BogMonster

I would never ever take the fan off a V8. The reason you can get away with it on a Tdi is because they are vastly over-cooled, i.e. the radiator is much bigger than the engine really needs, which is one reason it takes a week for them to warm up during the winter and you can run a rad even with most of the fins rotted out! A V8 produces much more heat (witness the fact it warms up very quickly) and doesn't have the same excess of cooling.

Merry Christmas from the Deep South

I have my LED Lenser police torch now and very impressed, much better than my 2 cell Maglite and a fraction of the size. Amazing how technology moves on Not many local Tescos here

No your heater was putting too much air pressure down the wires which forced the smoke out the ends

I asked this question a while ago and the local propane supplier told me their 45kg propane bottles were rated for 10 bar IIRC, which would have been OK for my compressor as that is 115psi max (8 bar approx). I never got around to going and getting a bottle though, still a "round tuit" job

If it's a good vehicle otherwise I would try and find another engine from a crashed one or something, it isn't difficult to fit a different 300Tdi engine to it

Get a 32mm spanner, undo large nut on viscous hub, take off fan, very simple

Absolutely - most would F off over the horizon and never be seen again. I have no direct interest but it seems to me to be a very honourable way of winding up the business rather than just saying sorry write to the liquidators as most would do!

A green box with "Lucas 10AS" on it is the alarm ECU. I think you've got a problem with the ECU as once it is disarmed it shouldn't rearm itself again even if the power is interrupted e.g. by a bad connection. Is it a beep beep horn type alarm or the wailing BBUS alarm down inside the left hand front wing? If its the BBUS then best thing is to take it out and dump it as they are a pain in the @r5e

I've got AT2s on my Ranger and BFGs on my Discovery and while it isn't a direct comparison I would if anything say that I prefer the AT2s and that will certainly be the direction I lean in when I eventually need replacements for the Discovery, which will be a long time yet as it spends most of its time in the garage!

In the case of a UJ - usually days only then there is an expensive and often dangerous bang and you need a new propshaft, and sometimes exhaust/floor etc!

I think you should rig up a headlight washer pump with some nozzles pointing at the pedals

Later vehicles didn't have the problem though (1997 model year ones were fine, we've got one at work) they changed something in the spec I guess Mine was done under warranty but then my dealer is a fine upstanding chap

I was being too polite to say that

If it is clicking I would think the gears are probably stripped

In most countries they are as follows: HA is 1991 JA 92 KA 93 LA 94 (last of the 200Tdis) MA 95 (first of the 300Tdis were MA...) TA 96 VA 97 WA 98 XA 99 YA 2000 1A 2001 2A 2002 and so on - 3A 4A 5A 6A etc. Bear in mind it is MODEL year not calendar year, model years run ahead of calendar years mostly starting in about September but sometimes earlier e.g. the first MA's were built in about March or April 1994! NAS vehicles are different vin number format as you already know and I don't have full details for those. Best bet is to post up details of what bits you need for the engine and we will see what we can do. Also check out the Calvin vin decoder http://www.clifton.nl/index.html?calvin.html A UK/ROW vin number for a 1997 300Tdi Discovery would look like SALLJGMF7VA750000

Got a photo FF?

You can sort of see it in the attached, basically on the non airbag dash, the material that the dash is made up of continues into the bottom of the hole HTH

The hole in an airbag dash is in the back of the space as well as in the bottom FF, so it will look horrible and it won't be covered by the mat. Crown, the non airbag dash is a completely different dash unit without the space for the bag. Amazingly Google has completely failed to find an image of a non airbag dash and mine is at the wrong house at the moment so I can't take a photo. You have two options, change the whole dash (which isn't as hard as it sounds - I've done one and it took me about five hours) IF you can find one (probably unlikely nowadays) or try and make something to cover it up.

Firstly I really don't think you can change the gears in situ, I am pretty certain the intermediate cluster is a gearbox out job. IMHO it boils down to your current transfer box. If it is good, quiet and tight, keep it, because if you get a used one it might be none or only some of those three things. If it is a bit iffy, change the box.

I believe you can get one from Bearmach though I don't have my BM accessory catalogue here at the moment

Even if you find one it might not work.... see here http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=33227

Also they squeal deliciously when you swerve or boot it hard out of a corner in a 2WD pickup, not that I would do either you understand

Valve stem seals are another possibility I think

That's what you get for putting a set of girly tyres on a Discovery