Gazzar

It was snowing. And I had to get the truck back on the road that day. Long job.

I've done this repair, made my own. It's a sod of a job, but worth doing.

Umm. That's difficult to answer. It's easily 50 years old. Large body, 60 hp engine, low gearing. Not fast. 50 year old engine? Not likely to be faster. Plus drum brakes, steering box and relay, 6 ball joints, etc. Very different driving experience. Think 1930's bus.

Not on my truck, but on my sister's. We're re commissioning her series three, 3 bearing petrol. After the usual popping and farting from lying up it started running quite well. But the rad cap is leaking, and not bleeding down to the expansion vessel. Aside from the obvious, new cap, what else could be wrong?

2 Glow plugs look too clean. Any coolant loss?

The TDI isn't a standard engine for a series, so the Glow plug arrangement that the retro fitter followed would be unknown to the replacement loom maker. The series diesel had the glow plug resistor on the bulkhead, it's probable that they followed the original arrangement. Presuming, of course, that you didn't commission and design a specific adaption to the standard loom.

Photo them. Tidy up with Photoshop, or similar. Print and laminate. ?

This piece? (4)?

Are you saying the last 20 years of defender production were without serious wrinkles? Interesting.

The coffee table idea. I think a garden table might work. For now, despite the temptation to break out the spanners, it will be ignored. I might dump some burned engine oil into it, with a few litres of kero as company. It's a 251 suffix, 2a, 7:1 ratio head.

You sure? Maybe that's where I was going wrong. . . . . ..

You've not seen the cam! Honestly, I don't know what I'll do with it. If I could dunk it in a drum of diesel for six months, I would. It might just be sprayed with wax and pallet wrapped, and "lost". Still, better that than melted down. I wonder why it was dumped.

Coat every thing, then blast as much cavity wax in there as you can, I like bilt hambler(?) aerosols, Dynax 50, is good. Landrover have the panel a quick breathe of primer, then an economic whiff of top coat.

The family went for a walk in the forest to see the bluebells on the last back holiday weekend. Lovely. I found a series engine. So, having followed the correct procedure, I've brought it home. It's scrap, but I might some useful bits from it.

Unleaded petrol? I think a lot of the components swap over, but you may have issues with metric and imperial threads.

Not exactly what you want, but if you cut the panel in half, you could squeeze a d din panel in, possibly?https://www.bits4landys.co.uk/series/dash/switch-panels.htm

It's not difficult, IF the software and hardware for the car systems is available. But, unless they outsourced the manufacturing of the diagnostic box to China, this is usually difficult or impossible to get. So the owner is fighting uphill to service their own kit.

It's all right, think how the Austin mini evolved into the BMW mini. This looks like a Peugeot defender. It will meet the emissions regs, drive like a car, pull a trailer, cope with trails. And last as long as the warranty. Job done, I'd say.

It's to be expected, I suppose. They don't know any better.

You see that a lot, especially overseas.

I think the next job will be to make some wheel spacers. The disks on the lightweight are thicker than the drums, so the rear wheels are a few mm further inboard than the front. I think I'll turn down some old drums to shim the wheels out. A few mm. I've already got longer studs, so it will be fine.

Also, check the earths. G.

I'd leave the standard transfer box sump on. LT230 transfer boxes are stronger than overdrives.

Coming along nicely!

No success. Different company. Very polite people though. Anyway, I've pumped oil in everywhere. In most places it just goes in and flushes out the grey/brown stuff. But in some places the oil doesn't go in, it gets spat out. I'm assuming this means that I've to engage that lever before the oil can go in, or something. It's made a difference, the main saddle is quieter to move. And the slides feel, slicker, I suppose. I've also figured out why the main saddle has a 'skip', it's the rack bolted under the bed, as the gear moves from section to section, there's a miss beat, almost, that I feel through the wheel. Perceptible, but not an issue, and, since I've oiled the gear, nearly gone. I've still not looked at the drum switch yet. Time is precious. I'll get to it.