You are right for the first world, and the first and second user. But never underestimate the ability of the average person to neglect anything technical. I've a friend, very intelligent, bright, aware person. Didn't believe me when I insisted that they get their car serviced at 50k miles. For the first time since new. 4 bald tyres and all! We nearly fell out over it. Happy to spend £20k on a car but not £600 on a service two years later.

That's looking mighty fine!

These have viton seals. I could get a few and have one at the lathe, the drill and the benches. http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemDescV4&item=132894360733&category=179462&pm=1&ds=0&t=1545308810000&ver=0&cspheader=1

All great suggestions and useful for larger situations, all I'm looking for is something small, 500ml to a litre, for squirting on bolts, finger trigger. Like a slightly less wasteful can of wd40. There is a little wurth spray bottle that I might try.

I've bought a 5 litre bottle of wd40, and it came with a spray bottle. Which leaks when I use it, the liquid ends up on my hands, as well as where I want it to be. Is there a decent version of these spray bottles about? Or a repair that works for this one? G.

Sell them here.

Do you mean support the wheel box without the seat in place? No, don't think so.

Watch the paint!

Someday. I'll check the levels at the weekend and run it as it is until I get a free weekend to do s full job on it. Might out source to eldest who wants to be an engineer, and insured on the truck.

It's all I can think of. New genuine seals should do the trick, assuming the lands are sound.

I had a quick look when I got back from work and nothing has come out of the hole in the cap. I think that means it's not pushing oil out to the castle nut anymore. If this is so, then it might have been the 5 days of oil running from the axle to the swivel whilst on the rim. Which points the finger at the axle seal. I think.

If you have a long straight edge, and are willing to risk the new paint, lay it along the crease for the waist, and that will soon tell you. Or string would do.

It beats me. That cap was on really tight. I had to tap it on with a hammer, and I suspect it blew off with some violence. The first cap had been on for 6 years of road salt and off road driving, long trips with trailers. I really don't think it just rattled off. Plus there should not have been so much oil on the outside of the drive flange. I'm convinced its pressurising. I could drill a hole in the top of the swivel seal. But I'd rather sort the cause out. I think stripp down and re seal the axle. Then check UJ s and bearings. The diff couldn't cause the half shaft to act as a pump. Could it? I'll run it with the holy cap for a bit.

Wow! Amazing tip. Thanks. I would never have considered that.

Ah. Would that cock the front of the tub up? You've a new chassis, so the bulkhead riggers should be right. It's hard, not impossible, to get the feet of the bulkhead wrong. The rest is fixed, so it has to be the back that's wrong, I think. You might lose the problem by slackening the tub fittings, the bulkhead crossmembers fittings and tightening the roof first, it should compress the seal (genuine?). Then the rest can be tightened. Alignment is a sod of a job.

Sight along the tub at the top of the curve, see if it lines up with the same curve on the bulkhead.

Did you raise the rear tub at all? New cross braces?